What should gauges show when key is turned? Fuel pump doesnt turn off.

[Baci]

Hi peeps!

Been a while and im trying to bring life back into my FZ6. Have not rode her this year so I was doing all the fluids and a battery change. My memory is failing me and I dont recall what I should expect.

Mainly I need to know what the bike should do when you put in the key and push the buttons. I suspect when the fuel pump cycles it stays on(hopefully the cause of the CEL, not sure though since in cars usually its emission/engine related when you have a solid CEL)

key in, kill switch off, what do you see on the dash when you turn the key to on? Is there a check engine light? Does the pump cycle and how long? I have no CEL and fuel pump is off.

Key still on, kill switch moved on, engine not started. Now what do you see? Any change in fuel pump? When I do this I get a CEL and my fuel pump cycles but never stops.


Now once the bike is running. Should you still hear the fuel pump whine? I hear it whine. Sometimes I have a CEL but can get that to go away if I turn the bike off and on again 1 or 2 more times. Do not recall if you should still hear that whine when the bike is running, its faint but still can hear it when my ear is on the tank.


So anyone who can help me confirm what is "normal" that would be great!

Stuff I have done recently:

new battery is in place, it is a year old though. Was kept warm in the winter and shows 12.69 V on the meter and starts the bike fine. Dont think this is a problem any more. Old battery caused all sorts of weird issues. However Ill give that sucker props, original battery lasted 10 years!! Blah:rockon: I have replaced the oil and filter as well, not that it matters here though.

 

[Baci]

Oh and my plan later was to put it in Diag mode. I read that some how I can test the fuel pump. Ill google that unless anyone has a link or info handy. Im hoping that will tell me all the things I need to know. However with out knowing how the bike should act. I figured id better confirm a thing or two.

 

[Motogiro]

The fuel pump has an internal fuel pressure regulator. I guess I would check fuel pressure after seeing if the ECU is throwing an error code.

The fuel pressure regulator could be stuck open.

FinalImpact did an awesome job of building us the best trouble shouting pages I've yet to see. This should help you find the problem as well as absorb experience and knowledge.

https://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6...rake-bleeding.html?highlight=trouble+shooting

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

If you don't have the owners manual (and can post if the bike is an S1 or S2), PM me with an e-mail address and I'll send it to you (PDF).

It'll have how to get into diagnostic's etc.

The pump should initially come on(key turned on), usually 2 seconds or so,-UNTIL the fuel system is pressurized. Then it stops..

S2's, the tach cycles to the right and left.

You can also apply 12 volts to the pump (disconnected from the main harness) and see if it fires up. MOMENTARILY ONLY unless you disconnect fuel lines, (make it safe)…


***If the RED kill switch is off, the PUMP WILL NOT CYCLE at all, no crank / spin either..

 

[Baci]

Thanks for the replies! Glad to see some familiar names still around here

Bike is an s2 I believe(2008). I will PM you my email thanks Townsend.

My gauge cluster and kill switch seem to be functioning normally.



Here is what I have so far:
Ran the diagnostics, for #62 I had a 1, which means I have malfunction history. When the bike is running I have a CEL.
60 for the ECU Check had double 00's which is no current error. Maybe since I did a battery swap that is why?

How do I find out what history 1 for diagnostic #62 means? Manual maybe?

I ran the diagnostics for all the options and everything seemed to pass. When testing the injectors, I heard loud clicks on the right side of the bike but testings the cylinders on the left side there was no click. Would that indicate a problem?


on a side note, I read that you need to disconnect the green plug from the pump before you do diagnostics.......I went into diag mode once with the green plug connected(doh), but dont think I ran any tests that time. Did I potentially hurt the pump?

 

[Baci]

Also if my questions are straying too far away from electrical issues, I can open a new thread.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Stay on this thread please David.

I hate electric's. I do know changing a battery will NOT cause and error code..

Cliff or someone else will chime in...

 

[Baci]

Double checked things, My History(62) diag code shows a 1. However 60 and 61 show 00. Since I have no fault code but it thinks I have fault history. Should I just go ahead and reset the ECU/62? Seems like if its running right and I dont have a fault code, the history is a null point? or is that a concern. Bike idles fine, but has the CEL.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Might be an old code.

Can't hurt to clear them... Then monitor if a new code pops again and go from there...

 

[Baci]

Ill reset it and go for a ride tonight, however after 400 miles in the car yesterday I was thinking of a nap after work. But instead ill go replace a solenoid on the car's AVCS and work on the bike. I can sleep when im dead.

Hopefully it was an old code and a bad battery. Fingers crossed she will be happy the rest of the season.

Thanks again Scott. Ill do my bestest to report back here and update with the answer. I am bad at that, and I hate more than anything finding my issue on the interwebs and no one posts the resolution ever.

Cheers

 

[Baci]

Alrighty, I feel a bit like a moron. realized why I was getting a 1 under diag #62 while i was trying to clear the history. I found that you can see what the code is when you have the bike "on" but not started and not in diag mode. The code I needed flashed where the clock was, dont think the guides I read said that.

