Rear Turn Signals-Noob Question

[REO Scorpio]

Okay,

So I am in the process of finalizing my SHAD rack install and want to clean it up a little bit in terms of the wiring.

While I got the turn signals mounted and working, I basically butchered them when adding the extensions. The result is a completely unstable and shabby looking wire run from the extended holder all the way back to the connection in the side pod.

My question is, can I open up the signal itself and rewire from the housing all the way back to the connection in the pod?

I looked at the parts fiche and it is only available as an assembly, so I'm not sure if it is doable.

I'm guessing I can just get some 18GA (?) wires and the connector and make the run myself, then bring those wires to the 3 inches I have hanging off the signal itself, but I wanted to see if I could actually bring it all the way into the housing for a totally clean, factory look.

Sorry for the lack of pics on this as I am at work.

Jeff

 

[Motogiro]

Okay,

So I am in the process of finalizing my SHAD rack install and want to clean it up a little bit in terms of the wiring.

While I got the turn signals mounted and working, I basically butchered them when adding the extensions. The result is a completely unstable and shabby looking wire run from the extended holder all the way back to the connection in the side pod.

My question is, can I open up the signal itself and rewire from the housing all the way back to the connection in the pod?

I looked at the parts fiche and it is only available as an assembly, so I'm not sure if it is doable.

I'm guessing I can just get some 18GA (?) wires and the connector and make the run myself, then bring those wires to the 3 inches I have hanging off the signal itself, but I wanted to see if I could actually bring it all the way into the housing for a totally clean, factory look.

Sorry for the lack of pics on this as I am at work.

Jeff

Jeff,

See if the socket assembly itself is removable. I would solder and heat shrink new wires near the socket base but I would leave soldering directly to the socket parts alone. 20-22 GA is plenty and will be easier to work with with it's smaller diameter.

 

[REO Scorpio]

Jeff,

See if the socket assembly itself is removable. I would solder and heat shrink new wires near the socket base but I would leave soldering directly to the socket parts alone. 20-22 GA is plenty and will be easier to work with with it's smaller diameter.

I had a hunch you'd be the first to respond. I was this close to just starting it, "Dear Motogiro,"

I'll look at it when I get home. Trying to find a local place that has some FLEXO or PET that BD43 used in his wire. I'd like that look going back to the connector at the pod. Haven't had any luck yet...

Jeff

 

[Motogiro]

I had a hunch you'd be the first to respond. I was this close to just starting it, "Dear Motogiro,"

I'll look at it when I get home. Trying to find a local place that has some FLEXO or PET that BD43 used in his wire. I'd like that look going back to the connector at the pod. Haven't had any luck yet...

Jeff

Dear Reo Scorpio LOL! :rof:

Do you have a Fry's electronics near you? They have lots O stuff!

 

[REO Scorpio]

Actually I do. I buy my computer stuff there, never even thought about that electronic section.

Any idea if the male/female connections are reusable?

Thanks for the help. You really are the go-to for electronics!


Sent from my iPhone 4 using Tapatalk

 

[Motogiro]

Actually I do. I buy my computer stuff there, never even thought about that electronic section.

Any idea if the male/female connections are reusable?

Thanks for the help. You really are the go-to for electronics!


Sent from my iPhone 4 using Tapatalk

I would imagine they'll have releasable pins.