Valve Clearance ADJUSTMENT

[tejkowskit]

EDIT 2/19/18: This post has been edited since it's original posting date. There was a problem with the photo hosting site since the date of the original posting. The photos in the update ARE the original photos taken during the original post. The photos taken in portrait for some reason have been rotated to landscape or upside down just as an FYI.
EDIT 4/17/20: Updated links.

This is a how to on adjusting valve clearance. There is already a great thread (which i used up until the adjustment) on how to CHECK clearance by forum member @n0other, but I noticed the forum is lacking a detailed, picture heavy how to on actually adjusting.

I'm just providing guidance and if you screw up your bike following my tutorial I'm not taking responsibility for your mistakes :thumbup: now that we have that cleared up..

Link to how to check (note the picutres no longer show up): https://600riders.com/threads/valve-clearance-check.47593/#post-519725

Things I'll add to the how to check which may save some time & make it easier:
-For fully faired bikes, you will have to remove the inner fairings, but not the whole cowling.
-Removing gas tank fully makes this job easier opposed to just pivoting it back.
-Pay close attention to how the rubber mat is placed over the valve cover. A lot of cables and hoses run through it and it gets tucked into some spots. If you just yank it out you'll have a good time trying to remember how it goes in. Pic of rubber mat I'm talking about:

-Tie the ignition coils, battery cables, and other cables/connectors etc. that sit on the valve cover up to the handle bars to get them all out of the way. Seen here:

-Only turn your timing sprocket clockwise! I know this was mentioned in the how to, but the service manual has a mistake in chapter 3, and I want to clarify.
-Pay attention to how valve cover comes off and how gasket goes. My gasket stuck to the cover, but it could be tricky if you don't remember how it went. When pulling off valve cover you have to twist it a bit to clear it from the frame. Be patient and don't rush. This gasket is reusable so be careful not to damage it.
-Bending the end of your feeler gauges into a hockey stick shape will make taking measurements much easier; especially the exhaust valves. This makes inserting the gauge much easier, and less unnecessary drag is created.
-no0ther reused his gasket on the cover which goes over the timing sprocket, but mine wasn't in as good of shape and was replaced. Clean both mating surface of old gasket as best as possible without scratching them. Mine cleaned up well with just my finger nail. Be patient and take your time doing a good job; you wouldn't want an oil leak. Order parts before doing the check so you aren't left waiting for parts to come in.
-This is a great time to replace spark plugs. Edit: Also a great time to check spark plug caps. See FinalImpact's post below for a link to his tutorial on that.
-Take a lot of pictures so you have something to reference during reassembly. I even do videos so I can listen back to spoken instructions.

On to the tutorial.

Once you do your check (no0ther's guide will get you to this point) and are looking at this:

You are ready to move on.

Pay close attention to the timing sprocket and cam sprockets noting where everything goes when at TDC (top dead center). This is important as everything needs to be in proper order during reassembly. TDC is achieved when cyl. 1 lobes are pointing out. T mark should line up with the line in/on the motor, AND both cam sprockets have markings which should line up with the top of the motor.

T on sprocket and line on motor.


Cam sprockets marking notch which lines up with top of motor. This notch is on both sprockets and they both point out (away from each other)


As you can see in the above picture the exhaust cam sprocket has the 'E' highlighted. You guessed it, the 'I' is highlighted on the intake cam sprocket. Makes putting them in the proper spot easy. I didn't notice any markings on the actual cam shaft, though, so make sure you place those in a manor which you won't get mixed up (or only remove 1 cam shaft at a time).

Right side of motor:

Now you can unscrew the cam sprockets from the cam shafts. There are 4 bolts to unscrew (2 on each sprocket). You'll have to unscrew 1, turn the timing sprocket, and unscrew the other as not all the bolts are exposed. It's not unsafe to turn the timing sprocket without the bolts; the sprockets will just spin freely from the camshafts. Just remember the placement of everything so you can set up your timing properly during reassembly!!


Next is to unwind the CCT (cam chain tensioner). You do not need to remove the CCT. This saves you a gasket and removing the CCT unnecessarily. Unscrew the cap bolt and with a very small screw driver unwind the CCT by turning it clockwise. This takes tension off of the cam chain. (This is a good time to check your CCT. Unwind it by turning clockwise and release it. If it smoothly returns and snaps back it is good. If it doesn't snap back smoothly, well, time for a new one). Once unwound you can hold it in place with a vice grip. You will likely do this multiple times during the job as the visegrips will get bumped or the screw driver will get pushed out. Have patience, take your time..I know it's frustrating.

