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will it work on an 06?
Yes, - it works on ALL FZ6 from 04 to current day.
will it work on an 06?
Seems like a lot of work for a one minute job. I performed the same Mod with just an 8" length of 16ga stranded wire jumping one powered terminal on the working light to the avalable terminal on the non-powered light. Took me all of 60 seconds...
There's almost always a quick and dirty solution, - but there is also the right solution (In this case the right one is BD43's )!
Right solution? Not for anything but, there are several examples of "Daisy Chaining" wiring point on this bike performed by the manufacturer. The current carrying capacity of the wire used from the existing wire to the powered light is three time less than the current draw of the one working filament. By connecting to this wire I have doubled that current draw however still leaving plenty of capacity. I suggest by performing the original Mod the installer leaves him or herself open to additional potential failure points such as the connector, the harness pathway and lamp connection. Not to mention the risk of lifting the fuel tank removing the air box, battery and more.
Simply put: Sometimes simple is clean, safe and effective.
Cheers!
Seems like a lot of work for a one minute job. I performed the same Mod with just an 8" length of 16ga stranded wire jumping one powered terminal on the working light to the avalable terminal on the non-powered light. Took me all of 60 seconds...
Guess we can agree to disagree on this
could you explain why you don't like his mod? is it just because the other is "cleaner" and looks factory done? or do you disagree with his understanding of the current draw and such? is there a down side to doing it his way?
The cleanness and factory look is a factor as well!
Another thing is that the BD43 mod does not open up any factory wires,- and opening up a wire is welcoming water and humidity into the wire, - hence degrading it over time. Therefore I will always try to avoid cutting into a wire.
Second(or third?) off all, the current you draw on the wire is doubled doing it the "dirty" way, and to my knowledge no-one here has the specs on the factory wire, so there is really no way to tell how it will hold out under the extra load.
It's my beloved bike I'm messing with, - so I don't cut any corners just be course I want to save time, - I rather use the time it takes, and be sure that I'm on the safe side.
Just my 2 cents, - but each man to his own poison
I didn't mean to start any controversy. Please understand I am trained as an Electrical Engineer. The current handling capacity of a given wire gauge is pretty simple. Every licensed Electrician in the US (and else where too) would know this. Example a 14 gauge copper wire ether solid or stranded will safely handle 15 amperes, 16 gauge - 11 amperes and 18 gauge - 7 amperes. The 45 watt headlamp filament at 12 volts would draw 3.75 amperes. The wire from the connector running to the active headlamp is 16 gauges. Adding one more lamp would add another 3.75 amperes of current for a total of 7.5. Still well under the 11 ampere rating for 16 gauge copper wire. As for cutting or splicing into wires, my first post was somewhat flippant. (All apologies FZ6SA) I did a redo of my Mod using the proper spade female lugs or flag connectors as referenced here. I did remove the original flag connector going to the active headlamp and securely crimped both 16 gauge wires to a flag commectory then attached it to the active headlamp socket. I then attached another female flag connector to the formally non working headlight. I ran the short 12" wire round to the front faring from one lamp housing to the other. I used two adhesive wire securing points just as the manufacture uses attaching to the inside of fairing with are out of sight with normal usage. This all in all took me 20 minutes. No mid air wire splices. Again I don't mean to trash anyone here. There are always many ways to perform a mod. Mine eliminates the need to mess with the fuel tank, air box, battery. I think the risk there is greater. The bigger question is why Yamaha chose not to do this in the first place. The cost would have been minimal. Thinking like an engineer I wonder if they were concerned about the current capacity of the alternator. That would worry me. This is a “cost bike” every place to shave a dime counted in its design. I wonder if the smaller output alternator would be the issue. I would say this, if you load up with this extra 45 watt headlamp add a GPS, Radar Detector, Chatterbox Intercom, heated hand grips etc…. I would be very worried, as in no power left to charge the battery (which is already on the small side). Anyway just my thoughts….
This is a “cost bike” every place to shave a dime counted in its design. I wonder if the smaller output alternator would be the issue. I would say this, if you load up with this extra 45 watt headlamp add a GPS, Radar Detector, Chatterbox Intercom, heated hand grips etc…. I would be very worried, as in no power left to charge the battery (which is already on the small side). Anyway just my thoughts….