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It may seem a simple question... but do the grips work?

It is probably not a concidence, but it's also probably not a real major deal either. I'd guess you disturbed a ground connection that is common to those circuits. If the loop from the positive terminal of the battery back to the negative is opened, no current can flow. A fuse opening does...

Octane refers to the resistance to ignition.... diesel fuel is higher octane than gasoline.... which do you think would leave more deposits in your gasoline engine? If the motor has pre-ignition, higher octane is required to control the start of combustion. Other than that, I can't think...

Hopefully you like it better than I did.

I'm working one of the coolest jobs I've had since I retired from the USN. Of all things, I'm working on certifying all sorts of different equipment for the use of Navy, and USMC personnel. EMC work on steroids. I look at different systems nearly every week, for nearly any environment you can...

^+1 Springs are relatively inexpensive, and probably the best mod most people could do to the FZ6 with limited mechanical experience. Even a brand new rider could manage the task in a day, the benefit is immediate, and will not wear out. If the springs are appropriate for the installation...

I vote remove it, too. Sooner rather than later as it might dissolve and then would be no end of trouble with filters and injectors......

We had a spate of cr@ppy gas, right after the earthquake..... the shaker stirred up the sludge on the bottoms of the tanks. Same deal, if you buy gasoline right after the tanks are refilled from the trucks.

It would help, to know what kind of car this is, what year it is, what the mileage is, when the last tune up was done.... hydrocarbons in the exhaust are caused by one of two things. Either the fuel is not being burned up as completely as designed, or there is an oil leak into the combustion...

The motor tends to start dropping off above 12K.... there's really not that much up there, so it makes more sense to shift just a bit short of redline.

+1. If you ride in heavy rain, you will eventually get wet.

Yes, I mean run without any filter in place for a few minutes. Make sure you use a clean cloth and wipe the inside of the air box down, to remove any debris that might get sucked into the engine. K&N oiled filters are sometimes over-oiled by their owners on first installation. Too much oil...

I'd take the starter off and examine it.... it's probably got cr@p on the slides the tracks the gear slides in and out on. Or the spring that holds the gear 'out' is broken. Either way, you should see the problem when you take it apart.

The cutouts in the gas tank are there for you to brace yourself with. Squeeze the tank with your knees, and your junk won't hit anything.

You're coming over at the right time of year.... you'll have a whole winter to adjust to the summer. :) I've visited Raliegh/Durham to do some work with UL in Research Triangle Park. Lived a bit North of there at a hotel for a few weeks. It doesn't take long to get out of town, and you are...

Insulated riding pants would be my next addition, if I were you. Ski mobile pants would be ideal.

Every FF helmet I have owned, I could jut my jaw forward, and touch my chin to the inside of the bar. Or pucker up, and kiss it. (I know, TMI) The less space there is between your face and the bar, the less air can blow up there. That's not a bad thing.

Whatever jacket you buy, if you want to truly stay warm you need to start thinking about going electric.... either a vest or a jacket liner. Gerbing seems to be the front runner in this.

Find out if the sub frame is steel or aluminum. Use a magnet and try to stick it to the metal of the frame, where the peg assembly bolts on. Aluminum cracks very easy. Steel can be bent back.

If you can't find an easy way to convert, try adding a piece of sticky tape to the inside of the windscreen, with the conversions for the speeds you are having trouble with. One column in MPH, and the next in KPH.