Unscrew this (manual says to replace washer; mine was in good shape so it was put back into service):


Screwdriver & vise:


After unwound you'll notice all the slack in the timing chain.


Jump to Page 4 for continuation of post!! Continuation found here: https://600riders.com/threads/valve-clearance-adjustment.53398/page-4#post-636712

 

[tejkowskit]

Some more pics I took during the process in no particular order.

My plugs cyl 1-4 left to right. Stock plugs :spank:


Radiator removed


Valve cover & underside





Cyl 1 lobes pointing out at TDC


Another pic of unwinding CCT


Feeler under intake 1a. I took out the individual feelers from the stack after taking this pic.


Inside right side timing sprocket cover


View atop

 

[FinalImpact]

This is a how to on adjusting valve clearance. There is already a great thread (which i used up until the adjustment) on how to CHECK clearance by forum member [MENTION=21144]n0other[/MENTION], but I noticed the forum is lacking a detailed, picture heavy how to on actually adjusting.

I'm just providing guidance and if you screw up your bike following my tutorial I'm not taking responsibility for your mistakes :thumbup: now that we have that cleared up..

Link to how to check: http://www.600riders.com/forum/how-to-s-/47593-valve-clearance-check.html

^^ <<SNIP>>
Great Write Up and thanks for sharing!! :thumbup: :thumbup:

Sticky material IMO!

Anyone who is here doing this work should also inspect the coils high tension wire where it enters the spark plug caps. They COME LOOSE AND CAUSE VIBRATIONS! Bad vibrations! http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-...tion-cure-bad-vibrations-spark-plug-caps.html

That said I do have to ask that you remove the chart as its CR material.

Again - Thanks for taking time to document this! Well done!

 

[Senior]

Very thorough, and definitely confirms that it'll be going to the shop to be done

 

[tejkowskit]

^^ <<SNIP>>
Great Write Up and thanks for sharing!! :thumbup: :thumbup:

Sticky material IMO!

Anyone who is here doing this work should also inspect the coils high tension wire where it enters the spark plug caps. They COME LOOSE AND CAUSE VIBRATIONS! Bad vibrations! http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-...tion-cure-bad-vibrations-spark-plug-caps.html

That said I do have to ask that you remove the chart as its CR material.

Again - Thanks for taking time to document this! Well done!

Thanks. I figured the forum could use this since the valve checks are such a hot topic on the forum.

I did check my spark plug caps during this job after reading your sparkplug caps bad vibrations thread a while back. Thanks for that! :thumbup: None spun freely.

As a follow-up after putting on some miles after the adjustment I do notice a quieter motor. Note I also changed spark plugs and did a TB sync. After all of these things I notice a quieter motor with a bit more power and a LOT less vibrations. The idle is smoother and the throttle is much smoother.

 

[tejkowskit]

Very thorough, and definitely confirms that it'll be going to the shop to be done

It's really quite the easy job. Just time consuming, but it is good to know your limit mechanically so you don't realize you're in over your head after it's too late.

 

[nthdegreeburns]

Very thorough, and definitely confirms that it'll be going to the shop to be done

As will I, LOL...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2

 

[The_Paragon]

Great thread!

Interesting findings with your Valve Clearances though. With mileage, clearances usually shrink, especially exhaust valves. I find it a bit odd that nearly all the exhaust clearances were too large. Ive never checked valves on a newer modern 4cyl, just older air cooled jap bikes and atv's
How many miles are on the bike? Do you think that someone may have done a valve clearance in the past and opened them up too much or do you think it maybe came right from factory with too large of clearances?

 

[FinalImpact]

Great thread!

Interesting findings with your Valve Clearances though. With mileage, clearances usually shrink, especially exhaust valves. I find it a bit odd that nearly all the exhaust clearances were too large. Ive never checked valves on a newer modern 4cyl, just older air cooled jap bikes and atv's
How many miles are on the bike? Do you think that someone may have done a valve clearance in the past and opened them up too much or do you think it maybe came right from factory with too large of clearances?

Old school things used to tighten up as the valve seat and valve facing wore away. Modern seats have induction hardened facings so less material is lost. To some extent it may be work hardened from being pounded on by the spring closing the valve. Anyway - That controls that aspect of the valve getting deeper into the head and taking away clearances.

The forces on the stem and bucket are a direct "push" with no angles to induce wear like for example a rocker arm or pushrod, etc.

So now its down to the cam and tappet wearing away. Those are the highest shear points in this engine. Granted the backside of the cam is under no pressure but the lifter bucket is subject to wear from the rotating the lobes ramp against a fixed object which includes the valves spring pressure. In this case, I suspect most of the clearance comes from the lifter bucket face being worn down by the cam lobe. I mean it just doesn't leave much else to loose ground. JM2C....

