Possible coolant hose leak...

[vb7prog]

I have a leak at the end of the hose indicated in the attached pictures. What happens is when I start the bike it drips for a minute or so, then I imagine the heat causes expansion and the leak seals itself when the bike is hot. The leak drips out brownish water, so I fear there may be some corrosion in the cooling system.

1. What is the part number for this hose? I tried to look it up but couldn't be certain if I had located the correct part number. Possibly also, what is the hose referred to casually as ?

2. What is the function of the hose, Pretty sure its from the coolant system, but want to verify it brings coolant from x to y or such.

My plan is to replace the hose myself and top off coolant system with water then probably take it to shop for coolant flush with 50/50 AF and water.

Any other comments / suggestions ?

Thanks

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I have a leak at the end of the hose indicated in the attached pictures. What happens is when I start the bike it drips for a minute or so, then I imagine the heat causes expansion and the leak seals itself when the bike is hot. The leak drips out brownish water, so I fear there may be some corrosion in the cooling system.

1. What is the part number for this hose? I tried to look it up but couldn't be certain if I had located the correct part number. Possibly also, what is the hose referred to casually as ?

2. What is the function of the hose, Pretty sure its from the coolant system, but want to verify it brings coolant from x to y or such.

My plan is to replace the hose myself and top off coolant system with water then probably take it to shop for coolant flush with 50/50 AF and water.

Any other comments / suggestions ?

Thanks

Welcome to the forum!

Its just a lower coolant hose. Most likely, the clamp loosened up over time, maybe some corrosion under the hose. I doubt the hose is bad, if any thing, the tube it attached to may have some pitting. Most times, you can just scruff the corrosion off, clean the inside of the hose and just tighten it back up.

IMO, its very easy to fix your issue and flush the coolant system with new coolant. I use Prestone 50/50 pre-mixed coolant, you can't screw up the mixture.

Pull that hose off after loosening the clamp (its likely loose already) and coolant WILL flow out QUICKLY. Once thats off, clean up the hose, inspect what it clamps to and clean off any corrosion.

An easy short cut for the flush, pull the larger hose off (same clamp) off at the water pump by your rt foot peg. Remove the
radiator lock and cap and flush with water.

Also, clean/ rinse off real good the cap.

If there's a bunch of brown in there, you can replace all the hoses, fill with water and go for a short ride. Let it cool down and drain again.

You should also flush out/dump the fluid in the overflow tank.

With everything buttoned up but the cap, re-fill with your coolant on the side stand. Start the engine, once it warms, it'll take a little more coolant. Put the cap back on (not the locking nut yet) and go for a ride and get it to temp. Let it cool fully down and re-check/top off the radiator and overflow tank. There is NO other bleeding to the system.

Pay attention to the locking(bolt) radiator cap, how it attaches.

$10.00 worth of coolant and some time, your good to go and just saved a small fortune from going to the shop. They likely wouldn't have done as good a job flushing either..

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Also, this parts supplier has pretty good parts fish' to look up parts:


Partzilla.com - OEM Powersports Parts from Honda, Kawasaki Polaris, Suzuki and Yamaha at discounts up to 80% off MSRP


Your coolant system:

Yamaha Motorcycle Parts 2004 FZ6 - FZ600SS RADIATOR HOSE Diagram



Actually, this is where that part is (with the smaller line braching off), listed with the water pump(part #14), second picture:

Yamaha Motorcycle Parts 2004 FZ6 - FZ600SS WATER PUMP Diagram
Double click to enlarge the pic...

 

[iSteve]

You know you may just want to snug up the hose clamp see if the leak goes away.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

You know you may just want to snug up the hose clamp see if the leak goes away.

That would probably fix the leak by itself (I'll go over my hose clamps maybe once a year and re-snug them up).

I think he was looking at, besides fixing it, getting the coolant system flushed/maintained at the shop, especially with the brown coolant.

Its a pretty simple operation (you probably already know that, he doesn't), just posting some options as requested. :thumbup:

 

[vb7prog]

Thanks for all the advice.

FYI, I did tighten the clamp as much as possible, but it still leaked, I will try cleaning it as suggested see if the hose is recoverable or needs replacement.

 

[vb7prog]

Ok. So I got this figured out now.

It was a pin hole leak in water pump "Joint, Hose 1" #14. It was on the backside and only when it was removed it could be observed. I have ordered a replacement and am using duck tape on it as a temporary fix (seems to be working ?)

The bike won't turn over after the coolant flush and refill with water. The bike has been siting for 48 hours without being ridden. I have been starting the bike quite a few times (probably 6 or 7) to test the leaking. I keep my high beams on most of the time (day riding only). It cranks nice but wont start up. I don't have any accessories that would drain the battery. Any thoughts ?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Ok. So I got this figured out now.

