Your in the US, so no immobilizer..
Instead of possibly destroying/damaging something else in the wiring
just replace the entire switch with an OEM switch. No re-wire splicing, do it correctly..
Note; I recently replaced my ignition witch as the key wouldn't always turn (just worn out)...
The starter motor has one large wire that gets energized thru a RELAY, above the battery cover.
Please clarify how you put a screwdriver on that terminal (no other power) and got it to spin over... ??
(12 volts DIRECT to that starter post would by-pass everything and allow the engine to spin...
Just an FYI for yourself.
Both hard lines, inside, attach under the gas gap.
One obviously allows venting, the other, if there's too much fuel-will "vent"
into the line and dump on the ground vs over flowing at the cap.
Better the ground than your lap...
Your posts are somewhat confusing..
If your referring to the TWO SMALL lines attached to the bottom of the tank(both sides)
they go down, to the right side of the bike, just behind the rt foot peg. There should be a steel
loop they go thru..
Nothing from the fuel tank goes to the coolant over...
Can you bump / push start the bike?
If you remove the right side "plug" that covers the crankshaft, can you turn that bolt
inside CLOCKWISE (even just a little)?
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Yes it is... You may have some build up or just wear (kinda rare), hampering removal.
#5, the mechanical seal is hammered into part 8.
Remove the impeller first and go from there.
PM sent.
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I wouldn't think temp would play into it, un-less something has a bad connection.
If you have spark now, I'd try starting it.... You can always go back and finish cleaning.
Better yet, get it running (if it does start), then, while it's running, do a wire / connector "wiggle test".
If that...
I believe the S1 and S2 fans have slightly different mounts..
As for the volume dunno.
A rear brake caliper mounting bracket, ( I gather ), I've never seen any after market ones..
SS brake lines would be a good investment...
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S2 4S8-12405-00-00
S1 5VX-12405-00-00