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Thanks for the suggestion, I got it put together and it works! I also had the pressure plate installed wrong(punch marks not aligned) so I think that had something to do with it. I'd have it running but I ran into a few other problems, like losing a rubber grommet on the valve cover, not having...

Thank you much! I'll give it a go tomorrow when I actually have time to mess with it

I replaced my clutch recently, and everything mostly went smooth except for reinstalling the cover. I've wasted 3 hours so far trying to get it installed and i think I marred up my new gasket too. Has anyone else reinstalled/replaced the clutch cover? I can't figure out how to get the...

Are those measurements in inches? If so according to google .025inch is .635mm, where the spec calls for .23-.30mm! That's very interesting, my exhaust valves at 22k are at most .31mm on 3 of the 4 cylinders A word to everyone: If possible don't waste your money on one of those premade shim...

The crankcase, transmission and clutch all use the same engine oil. Old or improper oil will affect transmission and clutch performance. Still it kinda sounds more like shifter forks inside the transmission. How many miles?

With the bike off, remove the oil filler cap and pull in the clutch. Can you see the clutch basket move? Sounds like either the steels are warped or the springs are worn.

Are you fully releasing the clutch and rev matching with EVERY gear? If not you should be. If you do take the clutch cover off, yes oil will spill out unless you lay the bike on its side, and you'll have to replace the metal gasket.

Surprisingly the guide didn't really get shredded, it just split. I've already replaced the chain, guides, tensioner, adjusted the valves and reinstalled the cams. Waiting on a gasket for the tensioner as I forgot to order one. I just changed the oil 100 miles ago and had to drain it...

I always thought ankle sprains were no big deal, until a few months ago when I completely rolled my ankle and tore some tendons. Couldn't walk for 3 days, but tried anyways. Didn't feel right for another month or two, and it still hurts sometimes and I can hear the tendons popping. Take it...

The general rule is that for anything above 600cc, you want a 530 or bigger. I went with a 520 swap simply because I needed a new chain and sprockets and thought it would be neat.

It's very anecdotal, because every engine despite having the same parts and tolerances, is unique, and one engine can go 100,000 miles whereas one can have a catastrophic failure at 10,000 miles. Like you said, one that is maintained and not beat on too bad, can run like hell for a long time...

Well, to an extent. The engine WILL wear out faster at 10k than 6k. How much though is a question that can't easily be answered. Given proper preventative maintenance, riding around at 7,000RPM won't hurt this motor. I've ridden for 200 miles straight at 9,000RPM before. If you run it near...

Started tear down on my top end and discovered some interesting things. I had installed a manual cam chain tensioner and apparently I tightened it too much. The cam chain had ZERO play in it, and then I discovered this: This is the chain guide on the tensioner side, completely split and...

I removed the AIS valve(unplugged) when I removed it. I've since reinstalled it and honestly never noticed a difference other than slight reduction in popping of unburnt fuel.

It sounds like you have some other issues other than CCT, but I installed an APE manual tensioner that'll fit an R6(03-05) or FZ6. Is your idle dead set or does it fluctuate or sound lumpy?

Oil life as well as temperature does affect clutch performance, but something to consider is: The wet clutch in these bikes will last 100,000 miles, but not at peak performance. I know mine is going out after 22k miles and shudder/slipping is a problem. But like everyone else said, a good...

The dark smoke is hard to see through unless it's really bright out, but I'm so tall I can't see out of it anyways.

The problem with a faulty cam chain tensioner is that it might hold the chain tight under throttle, but off throttle it will allow slack which can produce the lumpy effect. I'm not saying a manual one is better than a WORKING automatic one. FinalImpact is right about tune and A/F ratio, but...

My bike does the same thing, but I only really noticed it after I changed my sprockets. It's not that big of a deal because if you're down to 3k you should pull in the clutch, brake and shift into first so you're ready to take off. This bike isn't really meant to cruise off-throttle at low...

I've been running the P1 tips in mine and the major difference is quieter at idle, and a deeper growl. Once you get on the throttle though, there's no difference.