In short, the quality materials (Cam, bucket, valve, and valve seat) AND of oil and filter used can show up here. If the filter is not removing particulates from circulation it could induce wear and oils left in too long or those having lower concentrations zinc or dialkyldithiophosphate (keeps cam/tappets alive) could show more wear... I'd imagine the break in cycle may play a role too??

 

[Marthy]

Great thread!

Interesting findings with your Valve Clearances though. With mileage, clearances usually shrink, especially exhaust valves. I find it a bit odd that nearly all the exhaust clearances were too large. Ive never checked valves on a newer modern 4cyl, just older air cooled jap bikes and atv's
How many miles are on the bike? Do you think that someone may have done a valve clearance in the past and opened them up too much or do you think it maybe came right from factory with too large of clearances?

The only reason I can see adding clearance is carbon built up. I remember a while back doing some googling about adjusting the desmo valves on Ducati. (Boss bike) and first thing they said is to go out and drive that thing like you stole it before even checking the clearance to clean up any carbon built up.

Kind of wondering...

 

[tejkowskit]

Great thread!

Interesting findings with your Valve Clearances though. With mileage, clearances usually shrink, especially exhaust valves. I find it a bit odd that nearly all the exhaust clearances were too large. Ive never checked valves on a newer modern 4cyl, just older air cooled jap bikes and atv's
How many miles are on the bike? Do you think that someone may have done a valve clearance in the past and opened them up too much or do you think it maybe came right from factory with too large of clearances?

I bought the bike used in May 2011 with ~2500 miles on it and did the check with just under 27000 miles. Previous owner had all receipts from being serviced, and they never had it opened. I was shocked at what I found, too. I am convinced there was an error during assembly since ALL 8 were so far off, but close to each other.
Even when I went to pick up the new shims from the dealer he said he's never sold or had to use that many shims of that size. He said he's never seen that many valves so far off, especially loose.

So now its down to the cam and tappet wearing away. Those are the highest shear points in this engine. Granted the backside of the cam is under no pressure but the lifter bucket is subject to wear from the rotating the lobes ramp against a fixed object which includes the valves spring pressure. In this case, I suspect most of the clearance comes from the lifter bucket face being worn down by the cam lobe. I mean it just doesn't leave much else to loose ground. JM2C....

In short, the quality materials (Cam, bucket, valve, and valve seat) AND of oil and filter used can show up here. If the filter is not removing particulates from circulation it could induce wear and oils left in too long or those having lower concentrations zinc or dialkyldithiophosphate (keeps cam/tappets alive) could show more wear... I'd imagine the break in cycle may play a role too??

The bucket or lobe wearing out is all I could think of, too. The buckets did not look like they endured much wear; they were all in great condition with no signs of heavy wear. I was going to check the lobe dimensions, but my micrometer is only a 1" and the lobes dimensions according to the service manual are 1.278-1.282" with a limit of 1.276". The lobes also did not appear to be heavily worn.

I use shell rotella t 15w40 and a puralator or Bosch filter (the ones recommended in the oil filter thread), and do oil changes per manual recommendations. Change oil every 4000 and filter every 8000. I sometimes ride semi aggressively, but for the most part I'm easy on the bike.

The only reason I can see adding clearance is carbon built up. I remember a while back doing some googling about adjusting the desmo valves on Ducati. (Boss bike) and first thing they said is to go out and drive that thing like you stole it before even checking the clearance to clean up any carbon built up.

Kind of wondering...

I hadn't thought of this, but I find it hard to believe there is that much carbon buildup on a 27000 mile bike that only gets premium gasoline. I haven't been experiencing any symptoms that go along with carbon build up either.

 

[FinalImpact]

<< snip >>
I hadn't thought of this, but I find it hard to believe there is that much carbon buildup on a 27000 mile bike that only gets premium gasoline. I haven't been experiencing any symptoms that go along with carbon build up either.

That ^^ is more a product of how how its ridden so it could have build up in 500 miles. i.e. from riding style of:
low rpm, lugging, and chugging about being one extreme
vs higher RPMs (think increased volume through the ports)

Of course the state of tune and fuel maps play a role too.

I mean, you've seen when someone "romps on cage engine" to pass another vehicle and all the carbon blows out of the exhaust? Same thing. Increased velocity keeps the ports cleaner.

There are plenty on here who rarely exercise the whole RPM range as the norm in their riding style so those could be candidates....

