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Check the part numbers on here. If they're the same, then, yes... https://www.bike-parts-yam.com/yamaha-motorcycle/600-MOTO

Get a Drop Tester and check the Cold Cranking Amps. A battery can show good volts whilst not having enough amps to fire the engine. If you can push start it (it may take a few tries), get a multimeter and check the output from the alternator (stator) and regulator/ rectifier. If those are out...

How tall are you? I'm 5'7" (170 cm) and don't have any problems even at [ahem] "progressive" speeds ;) You can also always get a double-bubble screen or fairing extender to change the airflow.

Fairings are difficult to find because they're usually the first part to get damaged when the bike is dropped :( You may get lucky in finding a bike that's been rear-ended from a Breakers, or someone who's decided to convert theirs to naked, but other than that, I've heard people saying you can...

Glad to hear you're OK! You can try your best to make sure you're not on a piece of tarmac that someone else is suddenly going to try and use, but sometimes it's just a matter of luck...

Glad to hear you got it back, but I wouldn't try electrical tape, I'd use crimp connectors at least or, better still, if there's enough slack in the wires, soldering them together.

Something that always seems to run out on BMW cars... ;)

I installed HEL braided brake lines on my bike and they're definitely an improvement!

If you do a search for the part number, there's plenty of pics which show it better.

The adapters are (were) sold as a kit, I have the S model (2004-2006) for which I needed the PLX-351 as the setup is slightly different from the S2. Here's a pic I took a few years ago when I did a lot of work on the bike during the Covid Lockdown (it needed it, as you can see!) The PLX 351...

The cam chain tensioner shouldn't be a problem with the low mileage. A few suggestions: I'd drain the coolant and see what state it's in. If it's brown and murky, flush the radiator and put new in. Also I'd suggest checking the rear shock and see if the sag and rebound are ok. Put the bike...

You'll need the PLX 360 adapter kit to replace the exhaust clamps so you can fit the pannier racks. Unfortunately these appear to be rarer than rocking horse poop these days... :(

Yes. The OEM setup is for an "average" rider, but I'm lighter than that, hence needing to reduce the preload.

I'm not sure, IIRC I fitted them during the Covid Lockdown!

FYI I swapped my OEM fork springs for Hyperpro progressives, although I needed to cut down the metal "spacer" in the top of the fork to get the preload right. As I only weigh about 63kg, I found the oil they supply (15W I think) a bit to thick, giving a harsh ride, especially in cold weather...

If the bike doesn't have an immobiliser, you can just replace the lock barrel. First thing I'd do, though, is find the timing chain cover on the right hand side (just in front of the clutch) and look for a circular cover with a slot in that. Remove the cover and you'll see a bolt head. Use a...

The best review I can give is that I don't notice it! It does its job effectively and efficiently and that's what I need. It absorbs the bumps without bouncing me out of my seat, but the rear stays planted when needed. I haven't needed to change the preload or rebound since I got it set up for...

This is where I got my YSS shock from: https://www.brooksuspension.co.uk/motorcycle-shock-absorbers/yamaha-fz6-600-fazer-yss-mz456-shock-absorber-04-10 It has preload and rebound adjustment, also you can make it +/- 5mm long. Mine doesn't have compression adjustment, because I didn't need it.

Luckily you've got the S2 model, so you can open the instrument cluster by removing some screws (instead of having to cut it open as happens with the S1 :( ) Open it up and spray in some contact cleaner, also check for loose wires etc. BTW you shouldn't be using the Red key for riding, it's...

I swapped the OEM rear shock on my FZ6-S for a YSS one which is much nicer 👍