Search results

Well, some opinions? So remember I said I had put in the (CR10e)s, but had used cheap autolite equivalents. Well, tomorrow the 2Bros will be here, and I was wondering...although yes of course it will be slightly different, the flow of the 2 Bros and my homemade is probably pretty darned...

Huh! I like that, never seen this before. I notice it's ALL different. Rear seat cowl, main seat now hardpan/fairing combo, and what I figure you're asking about, the front fairing. I see the rear sets are not oem either. Do you have any other pictures of this setup, or was this the only...

I really like what he does in the second part, making the mold for completely broken pieces...I was probably a few miles from this, when I touched it in the garage, it fell off. I might well try that, but I would like to see if I can find a solution without pulling the fairing off. If I pull...

So, this happened a few weeks back. Rode the bike to school and it got bumped into at some point. The bump put stress on the fairing, which we know is secured by this bolt on to the bracket coming off of the frame, and (especially with the washers I have on there) it cracked the fairing...

I agree with that. I want to be heard and seen, but better heard than nothing. I'm just now doing a 2 bros exhaust but even with the one I made, completely wide open and as loud as you can get (with having an exhaust, open midpipe doesn't count ha ha), I could still keep it down just fine in...

That's a good deal if no one has picked it up. If you're looking for even cheaper and are ok with loud, I'm getting rid of the one I made. It worked perfectly with my stock bars, but it's exhaust note does not get along with my aluminum bars, and I'm keeping them...

Damn good idea with the rod...maybe I'll do that with the 2Bro one. See for me I think I can use the one they send with it and their lights. The brackets for the GIVI, once secured, will hold it nice and tight. At least that's my thought on it so far...

Randy, I am researching that, and I will reply. You end up posting things, some I dont know, some I do, some I thought I did...reading through it and then researching is good. Although I'm learning a lot more about it, I was aware of the implementation limits. This is why I haven't invested...

I think I just worded it incorrectly. Yes, I understand about the piggyback and no, no one has invested in the ignition module, for the FZ.. There was another part of the Wiki on wideband, and then one more on narrow band resistive (opposed to voltage output), I just didn't post them up :-)...

That makes perfect sense, if the circuit is only able to accept a certain voltage. I did some homework, and it's not a variable resistor (though those types do exist). I would assume we have a zirconia sensor, the most common, and rugged, narrow band O2 sensors. From Wikipedia: Zirconia...

Oh and I got grommets on. Tomorrow I'll post pics. Bottom line, this will help considerably, but I'm going to have to change it. These mufflers are just too heavy. Not a big deal, I'll ride it like this for a while. 40$ and good welding practice, but I realize now the heavy weight of those...

I didn't realize the narrowband was THAT narrow...I'm not too familiar with O2 sensor operation, but electronically it must be a variable resistor? Since it can only change so much, you're limited. I understand that you can't just put a wideband on and voila! But is there any flexibility...

It makes sense, I understand that, and Thank You. As I interpret it, the PCFC is fooling the ECU as far as what the O2 sensor is telling it. The ECU *thinks* it's maintaining 14.6 because the resistance of the O2 sensor is being changed by the FC. On top of that, then there's the map, which...

Yeah, I just got down to it....I was wrong, there are grommets, but they are so hard I never realized or gave it much thought. With my setup they are indeed pushed to one side, like Randy said, but even if they weren't, I could definitely see vibrations transferring. With a made for...

Well, Just got home and going to take the back end back down. I'm becoming an expert at this...Reminds me of the first car I ever owned....you know the feeling, when you learn all too well how to deconstruct something, and no longer need to itemize parts as you remove them.... I picked up an...

Well I did use all the original connectors, top and bottom, taken off old exhaust and welded to mine. Probably just too tight. The bottom is a direct connection to frame on mine because of the top rack mounts. But, yeah, I'll loosen, try, and add rubber as needed. I also have oem midpipe...

Again, Thank you Scott. It's going to be a b$%ch to get them on. I thought I did pretty well welding the whole exhaust and y pipe and getting the mounts right, but, it was indeed tight. Not that it's any tighter of a fit than stock was, same fit, but the tail tidy/bottom part of the...

What a moron! (I am)....I can't believe the rubber mounting didn't come to me sooner. I KNOW better than that, especially from acoustics designing. I guess I wasn't thinking because I had hooked it up exact same as stock, where there wasn't any. I'll have to stop and get some rubber grommets...

I forgot to say, Water Bear, that as far as bars go I'm looking at ones with less rise and less pullback than stock. I looked those up, and they look nice, but definitely too much rise for me :-) Loren

That's what I thought, thanks Scott. So, REPORT time Blah TB's -- All sync'd at 8.6 inHg. Air screws -- All out between 5/8 and 7/8 turn. Idle screw -- Out a couple of turns past half way (There's about 14 turns to bury it all the way, FWIW). Once it cooled down after the sync and I...