Recent content by warthogcrewchief

I just read up on this thread...great responses. BUT...now I have to save up to get R6 forks for my 2005.

If you haven't dealt with final drive nuts before: The best way to keep the nut from turning is to have someone hold the rear brake pedal down as you tighten and torque the nut. Work so much better than breaking a screwdriver in the drive chain on your KZ1000 (also works for any other chain...

Glad to hear you got your problem fixed. I had a similar issue last week on my '05. Turns out the PO rigged up the clutch safety switch by shorting it to ground (via the horn ground wire). Turns out if both wires going to the clutch safety switch are not closed (connected) and grounded, it...

#7 and #17 are identical: 3MA-25803-10-00 #9 and #19 are identical: 3GM-25803-10-00 Although, it appears you still need two of each as each piston has an inner and outer seal. I found them cheaper at PartsPak. I've used PartsPak before and they were reasonable on shipping times/prices...

For that spot (as a test post), I did not do any major cleaning, just a wipe down. When I do it for real, I'll do a normal soap & degreaser wash, followed by spot degreasing (if needed), let it dry, and then I'll hit it with a paint prep cleaner (Brake cleaner works great for that as it doesn't...

Which reminds me that I'll need to rebuild my calipers soon. I got the bike with 45,000 miles on it and the PO did not take care of it. I'll do them when i rebuild the forks soon.

I'm in Phoenix, yes, THAT Phoenix... Phoenix, D*** it's hot, Arizona. So hot the eggs can be cooked on the pavement. We're reaching well into the 100's already. And I wear ATGATT. The only difference is I wear light weight riding jacket. I also always wear my reflective orange vest (day and...

I just looked it up at https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com. (I like their schematics because it includes the manufacturer's part number, unlike BikeBandit). #7 and #9 are the same part number, but different prices (go figure). The part number is: 3MA-25803-10-00 Amazon has it...

Have you considered getting a rebuild kit? Here are a few on Ebay. FZ6 caliper rebuild kits | eBay While you have the calipers off, get some speed bleeders installed. So worth it! They have little one-way check valves inside the bleeder that allow fluid to leave, but air can't get...

I have a 2005 FZ6 that I have had to do some very minor repairs on (the frame had some minor road rash). I've been looking and looking for a spray paint to match. I read about TufuJunky87's repair to his FZ. I tried out the Dupli-Color's Aluminum Engine Enamel on a test piece (a broken...

When it comes to straightening out the steering, it's actually really easy. First, you have to rule out a bent frame, which I think we can safely say is not bent. Next, be sure the forks aren't bent. If they appear straight, but the handlebars appear ****eyed compared the the cord (path) of...

Not sure how deep you've looked into replacing the sub frame, but I've seen two or three on ebay in the $100 price range.

Is the mirror set sold?

It sounds like you haven't been able to get it to run since the kill switch jumper fix. I don't think it's the kill switch, because if the kill switch is in the off position, it won't crank. I've known Yamaha's (since they started using electronic ignition all the way back to the early...

For a happy ending, I was able to get it fixed. After a friend suggested I use an aluminum epoxy (instead of a steel epoxy like JB Weld). I found AlumBond from HY-Poxy on Amazon for less than $7. Amazon.com: Hy-Poxy H-45 Alumbond 2 oz Aluminum Putty Repair Kit: Industrial & Scientific After...