Raid The Revenge
Super Member
-Engine Ice (See first page of this topic)
-Distilled Water/Water Wetter (50:50)
These mixtures are the most cooling-capable coolants available, but you need to change them once a year.
Antifreeze/Coolant-Brand
- Thread starter Raid The Revenge
- Start date
-Engine Ice (See first page of this topic)
-Distilled Water/Water Wetter (50:50)
These mixtures are the most cooling-capable coolants available, but you need to change them once a year.
Raid The Revenge
Super Member
Good question.
After my quest, I discovered the most common answer involves "overall diminishing strength of coolant/antifreeze capability and lifespan." This is especially true if you combine organic with nonorganic brands.
IF the liquids are different colors, you'll usually end up with a gravy-brown mixture in the end.
It's not recommended, but I think you could get away with it if you mix.
wickedpete
New Member
and in case anyone wants to buy Engine Ice, I found it retartedly cheap at this site:
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does anybody know what type of coolant yamaha would normally use?
not sure what the state of my bike is since i bought it, but I have several bottles of Ford purple (used to be orange?) antifreeze sitting at home.
not sure what the state of my bike is since i bought it, but I have several bottles of Ford purple (used to be orange?) antifreeze sitting at home.
The Ford orange coolant is a OAT (Dex-Cool) clone, I would not use it in a vehicle that had traditional ethylene glycol as factory fill (as does the FZ6), otherwise gelling (AKA Dex Sludge) can occur. I would run any coolant that is silicate free. I have used Honda blue and the Nissan green extended life coolant. I have had no issues with either. The OEM Yamaha stuff is very expensive if bought at the dealer.
The Ford Premium Gold or any G-05 equivalent would be fine to use also, provided a proper flush is done on the cooling system.
upshiftoverdrive
Junior Member
This is good for Orange Users:[/COLOR]
PRESTONE DEX-COOL Ext. LIFE
-Good on motorcycles, including aluminum engines. Lasts 5 years/150,000 miles.
This is good for FLUSHES:
-Great to use in between Changes, especially between Green and Orange.
This is my chosen Brand:
-It's green and biodegradable.
The pictures are gone!! They're gone on this entire thread! I don't know what to get! :don'tknow:
KHarper4289
New Member
Get Engine ice and top it off with distilled water.
upshiftoverdrive
Junior Member
I like the qualities of engine ice, however I don't want to change it a year from now. I'm interested in the Amsoil that he posted about a little ways down on the first page. What do you mean top it off? Shouldn't I mix it before I pour it in to get the most accurate 50/50 mix? Thanks
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KHarper4289
New Member
You definitely don't need to change it every year.
The cooling system takes about .6 gallons of coolant w/ reservoir... Engine Ice comes in a half gallon jug, pre-mixed.
My bike has never run so cool before.
I plan to use my coolant for 2-3 years or another 10-15k miles.
upshiftoverdrive
Junior Member
They say it's recommended to change every year, or 1/2 year for racers.
What's your running temp now?
I'm confused, haha. If it's premixed I shouldn't add any water, I need to just fill up the radiator and reservoir right?
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What's your running temp now?
I'm confused, haha. If it's premixed I shouldn't add any water, I need to just fill up the radiator and reservoir right?
Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
Products devolped for the track have an intended purpose and must be change every season as they lack long term anti-corrosion inhibitors.
With air in the system it will begin attacking the materials.
So unless your system is physically blowing coolant out of a known good and correct application Radiator pressure cap, you don't need those products!
An ideal operating temp is 195F to 205F. If a bulk of the engines operation is in this range when warm, leave it be!!!
There will be less wear and better fuel economy than at lower temps. Plus you don't have to change it every 6mo or worry about corrosion ruining your engine!
With air in the system it will begin attacking the materials.
So unless your system is physically blowing coolant out of a known good and correct application Radiator pressure cap, you don't need those products!
An ideal operating temp is 195F to 205F. If a bulk of the engines operation is in this range when warm, leave it be!!!
There will be less wear and better fuel economy than at lower temps. Plus you don't have to change it every 6mo or worry about corrosion ruining your engine!
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I use Prestone pre-mixed..
If the old coolant comes out not too nasty, yes you can just re-fill.
If nasty you may want to flush both. My coolant about 2 years old and still looks new.
Temps generally run about 180 without heavy stop and go traffic...
upshiftoverdrive
Junior Member
Thanks for the responses. I'll look in Prestone 50/50. Bike is running about 180F cruising. I know it had the coolant flushed not too long ago by a mechanic that was working on it. But I have to take the radiator off to replace the fan and make a fan guard so I might as well do it again.
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The one down side about premix on a system that is in use is you never get all the fluid out.
Point/example: if you know it holds a gallon or liter (whatever) and your flush dump yeilds 3/4 of gallon or liter, you premix is now diluted by 25%.
In this case, the total volume is so small and the system effective at dumping 95% of its content, it doesn't matter.
On cage with larger system, a cabin heater, and modern cooling system, most vehicles retain about 25% or more of the flush which as stated delutes premix. So, it pays to fill them 100% and measure what comes out.
Depending on your locale you can balance the mix in favor of freeze or boil over protection...
JM2C!
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I just had my radiator loose today (checking spark plug caps). I loosened the top and removed the lower mount.
With that, I didn't drain anything and had full access to the fan.
You will have to get under the battery for the fan, electrical connector..
That may make the project a little easier...
upshiftoverdrive
Junior Member
Thanks for the tip! I have however already emptied the coolant and removed the radiator. I bought a S1 Fan since there are no used S2 fans out there. I think it should be okay? It's a little heavier and has 4 mounts instead of 3 so i'm going to have to Macgyver it to the radiator. I fear it would have been more work to try and do it while the radiator was still attached. Same with coming up with a fan guard. When I first loosened the top and lower mounts it barely gave me any movement with the hoses beings on there. But I like having all the room I have now to change the spark plugs.
I don't know if i'm going to worry about it that much... That's a very good thought though. I dropped the radiator and rinsed it out so mine will be less diluted than if I just flushed it right?
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Your radiator mix should be fine.
Here's a tip that may help for your radiator guard. It is designed for an S2 (mine) .
It's made of aluminum, one piece. You can see how it bolts with the lower radiator mount.
It simply takes up the gap between the radiator and the fan. Its literally impossible to get any rocks/pebbles in there now..
Feel free to copy...
Here's a tip that may help for your radiator guard. It is designed for an S2 (mine) .
It's made of aluminum, one piece. You can see how it bolts with the lower radiator mount.
It simply takes up the gap between the radiator and the fan. Its literally impossible to get any rocks/pebbles in there now..
Feel free to copy...
ozgurakman
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I'm using castrol radiocool (blue) which has lower silicate than green stuff. It's same as green (ethylene glycol) but also contains rust/oxidation preventer. It has not contains nitrite, amine and fosfate.
My fz's cooling system is as good as first day.
My fz's cooling system is as good as first day.
upshiftoverdrive
Junior Member
Thanks! That's a good idea I like that. Definitely going to copy that.
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