Shock needle bearing membrane?

z2345

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I have the rear shock off my bike, and took out what appeared to be caked grease from around the needle bearings. Upon closer inspection, it appeared this stuff might have been plastic or something purposely there to hold the rollers in place. Is there any harm in putting everything back together sans that material and just packing the area with lithium grease? Is the membrane necessary?

Thanks!
 
It has been a year since I had mine apart but would think the membrane would be good to keep the those small rollers evenly spaced and not wandering around too much. Not part of the bearing surface.
 
Without it, the inner race will be destroyed... .... You really need new bearing in there.

3 93109-17071-00 OIL SEAL 2 $4.24
4 93315-31758-00 BEARING 1 $12.06
8 90387-1012B-00 COLLAR 1 $6.89

Although the shaft I thought would be ex*****ve is cheap #8

Ronayers.com Microfiche Yamaha>Motorcycle>2008>FZ6>REAR SUSPENSION

Oh My - E X P E N S I V E when spelled wrong turns to a *****!!!! Who Knew!! :spank: :spank: I better retake 4th grade and learn how to type! lol
 
I have the rear shock off my bike, and took out what appeared to be caked grease from around the needle bearings. Upon closer inspection, it appeared this stuff might have been plastic or something purposely there to hold the rollers in place. Is there any harm in putting everything back together sans that material and just packing the area with lithium grease? Is the membrane necessary?

Thanks!
plastic covers the roller bearings, hockey puck looking thing. the needle bearing inside the tube has no cover . you can reach your finger in and touch the needles , and NO you can't put the roller bearing in w/out the plastic cover . the needle bearing is in a exposed career and is a pain to replace
 
no you can't put the roller bearing back in w/out the plastic , the needle bearing , on the inside , exposed is in a cage or career , very much a pain to change grease that up and leave it if you can
 
So with spacers out (plastic bearing seperator) all the needle bearings go to the bottom and it leaves like two bearings taking the brunt of the load.
This is the bearing....
attachment.php


As you can see if the needles are not spaced out, they bunch up leaving just a few to do all the work. Granted it is being pushed/pulled on, but the bulk of the time its carrying the weight of bike and rider.
 
So with spacers out (plastic bearing seperator) all the needle bearings go to the bottom and it leaves like two bearings taking the brunt of the load.
This is the bearing....
attachment.php


As you can see if the needles are not spaced out, they bunch up leaving just a few to do all the work. Granted it is being pushed/pulled on, but the bulk of the time its carrying the weight of bike and rider.

Scott,
Here is what it should look like when new. [MENTION=6338]TownsendsFJR1300[/MENTION]
Look for chatter marks on the "collars" finish where the bearing rides. I'll be replacing mine in the R1 shock soon. Its all chaffed from the bearing cage going south during the many ah "trial fittings" of the shock.

3 93109-17071-00 OIL SEAL 2 $4.24
4 93315-31758-00 BEARING 1 $12.06
8 90387-1012B-00 COLLAR 1 $6.89 << this is the shaft the needles ride on.

I'll update this when the work is done..... http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-...-alternatives-how-install-r1-shock-w-pic.html
 
Scott,
Here is what it should look like when new. [MENTION=6338]TownsendsFJR1300[/MENTION]
Look for chatter marks on the "collars" finish where the bearing rides. I'll be replacing mine in the R1 shock soon. Its all chaffed from the bearing cage going south during the many ah "trial fittings" of the shock.

3 93109-17071-00 OIL SEAL 2 $4.24
4 93315-31758-00 BEARING 1 $12.06
8 90387-1012B-00 COLLAR 1 $6.89 << this is the shaft the needles ride on.

I'll update this when the work is done..... http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-...-alternatives-how-install-r1-shock-w-pic.html


Ok, the cage is actually plastic (first time I've seen that, but there no heat to speak of there). Heck, they couldn't have saved much there cheapening out a steel cage for plastic, (maybe corrosion reasons, less steel to rust if NOT maintained)

The prevous mentions of the plastic sounded like a thin layer of plastic holding the separate needles in.

Thanks Randy..
 
Ok, the cage is actually plastic (first time I've seen that, but there no heat to speak of there). Heck, they couldn't have saved much there cheapening out a steel cage for plastic, (maybe corrosion reasons, less steel to rust if NOT maintained)

The prevous mentions of the plastic sounded like a thin layer of plastic holding the separate needles in.

Thanks Randy..

Once those break out, you see they are very thin. Just spacers. There are many ball bearings I've seen with some form of plastic bearing separator.

From the assembly or manufacturing side, the metal cage can not be deformed while this plastic stuff could be squished into submission and it'd spring back to its intended shape. But the rust thing is a good observation too.
 
I've had a very large, left side MAIN crank to case roller bearing STEEL CAGE disintegrate on my old KLR 250s every 32,000 miles. The cage literally went away and made a god aweful noise.

Started letting loose again at 64,000 miles, rebuild again.. Sold it at 73,000 miles, eventually bought an 05 250. At 28,000 miles, while replacing the cam chain, found the crank bearing with maybe .008" play (not good). Its the bearing under the balancer/cam chain gear in the attachd thumbnail..

Sold that and got the FZ as I was getting tired of complete tear downs...
 
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