Anybody try Caltric clutch (amazon)

[Smittyboy]

I'm just skeptical of a $50 dollar clutch. I don't roll burnies or rip wheelies, but how long could it last for $50?
My stocker is just over 75k miles and I figure it may be time to put the old horse down.
Anyone have a source for a solid clutch for a couple more bucks?

 

[trepetti]

I did my clutch a few years ago. There was no real problem with the old clutch, but I too have a high-miler (I am at 79,700 miles). I looked at aftermarket like EBC, but in the end the advice I got from other members won over. The OEM clutch is engineered for the bike and while it might be a little more, it eliminated a lot of risk.... like 'how long could it last for $50?".

Don't know if money is tight, but for a job you only want to do once, and to make sure your riding season doesn't get interrupted, give the OEM preference.

 

[Gary in NJ]

Buy once, cry once.

With so many quality clutch kits available at different price points (EBC has a low priced kit around $80 and a performance kit around $200) as well as OEM, it's not worth the aggravation to discover that the off-brand kit springs are wrong (length/rate/diameter/crap), that the friction material wears instantly or that the plates aren't flat.

 

[T-Broke]

My clutch seems to be engaging very far out on the lever. I have a feeling it is on it's way out. I want to order one to have it on hand for when I start feeling it slip. where would you recommend purchasing either an OEM or EBC clutch? Or any other advice on clutches?

 

[trepetti]

Assuming it is the clutch (did you do any troubleshooting?) I would recommend the OEM. I originally leaned towards the EBC, but in the end I decided that the risk wasn't worth it. I was pretty confident that with the OEM replacement, the clutch feel and operation would be something I was already used to.

 

[T-Broke]

It may just be how the clutch is supposed to feel. I just feel like it engages very far away from the handlebar. I could always measure the clutch disks and see if they are within spec.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Most Yamaha's (my FZ as well), with cable operated clutches, engage/disengage towards the end of the lever travel. Un-less very high mileage or abused, the clutch is likely fine...

I'd measure and inspect before buying anything..

The cable likes to be lubed and if over 25,000 miles dig deeper. Un-hook the cable from both ends and tug back and forth feeling for unusual drag.

Here's a pic of mine I found at about 25k (didn't break yet but I could feel the drag).

 

[T-Broke]

I have almost 33k. I have had a cable in My shopping cart for a few weeks because I am taking a trip at the end of May and was going to pack one along. I'll check to see if it's bound up at all! Thanks!

 

[Chris09fz6]

I'd just change it now. It's cheap enough to replace even if there's a couple thousand miles left in it. I changed my clutch cable and both throttle cables over this past winter. 40k miles on the bike and idk if the previous owner ever changed them so peace of mind for me at the very least and a hell of a lot easier than trying to change on the side of the road, that is if you happen to even have an extra cable with you. My friend had his clutch cable snap on his fz09 with only 10k on it and he had to have someone come pick the bike up and bring it home. Not a situation I would want to find myself in lol.

 

[Gary in NJ]

My friend had his clutch cable snap on his fz09 with only 10k on it and he had to have someone come pick the bike up and bring it home. Not a situation I would want to find myself in lol.

I can remember in my broke-ass college days riding for about 3 months without a clutch cable. Did the same in my car for a few weeks...but that one took a lot more planning. (always looking for a hill to back-up and park on).

Lets not even begin to talk about using a vice-grip as a shift lever....

 

[T-Broke]

I had a few old dump trucks and the clutch pedal wouldn't work for various reasons. Blown slave cylinder, master cylinder, the springs went bad and jammed the clutch from even disengaging. I wired up the clutch switch to always closed. So I could just start in first gear with the starter and float the gears from there. I didn't mind. But, letting anyone else drive and they were terrified.

Anyways, I ordered a cable today. I still haven't played with it to see if it binds. But now I have one if it does.

 

[agf]

I broke the clutch cable twice on my FZ6, 1st at about 25K and the second at about 50K. First one was the middle of winter thunderstorm peak hour traffic at night, just got off the road onto a driveway. Local bicycle shophelped me with a long brake cable an outer and a clamp so I could gerry rig a clutch to get me home and then into the shop for replacement. The second time, early summer but a stinker of a day-about 30C by 9am, again heavy traffic and I just about to take off and the clutch felt funny, then snapped and I stalled it- managed to push the bike across two lanes- lucky the drivers kind of twigged I was in a spot of bother. Again to the nearest bike shop then onto Yamaha to order a cable. It came in on Christmas Eve. It took me ages to feed that cable through the frame- I'm sure the dealers have a secret method, there's no way that a mechanic would spend the time I did on that kind of job!

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Mine too was replaced (not quite broke yet-pictured above) at 25,000 miles. And I do lube the cable, the bike doesn't see rain (usually).

I have a new spare cable waiting.

Note:
I was able to pull the cable thru W/O lifting the tank (gotta cut a plastic zip tie off inside the frame) but it was a PIA. It's much easier, and just about as fast to remove the air box for the install.

.

 

[Gary in NJ]

Interesting - I guess the heavy lever pull translates into a cable that wears fast as well. So the high effort lever isn't in our heads.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Interesting - I guess the heavy lever pull translates into a cable that wears fast as well. So the high effort lever isn't in our heads.

Well, mine wore out on the initial sharp turn down from the handle bars..

Last week, I partially pulled the cable ends loose to lengthen the cable. I also tried lubing it but even with the Yamaha clamp on / pressure tool, I could not get lube to spit out the other end... I did get it considerably easier to pull and did install the longer engine clutch lever...

.

 

[Motogiro]

Well, mine wore out on the initial sharp turn down from the handle bars..

Last week, I partially pulled the cable ends loose to lengthen the cable. I also tried lubing it but even with the Yamaha clamp on / pressure tool, I could not get lube to spit out the other end... I did get it considerably easier to pull and did install the longer engine clutch lever...

.

Sorry for the hijack...Good the tornado didn't getcha!