R6 Cams, Head gasket, headers, here we go

[I JET]

The time has come, I've been wanting to tackle this project for a long time. To many personal road blocks meant the cup bike has sat in storage for the past 3 years. I've recently starting prepping the bike. I want to get back to regular track days.

The last time I posted, I had test fit the R6 headers and was looking at link pipe options. Luckily I was able to use the GYTR undertail muffler turned on its side and a section of the GYTR mid pipe to make up the link.. You can see I have started to make a template for the muffler hanger (progress)

I purchased the R6 cams from a member on here a few years back.

They came with these new YEC cam gears.

New head gasket for a 2003-2005 R6. Part no. 5SL-11181-00-00.
The R6 head gasket is thinner and will raise the compression ratio from 12.1 to 12.4

From what I've researched, this has been done before, the cam swap at least. The results sounded promising but also read some complaints of a flat spot in the rev range. Without proper fuel mapping its hard to say for sure what the issue was in those cases. People will always argue to just buy an R6 to start with but for me this is more of a hobby.

My method of attacking this will be:

1. Strip down and measure current valve clearances
2. Remove stock cams, remove head, replace head gasket
3. Install head, install R6 cams and set to standard timing marks
4. Re-measure valve clearances and adjust if necessary to R6 spec
5. Degree cam shafts to 102° ILC and 105°ELC (open to suggestions here and very much still researching but from what I've read this appears to be a good starting point)
6. Re-assembly and test run engine
7. Advance timing via trigger wheel modification (thanks final impact) 5-6° advanced over stock seems to be the sweet spot
8. Custom fuel map

At some point in there i'll be doing oil, filter and plugs, still need to decide still on which spark plugs to use, CR10EK or CR10E.
I do have some ideas for improving the air intake tract but they will come later on.
Will update thread as things progress.

DYNO Results --> https://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-performance-mods-section/57922-r6-cams-head-gasket-headers-here-we-go-3.html#post636645

Converted back to Street bike --> https://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-performance-mods-section/57922-r6-cams-head-gasket-headers-here-we-go-4.html#post637841

 

[bigborer]

Bike looks very good in that color combo.
About the cams, why not fit adjustable sprockets?

 

[I JET]

At first I thought they were adjustable but after reading the YEC manual it states 'by making the assembly holes of the cam sprocket long, valve timing can be adjusted' So by elongating the holes they become adjustable.

From the YEC manual-

 

[FinalImpact]

Good to hear from you again...
That extra compression also takes away valve clearance moving them closer to the pistons. One concern here is with the added lift of the intake lobe you have lost more clearance which is not a show stopper but needs verified.
Likely the only time you would get into trouble is missed shift where the valves could float.

Rig up a dial indicator to both pairs of valves (separately) and verify how much clearance you have at TDC by pushing the stem down with your hand until it hits the piston. Without looking IDR the number but it seemed 0.040" or something like that.

I would check the intake and exhaust before tear down.

Also, with the head off, take few minutes and massage the intake port at the TB for smooth transition. The intake passage doesn't need to be larger or polished, just aligned and free of bumps imposing a reversion. The exhaust you could polish, it can reduce heat transfer into the head.

As for the ignition advance, as simple as it is, it will make wake the engine up. Obviously you'll use the higher grade of petrol (likely doing that now)... All of these combined should make her pull pretty well! She won't seem like the same bike.

The tracks you run, do you get into tight corners, below 3rd gear?

 

[I JET]

Thanks for the tips [MENTION=15974]FinalImpact[/MENTION].
Will check valve to piston clearance before and after as you recommended and report back. Given the same components make up the R6 donk, I agree it should not be a show stopper but worth confirming.

Will also spend some time dressing up the ports as you said, I've seen first hand how far off the transition can be to the manifolds.

As for the ignition timing, correct, already using 98 RON pump fuel from Shell or BP which is our highest readily available premium pump fuel. Just ordered a set of CR10E plugs too.
There's currently two local tracks, I have gearing to suit both. The slower, tighter track has only one low speed 2nd gear corner (60kph), the rest is pretty flowing.

 

[I JET]

Progress

 

[I JET]

Just stopped now for lunch. By end of today I plan to have the head back on, new cams in and timed up to standard marks. Tomorrow I'll check the valve clearances and begin degreeing the cams.

 

[I JET]

 

[I JET]

Didn't quite get there today, new head gasket on, Head on and torqued down, cam chain and guides back in ready to receive cams. Will continue with it tomorrow. Over all the cylinder bores look very good and all the valve clearances were within spec. The bike had 2600kms on the clock when I got it but I thought the speedo had been changed, starting to think the kms were accurate.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

What's that big round thing under the intake by cylinders 1 & 2? I don't remember seeing that on an FZ head....

How are you going to check valve to piston gap (with valves OPEN), Silly putty, ?


BTW, the top of the engine looks really good, Very little carbon, crosshatching looks great..


.

 

[I JET]

Pretty sure it's the thermostat housing, I'll have a closer look today.

Will measure the valve to piston clearance at tdc using a dial indicator then do the math using the cam specs. I won't be going mad with the cam timing.

I was pleasantly surprised with the condition of the cylinder bores. This has been a race bike since new so basically ridden flat out it's whole life.

