Verifying what I've learned about EFI on the FZ6

Gary in NJ

Junior Member
Site Supporter
What is it that you are trying to accomplish? I think I've mentioned this before, there are fuel trims embedded in the ECU software.

Here is a cut-n-paste I found from another thread origionally posted by member krid80:

"There is a six pin connector under the tank where on one half, six wires come in and only five come out. Separate the plug halves and push out the rubber stopper covering the unused terminal. run the new wire from that terminal to a good ground and you are ready to adjust.
adjusting is simple! hold down the select and reset buttons for a couple seconds with the key off then turn the key on while holding the buttons for about 7 seconds more. "diag" should appear on the display. press select to switch to "co" then select and reset simultaneously to select "co" mode. adjust "c1" and "c2" the same increments up (write down your factory settings) while dynoing until your power starts to fall off. "


I believe our resident expert is Scott (aka @TownsendsFJR1300). Perhaps he can chime in and give you (or link you to) the full story.
 
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D1ck3y0da

New Member
Just a more accurate tune from my auto tuner. I've blocked off ais, I have k&n air filter, and cheap 150$ exhaust w/cat still installed. I want a good tune be4 I do ignition advance mod.
I just wanted to know if adding intake pressure sensor to auto tuner will help it better guess fuel trims and if so which wire to connect, but also how I would calibrate it.
 
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TownsendsFJR1300

2007 FZ6
Site Supporter
What is it that you are trying to accomplish? I think I've mentioned this before, there are fuel trims embedded in the ECU software.

Here is a cut-n-paste I found from another thread origionally posted by member krid80:
I believe our resident expert is Scott (aka @TownsendsFJR1300). Perhaps he can chime in and give you (or link you to) the full story.

I've never adjuster the o2 on my bike or got into it. I believe it just adjusts the LOW RPM fuel mix, nothing above it.

With that said, I don't care for "fueling tuners". I have open Scorps on mine, no other engine mods and the engine runs great.. (KISS)

Messing with timing advance mods, fueling, etc, IMO, is just not worth the trouble. I've never read here of someone changing /messing with the intake sensor....

I would think your "good tune" would need tweeking once you mess with advancing the timing .

Again, IMO, if your going to do mods, different "tunes", I'd be putting the bike on a dyno and know EXACTLY what is happening...

Not what you want to hear, but good luck
 

D1ck3y0da

New Member
Different strokes for Different fokes i guess. I did the dyno thing and paid $450 for a wonderful WOT tune. I got the auto tuner so the bike could be tuned for real world conditions that a dyno can't apply. I'm simply trying to provide it with as much information i can so it can make better choice just like the ecu. Thanks for you opinion.
 

trepetti

It's all good!
Elite Member
Site Supporter
So adding inlet air pressure to my pcv w/auto tuner will better allow it to make a better map? I've noticed my auto tuner likes to add crazy amounts of fuel (spmetimes +50%) very low in rpm (2500k-7000ishk) @2%- 10% throttle and you can feel it when it hits a crazy high number. I normally have to go into map and adjust. My next question is if I can add pressure sensor how do I calibrate it? Any information will be appreciated. Thanks.
Before you embark on a tune, you NEED to ensure that the fueling system is in tip top shape. For example, you state the the autotuner is adding 50% more fuel. That is not correct. It is increasing the duty cycle of the injectors by 50%. Without knowing the resultant AFR the duty cycle is meaningless. If the injectors are not delivering normal amounts of fuel, then the autotuner is trying to get things back to normal. And one thing for sure, if you start advancing timing on a motor that has fuel delivery problems, you will make LOTS of power.... in the few moments the engine has before it grenades!.

A lean mixture on a stock motor is survivable, because Yamaha builds in lots of safety margins. Start squeezing those margins and you are flirting with disaster. Take it from someone who has been tuning Subaru engines for years.

Don't know your experience. If you have done this before, you know all this, and that's great. If not, be careful and make small moves. A 12.2 compression ratio on pump gas can make the intake charge VERY energetic. Without a wideband O2 sensor, a knock sensor and really good logging (throttle position, AFR, advance, knock events, etc) you can get into irreparable trouble in the blink of an eye.

Good luck and keep us informed. We can all learn new things.
 

D1ck3y0da

New Member
Before you embark on a tune, you NEED to ensure that the fueling system is in tip top shape. For example, you state the the autotuner is adding 50% more fuel. That is not correct. It is increasing the duty cycle of the injectors by 50%. Without knowing the resultant AFR the duty cycle is meaningless. If the injectors are not delivering normal amounts of fuel, then the autotuner is trying to get things back to normal. And one thing for sure, if you start advancing timing on a motor that has fuel delivery problems, you will make LOTS of power.... in the few moments the engine has before it grenades!.

A lean mixture on a stock motor is survivable, because Yamaha builds in lots of safety margins. Start squeezing those margins and you are flirting with disaster. Take it from someone who has been tuning Subaru engines for years.

Don't know your experience. If you have done this before, you know all this, and that's great. If not, be careful and make small moves. A 12.2 compression ratio on pump gas can make the intake charge VERY energetic. Without a wideband O2 sensor, a knock sensor and really good logging (throttle position, AFR, advance, knock events, etc) you can get into irreparable trouble in the blink of an eye.

Good luck and keep us informed. We can all learn new things.
Yes mate the auto tuner has a wideband and a table that tells the pc5 ok i want this afr for this rpm with this throttle. Ex 2%throttle at 4k rpm, 100% at 10k rpm, so on an so forth. The auto tuner don't always want to add 50% fuel at 4k rpm with 2% throttle but it has and I know that much fuel that low is very costly! As I stated im try to get better drive ability out of the autotuner and provide it with as much information as possible to better pick which value of fuel %.
Thanks mate for the info
 
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