Rectifier/regulator upgrade

[moto_fz6n]

Hello guys,

I read a few threads on this subject but I wasn't able to find the exact part number. I would like to replace the OEM rectifier/regulator with a MOSFET one. I read that the second one is more precise and better protects the battery and the stator. Is this true ?

The original part number for the rectifier/regulator is: SH719AA and the operating parameters are:

No-load regulated voltage 14.1 - 14.9 V
Rectifier capacity 18A
Withstand voltage 240V

Is FH012AA / FH02AA a good replacement for the stock one ?

Thank you.

 

[moto_fz6n]

Just found out that FH012AA is used on FZ1. From the FZ1 service manual these are the operating parameters for the rr:

Model/manufacturer FH012AA/SHINDENGEN
Regulated voltage (DC): 14.2-14.8 V
Rectifier capacity: 50.0 A

!!! So far so good, seems perfect, but......

Withstand voltage:40.0 V

So, is there anything that we could use ?

 

[Gary in NJ]

Has your R/R failed? If not, I wouldn't bother replacing a working analog unit with a digital unit. While the digital unit is more accurate at the switching extremes, the battery can easily tolerate any brief voltage excursions. If we are nit picking, a digital r/r is noisyer (electrically) than an analog unit. Lastly, the r/r doesn't protect the stator. The stator is upstream from the r/r and produces A/C current/voltage regardless of the switch position.

With that said, I would imagine that the R1 unit would work and is probably plug n play. Something tells me that an MT-07 unit would also work.

 

[Motogiro]

Most MC regulators are shunt type regulators. This basically means they create a load between the positive and negative supply to the electrical system. This means that the stator is under constant load and that once the voltage threshold is accomplished the regulator shunts to keep the voltage and current at a specific level. Any power that is not used by the components on the bike is dissipated as heat through the regulator. This means that there is constant heat and current flow/load on the stator and regulator which can reduce the life of the stator,regulator and associated components.

There are series regulators that are made for bikes that reduce the stator load and heat. They are pricey and you should have some experience and understanding regarding modifying your bike to a series regulated system.

If the FZ1 or R1 regulators are shunt type they will not protect the stator or reduce it's work load. For that we need a series regulator.

Here's some interesting talk. Series Regulators for Enhanced Stator Reliability

 

[moto_fz6n]

Has your R/R failed? If not, I wouldn't bother replacing a working analog unit with a digital unit. While the digital unit is more accurate at the switching extremes, the battery can easily tolerate any brief voltage excursions. If we are nit picking, a digital r/r is noisyer (electrically) than an analog unit. Lastly, the r/r doesn't protect the stator. The stator is upstream from the r/r and produces A/C current/voltage regardless of the switch position.

With that said, I would imagine that the R1 unit would work and is probably plug n play. Something tells me that an MT-07 unit would also work.

Thank you for that clarification, Not really sure if the r/r failed yet, but it might in the nearest future. My voltage readings were around 13.9 -14.1 V from idle to 4000 rpm. I have to mention that the battery was fully charged before fitting it to the bike, and I have the naked version of the fz6 so only 1 head light (low beam at that time). Last year I did some measurements on the stator as well, I think the AC voltage was around 60 V. If I would have to change any of these two parts I would prefer an upgraded version.

The r/r from the fz1 mentioned above it's not compatible at first glance, because of the withstanded voltage - FZ6 240 V vs 40 V (FZ1). Are you saying that the one from R1 might be compatible ?

Different topic: If I want to install auxiliary lights, louder horn and so on...Will the battery be properly charged, or do I have to make other changes ? ( in a perfect scenario where the r/r and the stator are working perfectly )

 

[moto_fz6n]

Most MC regulators are shunt type regulators. This basically means they create a load between the positive and negative supply to the electrical system. This means that the stator is under constant load and that once the voltage threshold is accomplished the regulator shunts to keep the voltage and current at a specific level. Any power that is not used by the components on the bike is dissipated as heat through the regulator. This means that there is constant heat and current flow/load on the stator and regulator which can reduce the life of the stator,regulator and associated components.

There are series regulators that are made for bikes that reduce the stator load and heat. They are pricey and you should have some experience and understanding regarding modifying your bike to a series regulated system.

If the FZ1 or R1 regulators are shunt type they will not protect the stator or reduce it's work load. For that we need a series regulator.

Here's some interesting talk. Series Regulators for Enhanced Stator Reliability

Thank you, I will look into those series regulators.