 

[I JET]

R6 Cams went in, torqued down, timing chain on, everything lined up perfectly, turned over nicely, checked valve clearances, all but 2 are within spec, will need to get shims during the week before I go any further. Another delay but I'd rather take my time with it, till next weekend. Tried out the manual cam tensioner, so far so good, made it super easy to get everything back together and lined up.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Pretty sure it's the thermostat housing, I'll have a closer look today.

Will measure the valve to piston clearance at tdc using a dial indicator then do the math using the cam specs. I won't be going mad with the cam timing.

I was pleasantly surprised with the condition of the cylinder bores. This has been a race bike since new so basically ridden flat out it's whole life.

Yes it is, didn't see the hose hook up.

Yamaha Motorcycle Parts 2007 FZ6 - FZS6W RADIATOR HOSE Diagram

 

[FinalImpact]

Proof that RPM and Velocity do an engine good keeping it clean....

What are the yec cam options +/-4°?? IDR....

As for valve to piston clearance, had it been checked before tear down, you would know the safe place.
Now you have the same numbers minus head gasket thickness...

Just put it on TDC, zero a dial indicator on the intake for example and press the valve down until it hits the piston.
The cams can be OUT for this too.
Now you have your clearance.

As for running R6 specs; IIRC they are tighter. This is good as valve timing will be more precise.

Its kinda late now, but any chance you put a degree wheel on the crank for stock cam timing?

Let us know what your options are with R6 yec spec parts.
If dialed to 102/105 and ignition advanced, you should be happy. Oh - any port clean up?

 

[I JET]

Yec manual states adjustable from -2° to +6°. It's also states to slot the holes to make them adjustable, which could be done on the stock gears also.

I didn't bother measuring before the tear down, I'm more concerned with the final result, will defenately measure before i go moving the cams.

You're correct the r6 clearances are tighter, but 2 valves were still way too tight, the rest were all within spec, inlet all near the tighter end, exhaust all near the higher end, similar as with the fz6 cams.

also I didn't degree check the fz6 cams, again more focused on the r6 cams.

I did dress up the intake ports near the transition from the throttle body, there was a slight misalignment and also some very minor casting ridges running down the side of each port. Exhaust ports looked pretty good.

Degreeging cams is all new to me, first time I've dabbled with it. I've parked it until next weekend for now, I need to swap some shims anyway before I proceed. I appreciate your input [MENTION=15974]FinalImpact[/MENTION] and also [MENTION=16666]Marthy[/MENTION], I've been reading over alot of his posts regarding cam timing.
You believe 102/105 will be a good starting point, any idea what the 2003-2005 r6 standard cam spec is? ILC / ELC. Working off some specs online I can see 105/106 but unsure if thats at all accurate.

 

[FinalImpact]

The numbers you seek are likely not the same for everyone as flow is a huge factor. But I'd say start there.

I.e. degree wheel on crank, dial indicator on piston top, determine EXACT TDC and zero your wheel. Now with D/I on the intake determine when it opens and when its closed. Many use the 1mm number for off the seat reference. Whatever you use, it doesnt matter as you still get the same lobe center. That said, using the number the cam is spec'd with will give you the correct duration value matching the cam.

Old school American V8 we used recored events as lift at 0.050"...

Once you dial these in and advance the ignition, get the fueling dialed it should rocket from 6k on up.
Looking forward to final grin factor!

 

[I JET]

Well, the cams are in, degreed, clearances set, its back together and running and it sounds great, purrs like a kitten. I set the manual tensioner by measuring the wear mark on the stock hydraulic tensioner...it sounds better then before, no chain rattle, no overtightened wurring noises...just spot on.

One website i used alot to wrap my head around cam degreeing was this one:
Cam Degreeing

For those interested, these are the measurements taken with the R6 cams installed using the R6 cam gears, set to the standard timing marks. (Before degreeing)

All measurements taken at 1mm lift.

Intake Valve open = 16° BTDC
Intake Valve closed = 52° ABDC
(52 - 16) + 180 / 2 =
108 ILC

Exhaust valve open = 44° BBDC
Exhaust valve close = 15° ATDC
(44 - 15) + 180 / 2 =
104.5 ELC

A bit off what I was expecting but it also makes sense why a member on here had a massive dead spot between 6-7k rpm after doing the cam swap using standard marks and not degreeing. As a reference i used the following link for the 2004 R6 engine specs. Going off this info the standard R6 cam timing is 105 ILC / 106 ELC.
Specifications: 2004 Yamaha YZF-R6

I confirmed this with my tuner. After discussions he suggested the best numbers for cam timing is 105/105. This in his opinion gave the best performance across the rev range for the 03-05 r6 engine. And basically it was up to me If I wanted to try anything different. So taking his advice I set the cams to 105/105. I'll experiment a little in the future but for now i want the thing running and tuned.

So the process of elongating the cam gear mounting holes was quick and easy. I used a dremel with a small stone bit and checked the amount removed using digital verniers as I was going.

Honestly the hardest part was accurately setting the dial indicator on the valve bucket. It took quite a while to get that right and reading consistent numbers.

So.....pretty happy with how well it starts, runs and sounds. Gonna give myself a rest this week. Next week I'll remove the side cover again and perform the ignition timing advance mod. Thanks Final impact.

 

[I JET]

https://vimeo.com/240347591

https://vimeo.com/240347968

 

[fazil]

Looks great, how is your first impressions?

 

[I JET]

Well, I'm pretty happy so far although I've only been able to start it and let it run to check things over... I haven't ridden it yet. It has no registration and full race slicks which are very old and hard.