RaceTech Suspension Mod: Step-by-step w/ PICS

[Wolfman]

I did this mod + the emulators, as the R6 fork mod is a lot more expensive in OZ.

Did not do it myself, got a Suspension guy to do it, and set it up as well.
Used a .95kg spring.

Is an awesome mod, well worth the money, handling is improved lots & lots...thanks for the great write up.

:thumbup:

 

[Scab]

I had forgotten about this post - since I registered right after getting the bike, then didn't post for 16 months or so...
Anyway, I did this mod shortly after getting the bike, using Defy's great post. IIRC, I used .95 springs. I made a few adjustments on preload using washers. I kinda split the difference on oil. I mixed 10w and 15w for an effective 12.5w. I am happy with the results. The difference is night and day over stock.

 

[DefyInertia]

I appreciate the input. I have been trying to decide whether to go with replacing the factory forks with R6S forks (maybe the best solution, but a little more complicated), or upgrading the factory forks via RaceTech springs and emulators (a simpler but hopefully effective solution).

Still trying to decide, but you have given me another option to consider.

John

I wouldn't consider changing over to the R6 forks any more complicated that the mod I described in the first post, if anything, less complicated as you don't have to cut & measure spacers. If you throw emulators into the mix, you're getting even more complicated.

What year is your bike? If pre2007, don't forget that you'll get better brakes with the R6 forks as well.

 

[urbanj]

I appreciate the input. I have been trying to decide whether to go with replacing the factory forks with R6S forks (maybe the best solution, but a little more complicated), or upgrading the factory forks via RaceTech springs and emulators (a simpler but hopefully effective solution).

Still trying to decide, but you have given me another option to consider.

John

I just upgraded from stock forks with 20w and upped preload to the R6S forks.

I paid 280 shipped for 2007 R6S near new forks. thats cheaper than what you can get the emulators and springs for. Preload, compression and rebound are adjusted in seconds. You would have to take apart the stock forks to adjust the emulators and preload. And in the end are more advanced.

I also wouldnt worry about the shims. Im waiting on them to get made but for the time being i used two stacked 8mm stainless flatwashers for the brake calipers and two stacked machine bushings for eachside i had at work that were pretty damn close to the specs for the wheel spacer.

the final result is a 1000% improvement. The bike is completely different. I used the stock recommended R6 settings and then bumped them both by 2 given the fz6 is heavier and I am heavier than the typical 175lbs they set these bikes up for. My rear shock is at 6. I havent ridden on them enough to see if more compression and rebound would feel better.

I shouldnt be trying to sell people away from the emulators but I would say if you can get them for a reasonable price and have a line on the washers. DO IT. If not, get the springs and emulators. Either way you win.

 

[tuningfork]

tuningfork, thanks for the comments. I'll try and clear up a few things for you below.



FYI the 0.80kg/mm rate is from suspension professionals at racetech's site. They averaged the rate of the springs for reference purposes only. For all practical applications, the stock springs don't work too well for people who need a spring rate over 0.80kg/mm.



And the fork oil recommendation is type 01 oil, which is 3.5-5.5 wt oil. From what I understand, all manufactures recommend that weight to make sure it flows freely.



If you're going to drop $160+ for the emulators alone (ignore install costs), you might as well go the R6 fork mod route for about the same total cost and better performance.



Definitely a service item. FWIW, ped runs 20wt oil with stock springs on the street and at the track; he has however, upped the preload considerably. I think the most popular oil wt is 15 with, with some others running 10wt. *shrug*

good follow-up info. After more reading, I am amazed at how cheap the R6 conversion is to do

 

[kambrose88]

Just an FYI to everyone. I found fender washers at Home Depot that fit the front tube perfectly. I did the racetech mod on one, but im jus gonna shim my other 2 FZ's. It'll def improve the springs a little. I figure I'll start with 10 washers each spring. Thats about .56 inches. N it sure beats the hell outta fussing with PVC pipe.

 

[FinalImpact]

Just an FYI to everyone. I found fender washers at Home Depot that fit the front tube perfectly. I did the racetech mod on one, but im jus gonna shim my other 2 FZ's. It'll def improve the springs a little. I figure I'll start with 10 washers each spring. Thats about .56 inches. N it sure beats the hell outta fussing with PVC pipe.

Just my 2cents:
I may be mistaken so forgive me if this it not true, but every fender washer I've seen is stamped and these are not flat! Stacking stamped and plated washes on to a spring with changing loads will create wear between the uneven (not flat washers) which results in small particles being shed into the oil and degrading the shaft and seals.
This is however ideal for testing to determine the amount of preload you desire. When done, you can measure the stack and obtain some ground washers of the desired height. :thumbup:

Because the machine ground washers are flat, they will not have wear points (highs and lows) as they shift about and they will be hydraulically locked together by the oil too.

If you do decide to keep the fender washers, plan on changing the fluid on much shorter intervals to extend the life of the forks.