So I have an error #43. Fuel pump/injectors voltage not right or a break in the circuit to the ECU.

Two ideas I have for the problem:
#1When I tested the injectors in diag mode, I heard clicking on one bank, but not the other. Could that be why? I expected the tests to be the same on each bank.

#2Also when the bike is not running but the key is on and kill switch is on. The fuel pump cycles but never stops( I hear the fuel splashing). Could this be my issue?


I did replace the battery and lift the tank, I did put more tension than I intended on the wires that connect to the pump(white connector and a green one). I checked them however and they seem solid. I could use my multimeter, but not sure what numbers to expect on each pin.

Any thoughts on this issue? The bike runs and starts fine aside from the CEL and the fuel priming noise.

 

[Baci]

Exact verbiage:
Fault Code: 43
Diagnostic Code: 09
Symptom: Supply power to the injector and fuel pump is not normal
Probable cause of malfunction:
Open circuit in wiring harness. (red/blue line or blue/yellow line)
Malfunction in ECU.



I may try to to trace the red/blue or blue/yellow lines. However I am not a big fan of wiring gremlins. Do I take it to a dealer or shop? Not finding much information online about this. What are the odds I borked my ECU?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Page 7-6 in the (S2) Yamaha shop manual, shows the tool needed (that plugs in-between the pump and line) is where you'd hook up your fuel pressure gauge. And no, the pump should NOT run continuously at key on.

You may very well have a clogged fuel pump filter, the pump runs, doesn't get enough fuel thru it, nor PRESSURE and doesn't turn off.

That or a stuck regular if the pump is staying on (as Cliff posted earlier).

 

[Baci]

I was reading the manual last night you must have known I was going to ask.


Man those tools cost a fortune!! $95 for the adapter and $190 for the fuel pressure gauge. The adapter I assume im screwed and have to buy, doubt a generic one would work? The gauge however, can I use one from Autozone like the Innova Fuel Pressure Tester for $44?

Any idea what the dealer would charge to service this? I am guessing around $300 + parts. Seems to cost about the same as the tools when it come to cars and bikes if a specialty tool is involved.

So much work to do in the next two days, so hopefully this weekend I can work on her.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I'd pull the fuel pump out first and inspect, especially the filter. Rust and crap in the tank WILL collect in the pump filter.

Most times, it burns up the pump (and stops), yours continuously runs.. I suspect there's crap in that filter...

 

[Baci]

You just planned my Friday night! Ill drain whats left of the fuel and see what I can do with the filter and inspect everything else. While im stuck at work tonight ill see what I can do to test the pump.

 

[Baci]

Will it be ok to clean the filter if needed off with carb cleaner or gas? or what would you recommend. I believe that the filter and pump and sensor are all in one, so hopefully dont need to replace just a filter.

Should I test the pump out of the bike? I could run it of the bikes DC 12 V pretty easily I think.

Also I see that I should not touch the base of the sending unit. Does it damage easily or what is that warning for?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Will it be ok to clean the filter if needed off with carb cleaner or gas? Carb cleaner is fine (the fuel filter will NOT come off the pump and is NOT available separately) or what would you recommend.

I believe that the filter and pump and sensor are all in one, so hopefully dont need to replace just a filter. The pump and fuel sender are separate units but "click together". They have to be disconnected INSIDE the tank for removal (see below pic's of tabs to move). For re-assembly, the unit goes back in as one piece.

Should I test the pump out of the bike? I could run it of the bikes DC 12 V pretty easily I think. I would run 12 volts to the pump while submerged in diesel or water. Just maybe drop in fuel before re-installing, you don't want to introduce water into the system..

Also I see that I should not touch the base of the sending unit. Does it damage easily or what is that warning for? Never heard of that, but I would NOT be messing with the sending unit "coil" (not the right word), no reason to.

Here's some pic's of the pump and the filter to get an idea what you'll be looking at:

Push that little lever in the direction of the arrow, the pump and sender unit will 'SLIP" apart (still connected by two wires).
Again, the pump WILL go back in the tank assembled. Check the inside, especially the inside area of the filler for rust. If rusty, you need to address that too.

*Your supposed to replace the pump rubber gasket, you can usually get by with that but one member had one leak on a road trip. (I overnighted him my old one to get him home)







Good luck, hope you find something..

 

[Baci]

I cant see your pictures. Might be my work computer blocking them, ill try my windows laptop when I get home.


I was looking for a new gasket to buy when I found a filter/strainer. Think this is even the right one? From what you stated it sounded like it might break before it removes and reassembles.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2004-2017-...!US!-1&_rdc=1&_nkw=Yamaha+FZ6+fuel+pump&rt=nc

I will have to check part numbers in the manual and see if it has those.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Yamaha doesn't sell that part alone, I didn't (don't know) how /if it comes off.

Notice there's no part # on that part listed above.

But heck if it fits, jump on it. Please post back about that filter

The first pic shows what little lever to move, in what direction to "split" the pump from the sender unit.

DEFINITLY look at that picture somehow (maybe another computer) as pulling the pump with it assembled, there's
a real good chance you'll break something (yes, it's that tight)..