Pops and bags misfire 4000-6000rpm

[Gary in NJ]

Both of those wires go to the main switch. The red is 12V (unswitched) from the battery/main fuse to the switch and the orange with the black trace is 12V (switched) from the switch to all electronics on the bike. Neither should be outside of the harness. If they are outside the harness you might have a little fuckery going on with your wiring from a previous owner.

Check the wires for and signs of rubbing where the insulation is missing, and check the connectors at both ends for corrosion.

 

[AkifLed69]

My brothers and my angels my bike is running right now!
I use the ignition coil1 cable to 2 and 2 to 1 and the engine is running right now.
I will build the bike and test for some misfires.
Thanks for now guys I will write after few Hours.
I didn't drive for a long time FML I forgot to drive

 

[Gary in NJ]

That's great news. When I suggested that you check the coil leads in post #26, I should have been clear that the orange/black wire goes to cylinders 1 & 4 and the red/black wire goes to 2 & 3. I'm sorry for not being clear.

 

[AkifLed69]

Guys, thank you very much. I took my slippers for a test drive, it was fun. I'm taking a shower because I smell like gasoline (BP 98) lol. I will text you guys after few happy miles

 

[AkifLed69]

Guys, thank you very much. I took my slippers for a test drive, it was fun. I'm taking a shower because I smell like gasoline (BP 98) lol. I will text you guys after few happy miles

Hi guys i got the rev limmeter on cant go faster the. 4000rpm. My father prayed so I cant go fast lol.
I wil buy a transparant fuel line so i can see of i have problems with my fuel pump. I have a new one from China but I dont trust it. I drove 50km I haven't driven this well for a long time and that's why I'm afraid I've messed it up

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I believe the stock fuel lines have specific ends (special clip style) on them for the higher than gravity fuel pressure
(I think about 60 PSI).

Splicing in a "new" line may be hazardous to your health...

Checking the fuel rail pressure would be much easier, (with the correct tool), and accurate.

.

 

[AkifLed69]

Hi guys the throttlebody and injectors are clean i put some injectioncleaner and drove 30miles and the problem came back on the way to home... I bought used ignition coils but i got the same problem. :'(

 

[Gary in NJ]

How many miles are on this bike? I'm starting to suspect the fuel injectors themselves. They may be due for an overhaul.

 

[AkifLed69]

14291 miles but!!!!!! I saw something on diagnostic mode. The battery shows while priming 11v see picture!
And battery self is 12.3v. i put them on the battery charger we wil pray and try tomorrow again

 

[Gary in NJ]

At 14k miles it’s not the injectors. Hopefully it’s just a battery. One you get it started and warmed up, check the voltage at the terminals at idle and 5000 rpm to confirm that your charging system is working

 

[AkifLed69]

At 14k miles it’s not the injectors. Hopefully it’s just a battery. One you get it started and warmed up, check the voltage at the terminals at idle and 5000 rpm to confirm that your charging system is working

It blocks are 4k rpm sometimes of i have slowly throttle it wil go higher.
Weird issue.

 

[AkifLed69]

H i guys bad news.
It worked for few miles and it blocks again around 4k 5k rpm. I tried to drive back to home and it fall down to 2 cilinders got code 33.
I changed the ignition coils but it does the work so i test the sparkplug to check for spark but no spark. The 12v carlight tester works fine on the greyw wire i see some minus voltage but on the. Orange wire (other ignition coils) gives no response. In done. If you guys have any answer for my issue please reply me. Btw i checked the battery charging and it was 12.3 on 3 4 k rpm around 13v ( 2 cilinder)

 

[Gary in NJ]

The Red/Black wires are the 12V lead wires. These should always be hot with the ignition key in the ON position. The Gray/Black (Cylinder 1 & 4) and Orange/Black (Cylinder 2 & 3) are the ignition trigger wires from the ECU. You would need an oscilloscope to read the square wave signals from these wire leads.

Your charging system isn't properly functioning. Even operating on two cylinders the system should be putting out over 13VDC at idle and over 14VDC at rpms above 5000. This likely is the root problem - but even if it isn't it must be addressed before you can move on to any other trouble shooting. The first step is to charge the battery to 12.8VDC and then make sure it is able to hold that charge to within 0.2VDC (12.6VDC) after 12 or so hours after being removed from the charger. While the battery is charging I would also check the connectors between the stator and the regulator/rectifier for signs of burnt wires and pins. Next you need to check for any continuity between any of the 3 stator legs. After you have a healthy battery installed you need to start the bike and identify if the stator has adequate AC voltage (about 80VAC @ 5k rpm on all three legs). If this checks out you can check the diodes in the regulator/rectifier.

 

[Cocoloco]

Have you tried testing the plug caps?
It should be at 9-10K ohms
Or tired cleaning every connectors and ground of the bike
I picked up another FZ6 for a customer with severe misfire
I measured the sparkplug caps 2 was way out of spec.
TB cleaning and synching
New sparkplugs NGK iridiums and fuel filter and she's good to go

Now i want to change my denso iridium plugs with NGKs much smoother throttle feel