Recent content by lilleman

After looking around in different threads and after finally pu my own bike on a dyno, it seems that most peolpe seem to end up with a co value of +20 to + 29. My final set up was co +25, riding all stock apart from Akrapovic slip on without noise dampers.

After installing a Akrapovic slip on i noticed an increased amount of debris in storage under the seat and seat lock mechanism. Apperently the standard exhaust had an extra function, keeping dirt out of the storage. compartment. Anyone with the same experience and would any aftermarket hugger...

A simple and basic rule; You get what you pay for. The time and effort put into making a helmet reflects on its price. I've had cheap helmets that were good and quite expensive helmets that were much better in some areas i.e fitting etc. Remember though different helmets may fit better on...

I love my FZ6! But I'd like a bit more power. I drove a FZ1 and loved how it handled, but I got offers on a new -07 GSX-r 750 9900$ and a brand new -08 Aprilia rsv 10000$. Insurance is a big issue though... I have to make up my mind or I'll loose both of them...

In short you can adjust mixture; higher Co Value richens the mixture wich is usefull when you've put on a slip on.You don't wanna go too lean. Ultimate ratio depend on altitude and so on. But the only way to make it perfect is to install a PC and test it on a Dyno.

Sorry! I'am not a man of many words. Co values was set to C1 25 and C2 25. Idle can sometimes still be a bit uneven when cold but when the engine is warm it settle's at 1320 rpm. On my bike (Swedish, european-06) you enter Co mode by pressing and holding reset and select buttons at the same...

Just of curiosity I put the FZ6 on the Dyno. Engine standard apart from Akrapovic slip on without noise dampers. Co was set to 23/23. Result after run was 94,82 hp @ 12100 and torque 59.53 @ 10000. Work shop adjusted C0 to 25/25. :rockon:

On Swedish FZ6-06 press select and reset buttons at the same time and hold them down. Turn ignition on and you'll enter diagnose/co mode after a couple of seconds. scroll with select until Co mode appears. Enter Co mode by pressing the two buttons again. Enter C1 or C2 by pressing the buttons...

Clock is fine...

It was the Key switch. And my first thought was faulty switch, but switches either work or don't work.

On my way to work this morning it hapened...I was enjoying the benefit of driving the FZ6 during rush hour, instead of spending hours in a car. Cruising at 70 mph it suddenly died on me. The display turned black as if I had turned the ignition off and I had to roll to the side of the highway...

Soon these guy's will achive the same success as the japanese did before them. They'll use competent european designers and manufacture chep in china... Time will tell

Did you have any problems shifting or so? Did you se it coming? Glad though it was sorted out by yamaha!

Most brand measure hp at the crank. Maybe the salesman thought of an FZ1 (claimed 150 hp) with 127,7hp/11600 at rear wheel. The report I've seen on FZ6 shows power output 86,2/12100 and 55,8Nm/10200 at rear wheel. But I like to dream that my Fz6 develops 130hp...

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