Recent content by Mikeinho

So, no rust in tank... just a little discolouration from the 'toffee apple' residue. Not so bad that I would consider boiling it. Anyway, used pump arrived today. In very good condition. Dropped straight back in tank with the float attached, as was suggested. Connected everything back in the...

OK... Thanks for the tips. Can't seem to find a supplier in the UK for RingFree, but we have a product that sounds like it does the same job. Redex RDX10. It's specifically designed to clean fuel lines and injection systems. Got a couple of bottles of it in the garage. I also have a small sonic...

So, I've decided not to waste my time potentially ordering the wrong part, and I've got a used (tested) pump (inc. assembly) winging its way to me. Q. I might run pure alcohol through it to clean it out, then pass fresh fuel through it (pre-install). Any objections with my proposal?

Outstanding! Only in the US do you get that kind of customer service. I'll trying sending this to local suppliers and see if someone is willing to hit the stockroom with a measuring tape. Thanks again for the info. [emoji1]

Nice one! I've been doing a few online searches, and I keep coming up with good (but not 100pct accurate) results. On a Polish site, there were lots of image matches, but then the links were poor. Price was around $15 new. Another search suggested a match with a Toyota Prius 2003-09. The part...

When I put 12V across the pump, it did nothing. There's no continuity at all. If I had to guess, the thin residue I noticed on the outside of the pump has created an insulated point in the circuit deep inside the pump. Just out of curiosity, I might cut open the broken pump when I'm done here...

OK... so it is absolutely the electric pump that's goosed. See attached pics... Pic 1 is the disassembled pump in full. Pic 2 is the electric pump removed from its housing. Pic 3 is the end of the electric pump, showing a code that looks like 08 03H 9100 Anyone any ideas if just the inner pump...

Also, there's good continuity along the black and blue wires right up to where it meets the internal pump, so it must be the pump itself that's kaput. Any suggestions at this time are welcomed.

Thanks for the post. I'll try contacting F.I. as suggested. On closer inspection, the plastics surrounding the metal pump appear to be sealed, so maybe it's a no-go. Got a couple of pics now, so I'll try uploading later when I'm back at the PC. Sent from my Lenovo A916 using Tapatalk

Thanks... that's the very same image I found that helped me locate where I needed to be when separating the float from the rest of the pump. Moving on, I've been doing a bit more reading. Yet to confirm it is the internal pump that is the underlying issue, but it's fairly obvious where we are...

Sorry for the delay... finally got back to working on the issue today. So, I’ve done the bulb test on the green fuel pump connector. Turned key to ON position, click from the relay and simultaneously the bulb lit up. Bulb turned off after the second click from the relay as expected. Tried this...

Superb... I have a few spare 50W MR16 spotlights in a drawer, so I'll use one of these to run the load tests. Which gauge wire for connections would you advise? It's only for a few seconds I suppose , so I imagine I'm not going to overheat anything.

Great pic... I'll know what to look for now... a dirty teabag! A little worried by the fire hazard suggestion, as I've already emptied the tank and removed from the bike. I think to be safe I might remove the pump from the tank and test outside... and have my CO2 extinguisher on stand-by...

Just packed up for the evening, but I'll give it a go tomorrow. The siphon I used had a clear tube, and from what I could see the fuel coming out was clean. However, there is still a little fuel swishing about in the tank, so when I come to discard the last half cupful, I'll pour it through a...