 

[tejkowskit]

That ^^ is more a product of how how its ridden so it could have build up in 500 miles. i.e. from riding style of:
low rpm, lugging, and chugging about being one extreme
vs higher RPMs (think increased volume through the ports)

Of course the state of tune and fuel maps play a role too.

I mean, you've seen when someone "romps on cage engine" to pass another vehicle and all the carbon blows out of the exhaust? Same thing. Increased velocity keeps the ports cleaner.

There are plenty on here who rarely exercise the whole RPM range as the norm in their riding style so those could be candidates....

Not that I never gun it..few times a week, but certainly not every ride on a day to day basis! Perhaps this is my excuse to begin? Haha I see a sharp increase in speeding tickets in my future :squid: :Flash::Flash::Flash:

 

[The_Paragon]

Old school things used to tighten up as the valve seat and valve facing wore away. Modern seats have induction hardened facings so less material is lost. To some extent it may be work hardened from being pounded on by the spring closing the valve. Anyway - That controls that aspect of the valve getting deeper into the head and taking away clearances.

The forces on the stem and bucket are a direct "push" with no angles to induce wear like for example a rocker arm or pushrod, etc.

So now its down to the cam and tappet wearing away. Those are the highest shear points in this engine. Granted the backside of the cam is under no pressure but the lifter bucket is subject to wear from the rotating the lobes ramp against a fixed object which includes the valves spring pressure. In this case, I suspect most of the clearance comes from the lifter bucket face being worn down by the cam lobe. I mean it just doesn't leave much else to loose ground. JM2C....

In short, the quality materials (Cam, bucket, valve, and valve seat) AND of oil and filter used can show up here. If the filter is not removing particulates from circulation it could induce wear and oils left in too long or those having lower concentrations zinc or dialkyldithiophosphate (keeps cam/tappets alive) could show more wear... I'd imagine the break in cycle may play a role too??

I have learned something new today! I can now take the rest of the day off of work and ride my motorcycle!

 

[FinalImpact]

I have learned something new today! I can now take the rest of the day off of work and ride my motorcycle!

^^ on the topic if educational....

Although the cams lobes look to be square or flat across the point of lift they are not. The lobes are actually ground at a slight angle to induce rotation into the bucket. If the bucket doesn't rotate, the cam would grind a hole right through it. If you were to watch the valve-train assembly while the engine is running you would see all the buckets rotating.

To some extent you can see the wear pattern has a rotation or swirl too it. It is attempting to rotate the valve against the springs pressure and it does to some extent. So there is a very minor amount of wear between the bucket, shim, and valve.

Should the buckets fail to rotate, its doom for the camshaft.

FWIW: Zinc it the primary ingredient in the oil that keeps the shear wiping action of cam and bucket from destroying themselves. However, Zinc is bad for catalytic converters - hence many manufactures use roller camshafts to reduce the need for that ingredient in the oil. It also frees up some horse power.

 

[tejkowskit]

^^ on the topic if educational....

Although the cams lobes look to be square or flat across the point of lift they are not. The lobes are actually ground at a slight angle to induce rotation into the bucket.

Very interesting bit of info. I definitely noticed the swirls on the underside of the buckets and it is pretty clear in the picture! :thumbup:

 

[FinalImpact]

Noticed the FSM says to remove the "Throttle Bodies!!!" I suspect many shop quotes labor to remove them while in fact [MENTION=16958]tejkowskit[/MENTION] shows its clearly not necessary!

Point: ASK what you're being charged for if you're the paying kind and ask "did you really remove those T/Bs??" When you look at your bill. It might save you a few bucks...

 

[FinalImpact]

Was at the shop and asked how if they'd trade shims!

$4.00 a shim to trade
$8.00 a shim to buy w/out trade.

Promoting thread to sticky! :thumbup:

 

[tejkowskit]

Was at the shop and asked how if they'd trade shims!

$4.00 a shim to trade
$8.00 a shim to buy w/out trade.

Promoting thread to sticky! :thumbup:

Ooh thanks for the sticky!

I remember when I went in with my shims I was told they don't do an even trade, but they ended up discounting traded shims like your shop said they'd do. Those prices sound similar to what I paid, too.

 

[regder]

Noticed the FSM says to remove the "Throttle Bodies!!!" I suspect many shop quotes labor to remove them while in fact [MENTION=16958]tejkowskit[/MENTION] shows its clearly not necessary!

Point: ASK what you're being charged for if you're the paying kind and ask "did you really remove those T/Bs??" When you look at your bill. It might save you a few bucks...

I removed the TB's when I checked mine, can't remember if it helped at all, but I was following the FSM. Not a hard job, except mine were effectively glued on. Took an hour of prying and praying before the f'ers came out.