Tank rust?

[fz6-Dan]

Does this mean there is more rust inside the tank? Also what do I do about this?
Thanks guys!


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[FinalImpact]

Ick....
Bummer.
I'd empty it and look with a flashlight. Pull the pump and inspect if you see anything bad from Topside inspection.

There are treatment options, but we need to know if the inside looks as bad as the outside.

Does it still run ok?
I'd at least pull the cap and clean all of that up. OEM had grease on the orange vent seal.

 

[fz6-Dan]

Is runs fine but I guess I wouldn't know anything else. I don't think I need empty the tank to take off the cap right?
Thanks for the feedback! I'll keep you posted!

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[TownsendsFJR1300]

Is runs fine but I guess I wouldn't know anything else. I don't think I need empty the tank to take off the cap right?

There's one allan head bolt you can see with the cap open that needs to be removed.

That bolt as well as a couple visible from the outside need to be removed, then the cap comes off.

You'll see a lot more with the pump removed.

The bolt on the first pic, bottom left, opposite the vent, is the hidden bolt that needs to come out.
The second pic is my old tank with the pump removed...

The two steel lines are the vent, the other, the over flow..

***It appears with that rust in THAT AREA, the drain is clogged and holding water, thus the rust.
I doubt the inside of the tank is rusty but the clogged drain is holding any and all water (washing, raining, etc)
in that area... If you look inbetween the frame and tank, on each side, you'll see the two lines on on each side.
If the drain is PINCHED, it'll hold water. Simple straighten it out(tug gently by hand. Both lines should come
out on the RS of the bike (back by the brake lever).

Double click to enlarge...

 

[fz6-Dan]

There's one allan head bolt you can see with the cap open that needs to be removed.

That bolt as well as a couple visible from the outside need to be removed, then the cap comes off.

You'll see a lot more with the pump removed.

The bolt on the first pic, bottom left, opposite the vent, is the hidden bolt that needs to come out.
The second pic is my old tank with the pump removed...

The two steel lines are the vent, the other, the over flow..

***It appears with that rust in THAT AREA, the drain is clogged and holding water, thus the rust.
I doubt the inside of the tank is rusty but the clogged drain is holding any and all water (washing, raining, etc)
in that area... If you look inbetween the frame and tank, on each side, you'll see the two lines on on each side.
If the drain is PINCHED, it'll hold water. Simple straighten it out(tug gently by hand. Both lines should come
out on the RS of the bike (back by the brake lever).

Double click to enlarge...

Ok so I took off the cap and looked in the tank or at least from what I could see it looks to be rust free! The cap however had a decent amount. I wiped it down with a paper towel avoiding rust run off from getting on the tank. Does anyone know what I can use to safely remove the rust and protect the rusted surface?

Edit: it looks worse in the picture than it actually is
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[FinalImpact]

I'd say diesel, kerosene, brake cleaner, or paint thinner are all free game. Use an old toothbrush for scrubbing.

Good the tank is not rusty inside and yes, easy to kink the hoses...

 

[fz6-Dan]

I'd say diesel, kerosene, brake cleaner, or paint thinner are all free game. Use an old toothbrush for scrubbing.

Good the tank is not rusty inside and yes, easy to kink the hoses...

I'm going to check the hoses when I install my speedoDRD. I'm not sure I fully understand where they are but I'm sure with some research I'll get it. If anyone wants to post a picture that would be most helpful


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[TownsendsFJR1300]

You don't have to lift the tank at all (un-less their missing).

On each side of the bike (and tank), look inbetween the frame and the tank. Maybe 2" in, you'll see a black hose on each side with a "pinch / wire clamp" around each attached to the bottom of the the tank.

In the ATTACHED PIC (double click to enlarge), at the very FRONT of my tank pad, in that space, JUST between the frame and tank is where the nipples are...

Simply gently tug them from about the area where the rear sub-frame top bolts are. You can jiggle them at the tank and see them move further down (to confirm you have the right ones). Just make sure their straight. The LEFT SIDE LINE cuts across to the right side and both lines exit.

The circled area below is where they should exit. As I re-call, they both have a touch of white paint on the angle cut ends...There is a wire loom they go thru too.

 

[FinalImpact]

When I bought mine second hand, both the vent and drain were kinked under the tank. They were pulled up so far they didnt go through any of the peg level eyelets/loops.

Once straighten, water smelling of gas and rust ran out.
I have since rerouted the left hose so it is between the plate securing the pump and the pumps outlet nozzle. This path allows the left hose to always hang through the lower loop by the O2 sensor.

I posted a thread on the topic years ago in the How Too section but imagine the pictures are long gone by now.

 

[FinalImpact]

When I bought mine second hand, both the vent and drain were kinked under the tank. They were pulled up so far they didnt go through any of the peg level eyelets/loops.

Once straighten, water smelling of gas and rust ran out.
I have since rerouted the left hose so it is between the plate securing the pump and the pumps outlet nozzle. This path allows the left hose to always hang through the lower loop by the O2 sensor.

I posted a thread on the topic years ago in the How Too section but imagine the pictures are long gone by now.

Post is still there!

During my little expedition I found assembly errors!

Those vent tubes were both kinked beyond recognition when I pulled the tank up! As best I could tell simply lowering the tank placed the vents in a position that wadded them up and both had two severe kinks which likely hindered operation. When I picked the tank up all was good so I held there for a long while and nothing leaked. Nothing. Then I straightened the kinks from the tubing and water smelling of gas instantly made a 3" puddle!

What I learned from this is to pull the tubes back towards the rear of the bike through the opening in the frame like this as you lower the tank to prevent kinking the vent hoses on both sides:

Here you can see the kinks:

It was water I smelled it and ran my fingers though it. It did smell of gas but was by no means gas. Almost a rust color too! Don't be kinky folks, pull the hose back when you drop the tank. You should be able to see them though the frame openings as shown in the first picture.

Hopefully this helps someone else!

 

[fz6-Dan]

Well you guys are right as usual hehe. One of the lines had a kink, I unkinked it and there was a bit of run off. Not sure if it was water or that I had lifted my gas tank but either way, hopefully problem solved!


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[TownsendsFJR1300]

Excellent!

Now YOU know (un-like the last person to lift the tank)
how they need to be if the tanks lifted...

BTW, lifting the tank (un-less absolutely topped off), NO fuel will come out of that vent.
IE, that "liquid" (likely water), has been sitting there...

 

[siebsey]

In a totally unrelated observation... LOOK AT THAT CHAIN! I don't think I've ever seen such a clean chain.

EDIT: Since it didn't work, I was commenting on Townsends' chain.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

In a totally unrelated observation... LOOK AT THAT CHAIN! I don't think I've ever seen such a clean chain.

EDIT: Since it didn't work, I was commenting on Townsends' chain.

Lil bit of grease on the inside sprocket, that's since been replaced (the sprocket).

D...n, missed a spot!!!!

Third chain, replaced by DID under warranty a couple years before that picture)