It was a pin hole leak in water pump "Joint, Hose 1" #14. It was on the backside and only when it was removed it could be observed. I have ordered a replacement and am using duck tape on it as a temporary fix (seems to be working ?)

The bike won't turn over after the coolant flush and refill with water. The bike has been siting for 48 hours without being ridden. I have been starting the bike quite a few times (probably 6 or 7) to test the leaking. I keep my high beams on most of the time (day riding only). It cranks nice but wont start up. I don't have any accessories that would drain the battery. Any thoughts ?

Figured they'd be corrosion there, cheap and easy enough fix..

You contradict yourself in the above post. Besides the duct tape (not an issue), you say your started it several times but it doesn't run...??

Starting time after time, your pulliing MORE from the battery, then your putting back into it (draining it).

If the battery died after 48 hours with the on / off checking, your battery is likley on its last legs. How old is it? Over 3 years?

If mechainically able to, check your Yamaha shop manual, raise the fuel tank and gain access to the battery. If you have a voltmeter, check voltage. It should be about 12.8 sitting there. Cranking, it shouldn't drop beow 10 volts but will start as low as 8 volts. Engine running, at about 3,000 RPM, you should see close to 14 volts (the bikes charging system is working)

The best way to determine if the battery is good is charge it fully, then get it LOAD TESTED. Most auto parts stores will check it for free (its likely toast).

You CAN jump start the bike (to confirm its the battery) from a 12 volt auto battery with the car battery, car NOT RUNNING. **(If the car is running you'll cause other issues)**.

With the extra power from the jumper battery, it should spin over faster and START up.

You need a certain amount of electrical power to run the ignition, fuel pump, etc. If your dash lights dim while cranking (engine spinning over-NOT running), its a sign of a weak battery as well..

Please post your results and good luck..

 

[vb7prog]

Ok. Electrical System is good now. Battery may be weak, but alternator seems sufficient to keep up with battery for the time being and it has no issue starting up on command. I will monitor the battery and replace if necessary.


Waiting for the replacement part to ship. The duct tape method sorta worked (for very short trips). My first go with duct tape I underestimated the pressure and heat that the coolant system would put out, I wrapped it with only about 4 inches of duct tape. It did hold for the commute (constant dripping that got worse and worse(17 minutes), but by the time I got to work it was really coming out.

I then wait for it to cool, Wrapped it with a ton of duct tape very tightly and overlapping sections. This held much better, I was able to make it home (25 minute commute) and only at the end did it start to come out, but it was fairly non dripping until the end. I feel I could drive on this bike for short trips, but don't want to risk anything else.

I would only recommend duct tape if you were stranded in the middle of nowhere and you needed to go no more than 30 miles. Otherwise, get it repaired properly.

Waiting on part.
Swap in new part.
Flush a few times.
Add Prestone 50/50 mix.
Should be good to go in about a week.

 

[FinalImpact]

50/50 mix....
Up front im being lazy by not turning on the PC to find the total system capacity, but here's my point: lets say it holds 3 liters and you can only get 2 out. And if you just flushed with mostly water that means your 50/50 is now dilluted. In climates that don't freeze, no big deal, but if the freeze point matters, measure what comes out. Now you know how much you can get back in. If its 90%, your likely fine but much less and id stay away from pre-mix and measure what comes out and mix yourself by dividing the removed content in half.
Granted this may not apply to the FZ but may be more applicable in other places....

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Agreed to the above but being in southern Ca, you'd likely be ok.

Last coolant change I did on mine, it was pretty clean, so no flushing was necessary (so it kept a 50/50 mix).

The system doesn't take much and you can easily get two changes out of one gallon of coolant.

IMO, once the leak is fixed, fill with 50/50 AGAIN, ride awhile, then drain and re-fill with fresh coolant. The coolant does help lubricate the seals. You'll be good for a couple of years...

 

[tejkowskit]

You be able to get mostly all of the coolant out of the system out as the drain bolt is pretty much at the lowest point of the system. Carefully rocking the bike back onto the rear wheel while on the center stand should get the last few drops out of the hoses that are angled forward.

Radiator will take 2.0L
Reservoir holds 0.27L at the full marking

 

[yamihoe]

+1 on everyone and to add to scott's list of great parts explosions/diagrams:
Chaparral Motorsports - Motorcycle Parts and Motorcycle Gear

make sure and replace the clamps on the hose when you get it, for the extra $2 its worth it to have a new one.

 

[vb7prog]

Thanks everyone for all the help. I was able to install the new joint, flush the system and now the cooling system won't be subject to so much abuse (previous owner probably used tap water ;(

The battery issue has not reoccurred, but I will keep my eye on it. Thanks everyone. I feel like a master mechanic of my motorcycle cooling system now.