Starter switch or starter?

[IAMJUSTIFYD]

Hello all,
Few months back the bike would not start, I hear one click. The gauge lights are all on and the engine with the orange light comes on. I thought battery, charged it up and started. Did this a couple of times and I bought a new battery. Did it again 2-3 day after new battery where it didn't want to start first couple of pushes of button but did start; I would hear that one click. It has also done this before I bought the new battery. Thursday would not start at all....one click. I'm not home right now but want to look at it this evening. Thinking I should look at the switch first but how do I check the starter if the switch is ok? I tried to start it in neutral, 1st with clutch, kickstand up/down, clicking the stop button off/on...just that one click. I hope it's an easy fix!
Thanks

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

The starter button is likely NOT the issue

To check the starter itself, you can hook up a known good battery to the bike and put the positive line to the starter. (Your basically hot wiring the starter).

With a full 12 volts to the starter ONLY, it should spin over normally. If it does NOT, it's the starter.


The starters are pretty stout, a few have failed from old age, wear and tear. It likely is NOT your issue.

*There is a starter relay that could have failed, is failing. That is the most likely cause if the BATTERY is good and all connections are clean and tight.

What your hearing is the relay moving(the coild inside that moves is working) however the actual contacts that pass current are arced up-no or not enough power passing thru the relay.

Part #2: Yamaha Motorcycle Parts 2007 FZ6 - FZS6W ELECTRICAL 2 Diagram

Here's a pic of my Yamaha outboard engine's relay, (F 150HP, 2300cc) after it started failing on me:
(you can see the burnt up connection on the one "arm"

 

[Motogiro]

There is another possibility. From what you are describing there is evidence of low voltage from the battery. In the beginning of your experience there was the click and no start. You charged the battery and it started. Subsequently you experienced the same failed symptoms with the original battery. You replaced the battery with a new one. It started. Then you again experienced the same symptom of one click no start a few days later.

This would be a good time to recharge your battery and check that it shows a nominal voltage of 12.6 to 12.8 volts dc. Once you've established your battery has been charged, try starting the bike. If it starts you will want to check the charging system voltage to see that the battery is being charged. As the battery reaches full charge from the charging system you should see around 14.5 VDC at the battery. You'll need to rev the motor above 2000 rpm to see the voltage change and make charge. If you see lower voltages from the static battery voltage, once the bike has started, you have a charging system failure. Then you'll want to proceed to charging system trouble shooting. There is some great information on this forum for trouble shooting the charging system.

The reason I see it this way is because I don't see any info on what process was used to deduce the battery was bad and you still have the same problem.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

To add to the above, (which is very, very likely), here's a video I took of mine for checking the charging voltages (dual headlight mod on). Now mine stops short of 14 volts but just barely.

Also, I keep my idle at about 1,100 at operating temp (below spec's-personal preference)

https://www.flickr.com/photos/147134237@N06/29303851750/in/dateposted/

Note: The battery was just charged before taking the video, the battery was old and was soon getting replaced...
Notice on the initial start up, the voltage drops to about 10 volts

 

[IAMJUSTIFYD]

Thanks for the replies! I did charge the battery all the way and checked...12.8. When I tried to start went to..I think...12.4? Was yesterday and I can't remember all the way back that far sometimes Blah Still wouldn't start, just the click. Gonna try in a bit hooking up the starter with the truck battery. Positive to the starter and negative to where on the bike or just leave on the truck?
Thanks again guys!!

 

[IAMJUSTIFYD]

The starter was spinning just fine with the truck battery so guessing it's the relay. I'll try and test that too cause I had disconnected the negative lead to the battery but forgot the positive side. I was trying to get the little bolts off the relay, positive side, and the starter spinned. No key in the ignition or anything. Gotta say it made me jump, didn't expect it.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Thanks for the replies! I did charge the battery all the way and checked...12.8. When I tried to start went to..I think...12.4? Was yesterday and I can't remember all the way back that far sometimes Blah Still wouldn't start, just the click. Gonna try in a bit hooking up the starter with the truck battery. Positive to the starter and negative to where on the bike or just leave on the truck?
Thanks again guys!!

I believe at the starter relay, next to the battery, if you have a volt meter, you should see 12 plus volts at the "battery side" of the relay. When pushing the starter button, you SHOULD now see 12 plus volts on the other side going to the starter. If not, the relay has failed...
.

 

[FinalImpact]

In Neutral and on center stand, place one side of battery cable jumper clamp over the two exposed lugs of the relay. This shorts the relay bypassing the relay and all of the bikes safety hardware.

Doing this like 10 times for 3 seconds at a time will confirm starter and cable to the starter are good IF it cranks over every time.

However, it does not confirm all cables are tight and in good shape.

Keep track of anything warm to the touch. Heat implies resistance. Bad connection get hot when current passes through them. Carefully touch all cables sensing for heat.

Do you have a volt meter?

 

[FinalImpact]

I believe at the starter relay, next to the battery, if you have a volt meter, you should see 12 plus volts at the "battery side" of the relay. When pushing the starter button, you SHOULD now see 12 plus volts on the other side going to the starter. If not, the relay has failed...
.

Good point. Also verify the smaller wire into the solenoid has battery voltage the entire time the starter button is being pushed. If it doesn't, the problem is elsewhere.

In this case a small jumper wire from Batt + to the smaller wire connector lug on the solenoid should activate the starter. Please disconnet small wire BEFORE doing this test.

 

[IAMJUSTIFYD]

Sure do


Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

[IAMJUSTIFYD]

I checked the relay at the battery side..all good. At the starter side no power. I'll check that little wire tomorrow when I get home from work. Thanks again guys!

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I checked the relay at the battery side..all good. At the starter side no power. I'll check that little wire tomorrow when I get home from work. Thanks again guys!

Yes, check it, but most likely, if it's clicking, the coil inside IS working, BUT the contacts are burned up (as my earlier picture showed) and doesn't pass current thru to the starter..

 

[IAMJUSTIFYD]

[video=youtube;bPmVhyHBRAM]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bPmVhyHBRAM[/video]
New relay for the win!! Thanks guys for all the help!!

 

[FinalImpact]

[video=youtube;bPmVhyHBRAM]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bPmVhyHBRAM[/video]
New relay for the win!! Thanks guys for all the help!!

Haha! Brilliant! ^^^ play!

 

[gbose]

I had the same issue with my Harley Sportster and took it into the shop; it would click once and not start. They said it was the battery; replaced it and no problems after that.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

His battery was good, yours wasn't, A very easy fix...