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That is the one downside to this oil. You and I had talked about it before, and the lower phosphorus is not good for the life of flat tappet cams, but generally speaking the oil performs incredibly well. Hopefully, when they say < 1200ppm, they have it right around 1199 ppm. Blah

+1. I don't mind paying the $15 or so that it costs per quart of Motul 7100 simply because it's great oil. Full synthetic, ester based, has all the correct certifications for use in a wet clutch motorcycle, and the shifts are really smooth now. I went with 20w50 because I wanted the best...

I saw that one yesterday. I'm glad that May is so supportive. I mean they've been together for so long that changing the presenters would be more trouble than it's worth. Especially because they all get along as well as they do. Just like May said, he thinks he's a knob, but there probably isn't...

From what James and Richard have said, there probably won't be a replacement. Either they'll all leave the BBC and start their own show elsewhere, or Top Gear as we know it won't exist anymore. They really are a package deal.

That sounds like a pretty good idea. I'll keep track of my current fork settings and loosen them up a bit to match the back. I had already noticed what you mentioned, and the back is noticeably softer when I jump on the pegs. It's close in the sense that I probably only need to back the preload...

For water at 1 atm (at sea level) it boils at 212 F. Since coolant systems are mixed with a coolant that has a higher boiling temp, AND the coolant systems are pressurized, it's not uncommon to see coolant temperatures spike over 212 F and the fan probably won't kick on until it's close to...

Randy, I think you hit it right on the head. I just did some adjusting. 1 Line of preload gives a bike sag of 16mm and a rider sag of 28mm. I went 5 clicks out for rebound damping (rebounds up once from a hard push with the front brake on, then settles back down) and 7/8 clicks out for...

That's the site I was reading from last night that got me thinking I should check and make sure my sag and other settings are at least close to where they should be. Lots of good info on that site. :thumbup: To be clear, the preload is at 3 lines, and the rebound damping is at half. I...

Thanks for the link, but I'd like to see if I can't do it myself. Learn how to do it right once and I'll never need help in the future. I enjoy working on my bike and I'm too damn cheap to have someone else do it when I could just learn myself. I did head out to the garage though. It's stock...

As one could figure out from the title, I'm looking for some advice from other riders with the R6 fork conversion. I had them dialed in nicely last season, but I've since taken ~ 10 lbs from the front of the bike with my naked conversion. I noticed a borderline tank slapper yesterday under hard...

Re: GPR Ghost Slip-on Exhaust FZ6 Wow, I'd never even heard of or seen that brand of exhaust for our bike before... It looks pretty cool! Do you have pictures with it on?

I lubed my clutch cable just yesterday and left the throttle cables alone. I adjusted the throttle slack so that I could open the throttle to WOT and then let go and I could hear the throttle plates snap back shut.

It will be plug and play with the included headlight harness. The odometer will NOT be the same as the mileage number is actually stored inside the speedometer.

Did you keep the battery on a tender or anything? Typically you hear that clicking noise when the starter motor can't turn the engine over. The cold weather would also not help because the battery would lose some of it's juice, especially if it's an older battery. The easiest thing you can do is...

Well it's definitely more fun to ride a slow bike fast, than a fast bike slowly. If you can find a decently priced and well set up R6 that's still street legal, I wouldn't pass it up. Otherwise, the R3 is always an option.

I meant that the stock clutch setup will be faster than a setup with the modified slave lever. The modified one increases the "friction zone" which is good if you want to work the clutch for city diving, or if you want an easier pull, but the increased size of the friction zone means that the...

Before you buy, try lubing the clutch cable with engine oil. The clutch pull can be hard on our bike, but it's nothing that isn't manageable when lubed up. And besides, it's technically much faster to shift (when using the clutch) if you don't have the slave lever. :rockon:

Quick update, I got mine in a while ago but was at school. I finally got back and got it all mounted up. It's solid as a rock and looks great powder coated black. I'm very happy with mine! Naked was definitely the way to go!

I didn't realize your location. The same oil lubricates the engine and trans on our bike, and a warm bike should definitely shift a bit smoother. I ride my bike for the first time this season yesterday. It was also the first time since my oil change, and I went with a thicker oil than the FSM...

You may need to adjust your clutch cable to get a full disengagement and re-engagment. I was having problems towards the end of last season with what felt like a slipping clutch, but was really just a poorly adjusted (on my part) clutch cable and lever. With regards to technique, I've found the...