Question about throttle - stop throttle cable

vrtulnik

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Hello,


When I bought my FZ6 S2 2008, I increase idle RPM by screw for stop "cradle" throttle cable. (see photo). I don't know whether it is good solution. I will be glad if you tell me how difference is between setting "stop screw" and original setting screw for idle RPM. (see second photo)

I hope you understand me. Thank you very much

klapka.jpg

IMG_0345.jpg
 

Motogiro

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:welcome: to our great forum!

In the first photo the adjustment is for the mechanical throttle plate position. This setting should never need adjustment. If you adjust the throttle plates you will also be changing the throttle position sensor (TPS) setting. If you have adjusted this, put it back to original setting.

In the second photo is the proper Idle adjustment screw. It adjusts the idle via the idle air adjustment assemble.
 

vrtulnik

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:welcome: to our great forum!

In the first photo the adjustment is for the mechanical throttle plate position. This setting should never need adjustment. If you adjust the throttle plates you will also be changing the throttle position sensor (TPS) setting. If you have adjusted this, put it back to original setting.

In the second photo is the proper Idle adjustment screw. It adjusts the idle via the idle air adjustment assemble.


Thank you for helpful answer.

Yes, I moved with screw for mechanical throttle plate position. Now I don't know how it was set. I see white coat on screw, so it will be helpfull for me, how it was set. Maybe it will not exact set as it was before... will it affect anything?

What happens if it stays in this position how I set it? Is it bad for motor, fuel consumption?
 

Motogiro

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Thank you for helpful answer.

Yes, I moved with screw for mechanical throttle plate position. Now I don't know how it was set. I see white coat on screw, so it will be helpfull for me, how it was set. Maybe it will not exact set as it was before... will it affect anything?

What happens if it stays in this position how I set it? Is it bad for motor, fuel consumption?

If you set the screw back to where the paint mark is you should be able to get it very close to the original setting. Then set your idle from the proper idle screw to get near 1300 rpm.
 

vrtulnik

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When I set back to paint mark it was space approx. 1-2 mm between cradle and screw. (see photo)

I tried set idle rpm by proper screw , but I didn't get more than 1000 rpm. When I turned screw anti-clockwise I decreased rpm.

So I set approx. 1200 rpm by screw for mechanical throttle plate position... I hope that will be okay.

IMG_0354.jpg
 

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TownsendsFJR1300

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When I set back to paint mark it was space approx. 1-2 mm between cradle and screw. (see photo)

I tried set idle rpm by proper screw , but I didn't get more than 1000 rpm. When I turned screw anti-clockwise I decreased rpm.

So I set approx. 1200 rpm by screw for mechanical throttle plate position... I hope that will be okay.

View attachment 69816

As already noted, that screw should NOT be adjusted-It is NOT an idle adjustment screw.

Idle is adjusted by the large "star" screw.

Your by-passing passages-basically holding the throttle cable/throttle open by hand.


With that now out of adjustment, you need someone with a TB synchronizer and do a PROPER throttle body sync.
They should be able to get the now mis-adjusted screw close to where it belongs. **Checking the TPS #'s thru the dash gauge and adjusting that screw stop to get the lower TPS # about 16 should get you there..

With the synchronizer, the air screws (to sync all the TB's evenly) can be adjusted and the "base screw" opened up 1/8"-1/4" turn to get the idle adjustment up along with the RPMs.

(I suspect all this is way above your mechanical level so you might want to find a shop familiar with it)..

BTW, Do you have the owners manual for the bike? The idle adjustment is in there.


If you need the owners manual, PM me with the year bike and an e-mail address and I'll send a PDF copy of it to you..


Adjusting other screws hap-hazardly isn't good.
It can be adjusted correctly with the proper tool, following the shop manual, and information in shop manual..
 
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vrtulnik

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As already noted, that screw should NOT be adjusted-It is NOT an idle adjustment screw.

Idle is adjusted by the large "star" screw.

Your by-passing passages-basically holding the throttle cable/throttle open by hand.

They should be able to get the now mis-adjusted screw close to where it belongs. **Checking the TPS #'s thru the dash gauge and adjusting that screw stop to get the lower TPS # about 16 should get you there.. .

Do you mean this? Diagnostic code 01? I must value 16 when handle is released, respectively throttle is closed?
Snímka obrazovky 2019-06-23 o 9.21.34.jpg

My bad that I adjusted wrong screw. :/


EDIT:// So, I tried check value of "d:01" and result is 20. I can not reach less result. Throttle position seems fully closed, but I have value 20... Is it possible???
Btw, Fully open is 102
 

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TownsendsFJR1300

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The 102 is fine (a little high), the 20 is a little high as well.

If the blades are fully closed, obviously it can't close anymore. The TPS can be slightly out of adjustment-NOT bad, I wouldn't mess with it

NOTE, we're using the TPS to try and get and get us back to the starting point (before that screw was adjusted).


How is the idle NOW, still too low??? Even with the STAR SCREW turned in fully?



If so, you need a sync tool and follow instructions on page 3-7 Yamaha service manual:





IF YOU CANNOT get more adjustment (to raise the idle), **OPEN the BASE SCREW about 1/4 turn**. This will allow you to turn out the Star Screw and STILL get the correct idle.


Pic of mine after a valve adjustment and throttle sync:



(I use a Morgan Carbtune tool- no liquids, no adjustments to the tool, relatively inexpensive and easy to use)


ADMIN-sync pic expires in 7 days
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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BTW,

The 20 and 102 is basically about "2" points higher than spec's. The computer now thinks the throttle is slightly open with the handlebar throttle. Again, don't mess with it until the sync base screw (if needed, is opened 1/4 turn ((CC)) and a sync done.

So adjusting the TPS down 2 would bring you to 18 & 100

You can snug down the lock nut on the "throttle stop screw" at this point, and shouldn't have to mess with it..


*As a side note, my old FJR was set extremely lean (surging)from the factory at about 3,000 RPM's. Mama Yamaha had techs (under warranty), adjust the TPS up to 110 on the top end to RICHEN up the mix...
 
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vrtulnik

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Thank you very much for reply.

This is already more difficult for me. I will have to let it to technicians... I don't want to destroy it even more. I hope the technicians will advise me and set throttle to normal values.


When I bought my FZ6 idle rpm was 700. When I increased rpm to approx. 3000-4000 and then released handlebar, motor died. So I moved "stop screw" until I reached 1300 rpm...

By STAR screw I can not increase idle rpm, only until 1000. I can only decrease. I tried fully turn in (clockwise) this screw, but without results... only 1000 rpm

What consequences can have a poorly set throttle ?
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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Someone's definitly been in there "dinking around" and screwed the settings up...

It should be set at 1300, I keep mine at 1,100. 700 Is way too low obviously and I'm surprised it would idle at all.

With an idle that low, I'd be very concerned about LOW OIL PRESSURE to the rest of the engine.


Once the throttle body sync screws are corrected, (with the tool), getting the idle up isn't a problem and the idle (star screw) will work as designed..

Again, depending on the experience of your mechanic, turning that BASE SCREW out will allow FULL adjustment of the idle screw.

With that said, we don't know what they adjusted, and how far out (from spec's) those adjusters, TPS, etc is out...

**Not in the manual but if starting a sync from scratch(all the screws are really out of adjustment), lightly seat the 4 adjustment screws, then turn outward(CC) about 7/8 turn outward. That will get you in the ball park and fine adjustments can be made after that..
 
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