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I replaced my thermostat several days ago and just wanted to post some FYI's.
As posted in an earlier thread, the T-stat can be replaced without pulling throttle bodies, etc (per the shop manual).
It is tight, but do-able.
The housing is plastic, not metal, with steel inserts to prevent over tightening the housing...
Both bolts were EXTREMLY TIGHT, so much so, they were on the verge of breaking..
Per the Yamaha shop manual, no thread locker is required however i later found, mine had RED LOCTIT on the threads (no corrosion what so ever). . Yamaha didn't skimp on the thread locker... This made it extremely difficult to remove the two bolts..
The one closest to you (left side), I eventually tried a heat gun to the block (watching for wires/and the housing itself). The heat broke loose the Loctite. Access to the other bolt, for heat, no way.
It took quite some time going back and forth (1/16th of a turn maybe) with the bolts as they were at the breaking point.
A 1/4" drive, long handle, with a regular 6 point socket did the job.
It also helps to remove the radiator hose from the housing for a little more room...
Should you need to heat the inner bolt/block, you will have to remove the TB's to get a heat gun in there.
A PIA, but better than breaking a bolt in the block..
As posted in an earlier thread, the T-stat can be replaced without pulling throttle bodies, etc (per the shop manual).
It is tight, but do-able.
The housing is plastic, not metal, with steel inserts to prevent over tightening the housing...
Both bolts were EXTREMLY TIGHT, so much so, they were on the verge of breaking..
Per the Yamaha shop manual, no thread locker is required however i later found, mine had RED LOCTIT on the threads (no corrosion what so ever). . Yamaha didn't skimp on the thread locker... This made it extremely difficult to remove the two bolts..
The one closest to you (left side), I eventually tried a heat gun to the block (watching for wires/and the housing itself). The heat broke loose the Loctite. Access to the other bolt, for heat, no way.
It took quite some time going back and forth (1/16th of a turn maybe) with the bolts as they were at the breaking point.
A 1/4" drive, long handle, with a regular 6 point socket did the job.
It also helps to remove the radiator hose from the housing for a little more room...
Should you need to heat the inner bolt/block, you will have to remove the TB's to get a heat gun in there.
A PIA, but better than breaking a bolt in the block..