Tire Valve Concern

[SirByron]

Hello hello!

I'm concerned that my rear tire valve is not ok, even though the mechanic has assured me it is.

Story here is that my rear tire was leaking, and neither I nor the mechanic (Lane's Yamaha, who I've always regarded highly) could find the leak. Very slow leak, like 1psi every couple days. Ended up replacing the tire, which fixed the problem. A week later my front tire starts to leak and I find a leak at the valve, which completely snapped in half when I pulled on it! Totally dry rotted. Very scary. And yes shame on me for not checking them more often. I checked the rear valve and it looked old and cracked, so I thought Lane's must have neglected to change that. I called them and even went down there for them to look at it and they said it's a new valve and it's good to go. I've never had reason to doubt them before but the thing just doesn't look new to me and I'm a little on edge from the front valve snapping in half on me, thank goodness not while I was riding it.

Here is a picture of the rear tire valve. I'm probably going to have to replace it just for peace of mind but I'm still curious to know your thoughts.

 

[zrexrich]

Now would be a good time to upgrade them with these (or ones similar).

https://www.jpcycles.com/product/zz21730/k-l-supply-co-right-angle-valve-stem

It's the little things like this that disappoint me with the big four from Japan. My Triumph and KTM came from the factory with things like right angle metal valve stems and braided steel brake lines.

 

[SirByron]

I've been thinking of doing that. The ones you linked to are $3, I've seen some for closer $30, any idea on the big price jump?
I've also read concerns of other riders that since the nut is on the inside of the rim it's impossible to monitor if it's coming loose at all, and that the rubber ones are better since air pressure is locking them in place.
I'm assuming you use the ones you linked to, have you had good experience with them so far?

 

[FinalImpact]

I've been running aftermarket 45° and one did come loose but you will know.

You could just pop the bead on the rear and pull in a new stem if there is any doubt.

Threading the nut on a machined stem would likely require getting the tire off the rim on one side.

Go with your gut. It's not worth dying for.

 

[Motogiro]

The difference may be in the quality of the finish where the internal plunger seals inside the bore of the valve, I also made little washers for my dust caps that give additional seal in case there is a hinky plunger seal.

I've never had an issue with the 90 degree valves and they don't dry rot.

A few more bucks but probably worth it. https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/bike-master-90-degree-valve-stems

 

[zrexrich]

I've been thinking of doing that. The ones you linked to are $3, I've seen some for closer $30, any idea on the big price jump?
I've also read concerns of other riders that since the nut is on the inside of the rim it's impossible to monitor if it's coming loose at all, and that the rubber ones are better since air pressure is locking them in place.
I'm assuming you use the ones you linked to, have you had good experience with them so far?

Your post was a reminder for me to get some. The link I put up was just for reference. After doing a little research their are two different sizes, 8.3mm and 11.3mm. Going off the info in this ebay sellers link https://www.ebay.com/itm/90-Degree-...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 the fz uses the larger 11.3mm size. As for quality/cost differences, the cheaper ones are apparently cast aluminum while the higher quality ones are billet aluminum. If you need some asap check with a local bike shop or Cycle Gear store. From what I read it was advised to put a dab of blue thread lock on the threads. There was also mention of using silicone around the nut to ward off potential air leaks..

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

My tire guy / changer, puts a new valve in with every tire change.

It's cheap and easy, especially with the tire off. You can't see where it goes thru the rim if it's torn or not
If you pull on it sideways a little and spray a soapy solution at the valve, that will show if it's leaking...

If your installer didn't change it, have him change it (or you do it). As noted, it's not worth your life.

Personally, I prefer the stock, pull thru rubber valve. KISS.



*As a side, I lent my MC trailer to some friends for a trip to Sturgis from Florida.. Two trips, and on both, trips (2 Harleys loaded) a trailer tire let loose (and was in excellent condition).

When I replaced the tires, I found a small leak at the TIRE VALVE. Apparently, at the factory, they pulled the valve DRY and tore it at the base (sounds like yours).

Replaced the valves, no issues since.

 

[zrexrich]

One last option if there's concern about the nut being on the inside of the rim. They have them in 90 & 45 degree angles.

https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/tires-and-wheels/myers-90°-tubeless-chrome-valve-stem-p