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That's very true. From the time that Randy has spent working on this motor and analyzing the ignition signal, it's safe to advance 4-5 degrees so long as you're already using (and continue to use) premium fuel. I've got an extra trigger plate sitting at my house to advance my timing once I get...

Wow... Now I really want to meet that friend if I'm ever out west! Thanks for teasing us all with the picture!

I've got a very similar setup. When the lever is out, no slipping at all, but partially in maybe a 1/4" and it'll slip unless you come all the way in. A guy I work with rides a Harley and goes "you should loosen that so it has more travel before it starts to slip." No thanks, I like being able...

Look, I don't know if you've even read my posts, but I'm not looking to get into an argument. I'll suffice to say that you're right and crank hp numbers are useless, but I also never said the R6 makes 120 whp (and me never riding am R6 doesn't change that). In fact, I just used a solid argument...

Thus far, I've done my own wrench work. However, as Scott mentioned, I don't have the tools to change tires and reseat the bead to properly inflate, so next season when I get new tires, I'll be taking it to a local shop. Other than that though, I actually enjoy working on my bike. It helps me...

No, I've never been on an R6, but I don't see why that makes any difference? We're talking about raw HP numbers. Being as HP is Torque*RPM/5252 (in the US at least), it makes obvious sense why the R6 Should make more HP than the FZ6. The R6 has at least an extra 1000RPM of redline room compared...

I was speaking generally. I agree with your conclusions. 3 runs, similar temperatures, etc. , etc. But the fact remains that all companies say they make some number, but that's sitting on an engine dyno during development and never after putting the bike on an independent, third-party inertia...

Whenever you see a number in a review for a bike, it's the quoted crank value from the company itself, unless the review mentioned that it did it's own dyno runs.

I think what he meant is that the R6 would put down 130*.91=118ish if the R6 actually made 130hp at the crank. The reason he doesn't trust crank numbers is because all of the motorcycle companies lie about how much power their bikes make so they can say things like "The 2015 [insert model here]...

This right here, is infallible logic (apart from the fact that the blue bikes are the fastest)!

I've got a cheap set of eBay knock offs and I love them. The pull is obviously the same length, but with the lever closer to the bar, it feels easier (your fingers have to reach less, like you mentioned). After lubing the cable well, the pull is nice and smooth, and the actuation zone is perfect...

I'd want to ride the FJ09 if I went to one. That engine is supposed to be a beast, and Yamaha fixed some of the fueling problems from the FZ09 when they put it in the FJ. Other than that, I'd ride just about any bike they could put me on!

I'm not looking to get I a fight, I'm just trying to present relevant information. Parasitic loss due to the drive train is pretty much a constant percentage, not a constant value. So when you quote horsepower numbers from the crank, it's not as realistic as you think. With drive train loss...

Well of course, if you look at the 2015 R6 obviously you could put someone who weighs 200lbs on there and it would still beat a 10 year old bike... I think he was talking in general, and that most people don't ride around on 2015 Cbr600rr's or R6's. And with that in mind, he could probably keep...

Welcome to another Chicagoan! That's a good deal right there, just make sure you replace the tires like Benji mentioned. You won't have anything worn out, but old seals may be dried out and leaking so keep your eyes open. Another big point... You're still in the break in period for that motor...

This right here is my problem. AND that I have you to give me advice/tips on my modifications. I swear, the timing advance and R1 shock are the last mods for a while! To remain on topic, I think putting and exhaust on the FZ6 is the most noticeable upgrade someone can make. It's a shame that...

I definitely agree, I use the clutch for all of my shifts 99.9% of the time, but that .1% is when I'm really getting on it. Clutchless shifting IS faster, and the quickshifters on new bikes/ motoGP bikes prove it. They use temporary ignition or fueling cut-offs to break the force between the...

I think you'll actually find most people on here are opposite of you. I feel more comfortable upshifting without the clutch than downshifting. Also, most people on here would probably agree that it's faster (and smoother) to clutchless upshift when you're high in the rpm range than down low (as...

I've ridden many a quad and never seemed to have trouble switching between it and dirt bikes (or my FZ6). I am 20 years old though, so the video may have some truth in that younger folks can make the transitions more quickly.

I don't have actual experience, but typically with disc brakes, you can remove the caliper and get to the pads just fine.