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How much? I normally wear a 14 but can squeeze into a 13.

I've got a 520 chain(RK gold) and supersprox on mine and it's got about 3-4,000 miles on it with no visible wear on either chain or sprocket. It's just slightly narrower than a 530.

I believe the Hyper-Pro springs are progressive(could be wrong), whereas Race-Tech are set strength. I have Race-Tech springs in R6 forks on my FZ6 and it's great. Wayyyyy better than stock.

They don't look very durable(compared to riding boots), It's best to spend the money and get a good pair of riding boots, with shin, heel, ankle and toe protection. Anything's better than tennis shoes though...

Another recommendation for ASV shorties.

Personally I went with Galfer stainless lines(with black pvc coating) and EBC HH pads, along with my R6 calipers. It'll do stoppies pretty easily, but after a few years I think it's time to flush the fluid(still great though).

The worst part is finding gear. I topped out at 315 a few months ago, right now i'm at 295 and losing weight. I have the biggest size jacket alpinestars make, and it used to be snug, now it's a little loose so I put the thicker chest and back pads in. The FZ6 still feels great and I can...

1. A throttlebody sync will fix most noise and vibration. 2. The ticking/tinging near the engine is most likely valvetrain noise. Cam chain tensioners failing seem to be a huge problem with these engines as they get miles and use. You're essentially hearing the cam chain rattling a little bit...

1. Your coolant is brown? uhh wtf? 2. It doesn't matter what color it is, when it's burned you get a white smoke. The easiest way to tell is to check your coolant level. If it stays the same and you're not refilling it all the time, then it's probably not that. All coolant is basically...

Yes that's true. Same reason you see steam coming from storm drains and manhole covers when it's really cold.

Usually it will all evaporate by the time the bike warms up. If it does it constantly while riding at running temperature on a warm day, then it's possible you have coolant in your exhaust stream, which is usually caused by a blown headgasket. Just something to consider.

Kerosene is about the only thing that works for me, cleaning the chain, undertail, swingarm, etc. Just don't leave an unsealed bottle of it in your car...

The FZ6 seems even more eager to start on when it's cold :rockon:

I had a terrible lumpy idle and the only thing that actually fixed it was a new cam chain tensioner. Not that you shouldn't adjust the throttlebodies and check everything else first though.

Yeah anodized aluminum does fade. The red adjusters on my levers and the red banjo bolts on my brake lines are pink now.

I'm iffy. I kind of like my job, because I get to drive to places I've never been and get to find all sorts of nice roads, but like all jobs it has its negatives. I drive an armored truck.

I've got a supersprox and a gold chain too. Nothing looks better IMO. Also you can remove the sprocket cover without removing the shift linkage. Good write up

I went the dummy route and did it according to the manual and removed the airbox, battery and box, and heat shield. It made changing the plugs the easiest thing in the world. Took about 2 hours including reassembly.

I've got an Alpinestars cold weather balaclava(baklava is food) and my head/neck are never cold at all. My fingers toes balls and face are a different story though. By the way, I rode to work this morning and it was 19 degrees. Never again.

I suggest buying a spray can of deoxit or any contact cleaner. It'll work better than water(which I don't trust for cleaning an electrical connector...but that's just me)