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That's an interesting idea. Unfortunately the shipping to the UK would cost more than the part! :(

As long as you've got the sidelights ("position lights") each side of the fairing, that's OK for the MOT. You don't need any at the rear, just the regular rear light.

Try wiggling the wires and see if that helps. If not, I would check the continuity on the wires that come from under the tank to the cluster and also look for corrosion or loose pins on the connectors. BTW you say it's an S1, but that was replaced by the S2 after 2006 unless it was late being...

Call a professional bee keeper, they'll remove the queen which is why all the other bees are there.

Ok, that's weird, because mine appears to still be showing. I haven't clicked on it, just in case that resets the clock, but it seems odd.

Just as long as it doesn't end with them taking someone else out... 😡

Great, an accident waiting to happen 😡

You don't see this?

Ah, I just remembered something. At the top of the How To area, there was my Avatar and No Prefix, followed by Thread Title When I clicked on that, it expanded to show "You have a saved draft, click here to load it", then it appeared when I hit Post Thread.

I've just tried doing this and think I've found where it will be. Go to the How To section and click on Post Thread again and it should be there.

Sorry to hear this :( With regard to the side case racks, IIRC the PLX 351 is an adapter specifically designed for the FZ6-S (2004 - 2006) to replace the clamps on the under seat exhaust to allow you to fit the racks. The S2 model uses the PLX 360 adapter.

Try taking the actuator lever off the top of the clutch housing and moving it one tooth anticlockwise and see if that helps disengage the clutch.

I test rode a Street Triple some years ago and it was a very nice bike. The handling was good, there was lots of power and it was fun. But, when it came down to it, I couldn't really justify owning two bikes and, with the FZ6, I could load it up with luggage and go on holiday, then take the...

I believe that there is wax inside. When it's cold, the wax is solid, but as the engine warms up, the wax melts so the pin can move. Regarding the hole in the vacuum hose, they're not very thick and they're subject to vibration and bending when you ride, so they wear through at the point where...

When you turn the key you should hear the whine (what you describe as a "buzz") of the petrol pump priming. If you don't hear that, the first thing I'd check would be the kill switch. Firstly, has it been pressed accidentally? (Believe me, I've seen experienced bikers missing this one!) If...

I don't have a pic to hand, but mine is mounted in the under-seat storage area (next to where the tool kit is). Given that space is so tiny, and, on mine, is also where the alarm is, you're not really losing anything by putting it there.

Increasing the airflow through a Fuel Injected engine doesn't give you a performance boost, it just makes it run lean because the fuel map is based on the stock exhaust and a set amount of back-pressure.

Yes, I believe so. I think mine had worn through where they connect to the cylinders at the top of your picture.

Check the vacuum take-offs on the cylinders. A couple of mine had holes worn through them which prevented me from getting the idle down to the correct level.

Just wondering if, during your workings, you might have changed the position of the Tip-over sensor?