Renthal 755 Bars VS FZ1 Bars %Take a Look%

mave2911

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Since the importer doesn't bring Renthal 755 Road Medium 'bars into Australia, I've ordered some from Great Britain.

With the exchange rate doing so well, I got them for half what I could get the FZ6R 'bars I was also considering! (and that's including the £22 shipping charge!)

I'll take some pics of the difference when I get them in a couple of weeks, and I'm hoping the combination of new OURY grips, new 'bar ends and the higher, slightly straighter bars will alleviate the discomfort myself and quite a few other riders experience with the stock 'bars.

I'll let you all know!

Cheers,
Rick
 

FinalImpact

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From the top -

FZ6 vs Renthal 755

DSC_5023StockvsRenth.jpg

DSC_5024StockvsRenth.jpg


I wished I'd thought of clamping them up right to begin with.

What's funny, the bike rides and handles better with a tad more weight on the nose so I put the FZ1 bars back after the R6 forks went on it!
 

mave2911

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Gees, I wish I'd seen that before I ordered!

I ended up buying two sets of 'bars, just to make sure I was happy.

Road Medium and Road High - all up cost me less than $100inc shipping, which is STILL cheaper than ONE set of 'bars from a Stealership here in Oz!

I thing we're being REAMED!

Cheers,
Rick
 

FinalImpact

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mayassa

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So I was busy this weekend modding the renthals, I had them tapped for $20 from a local guy in northern Virginia if anyone else is looking to do this. Then I pulled out the red plug on one side of the bar screwed in the stock bars end and filled it with some lead I melted. With the bar ends and lead bars weight 4 1/2 lbs about 21/4 lbs of lead. I'l take some pics of the install tonight and try to post them with my 2 wheel levers installed.
 

FinalImpact

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So I was busy this weekend modding the renthals, I had them tapped for $20 from a local guy in northern Virginia if anyone else is looking to do this. Then I pulled out the red plug on one side of the bar screwed in the stock bars end and filled it with some lead I melted. With the bar ends and lead bars weight 4 1/2 lbs about 21/4 lbs of lead. I'l take some pics of the install tonight and try to post them with my 2 wheel levers installed.

Sounds like you could have almost bought a tap for that price. . . So you filled the whole bar full of lead plus the stock steal bar ends??? Not a weight saving mod for certain but hopefully they are vibe free! :thumbup:
 

mayassa

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Sounds like you could have almost bought a tap for that price. . . So you filled the whole bar full of lead plus the stock steal bar ends??? Not a weight saving mod for certain but hopefully they are vibe free! :thumbup:

I couldn't find the tap without buying a $100.00 set from sears I looked everywhere, my gas could have paid for it...

I'm not sure how heavy the stock bar is but it's made of steel so I figured I would fill the aluminum with lead to make up for it. I only installed the new clutch and break levers last night, had to grind the break lever down a little to have it slip into the perch without binding, and then lubed the cable. Tonight if I have time I will get the bars with luck.
 

FinalImpact

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I couldn't find the tap without buying a $100.00 set from sears I looked everywhere, my gas could have paid for it...

I'm not sure how heavy the stock bar is but it's made of steel so I figured I would fill the aluminum with lead to make up for it. I only installed the new clutch and break levers last night, had to grind the break lever down a little to have it slip into the perch without binding, and then lubed the cable. Tonight if I have time I will get the bars with luck.

Not great for daily use, but for the one time gotta have a cheap tool, here ya go. Tap and Die Sets at Harbor Freight Tools

Now this may seem crazy but in loose fitting applications like this I have also taken a bolt with the proper thread pitch and used a cut off disc to cut 4 deep grooves length wise in the bolt. Now thread the bolt into the aluminum and use it as a tap. Hint: for best results start with a High Grade bolt. This also works good as thread cleaner when a bottom tap is not available.

Glad you have it going to together. Enjoy!
 

NorCal FZ6

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What is the height of the stock FZ6 bars? Or rise? Meaning If I have regular straight risers how high would they have to be the same height as stock with the FZ1 bars? 1.5"? I was just wondering before I get everything back from the powder coaters? With most things considered my main intention is to straighten the wrists with the FZ1 bars.
 
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FinalImpact

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What is the height of the stock FZ6 bars? Or rise? Meaning If I have regular straight risers how high would they have to be the same height as stock with the FZ1 bars? 1.5"? I was just wondering before I get everything back from the powder coaters? With most things considered my main intention is to straighten the wrists with the FZ1 bars.

Its all in this thread as best we can do. Look up!


Unrelated but:

Anyone ever notice the bars on the Kawa Versys? Lots of rise there if that's what you're looking for. Must be close to 5" or more.
 

NorCal FZ6

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We got it it's done. It was somewhat of a learning curve. The bars are alright. Ran into a few snags. But we know where we're at, for now. I ended up having to drill the bars multiple times for the plastic nubs on the throttle housing. Ouch.....

Played with the FZ1 bars with and without straight risers. The steering is definitely easier. I preferred the position with the risers and the bars somewhat bent down. Seemed comfortable to me.

Unfortunately, had to remove the 1.4" Motech risers. The bolts weren't long enough with the stock clamp. I found out the hard way. The Motech riser bolts stripped out two and a half threads in the triple tree under the tension in one bolt. I ended up just putting on the stock clamp and removing the risers. This totally sucks... I did end up reattaching the stock clamp under torque spec and the bars seem to be fine. Powder coating came out great.

Right now, I need to go get a plastic washer. So I can prevent the Progrips from rubbing up against the throttle housing.
 
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FinalImpact

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We got it it's done. It was somewhat of a learning curve. The bars are alright. Ran into a few snags. But we know where we're at, for now. I ended up having to drill the bars multiple times for the plastic nubs on the throttle housing. Ouch.....

Played with the FZ1 bars with and without straight risers. The steering is definitely easier. I preferred the position with the risers and the bars somewhat bent down. Seemed comfortable to me.

Unfortunately, had to remove the 1.4" Motech risers. The bolts weren't long enough with the stock clamp. I found out the hard way. The Motech riser bolts stripped out two and a half threads in the triple tree under the tension in one bolt. I ended up just putting on the stock clamp and removing the risers. This totally sucks... I did end up reattaching the stock clamp under torque spec and the bars seem to be fine. Powder coating came out great.

Right now, I need to go get a plastic washer. So I can prevent the Progrips from rubbing up against the throttle housing.

That's too bad. A quick rule of thumb is this: bolts need to penetrate at least the diameter of bolt into the threads. Ideal is more like 1.5X.

Be safe and I would rather break it in the garage than panic and have the bars flip. Torque to spec and make sure the threads don't pull out.
 

FinalImpact

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Desktop comparison. . . FZ1 PN 2D1-26111-01-00

And for whomever i stool the photo from, thanks! Others feel free to add to this. . .:thumbup:

FZ6 vs FZ6R
CIMG6355.jpg


FZ6 vs Renthal 755
DSC_5024StockvsRenth.jpg

DSC_5023StockvsRenth.jpg


FZ6 vs FZ1
IMG_1177.jpg


FZ1 Vs Renthal 755
SSC_4788FZ1BarsVsRentahl.jpg

SSC_4788FZ1BarsVsRentahl.jpg
 
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