Headers look good tho!
R6 cam swap is what i would like to see after all these great improvements.
I thought you grabbed a set of cams? Did you ever install them?
I thought you grabbed a set of cams? Did you ever install them?
Well ive been thinking about it. Mating used cams from another block against used buckets from another block is a turn off. Buying 16 new buckets is to expensive. That is my issue....
Yes, cams are still waiting in a box. Still not sure if that swap worth to try.
I didn't know that buckets should be changed too. What if the existing buckets are used with the R6 cams?
why? it's just buckets, will re-shimming not work for clerance adjusting?
Are used buckets can be used with r6 cams after sanding with 2000 paper?
You mention the exhaust springs are the same PN, and the intakes are different. Do you happen to know any of the spring rates on these springs (lbs/in or whatever unit best fits)?
My reason in wondering is that if the FZ6 intakes have a higher spring rate, then as the lift increases with the R6 cam, you'll run into premature ware.
My thought would be that one of two situations is the difference between the R6 top end and the FZ6 top end:
1) R6 uses softer intake springs to decrease wear during higher lift situations. A potential con to this is softer springs would mean easier valve float, and the R6 redline is a few thousand higher than the FZ6.
2) R6 uses harder springs to avoid the con I mentioned above (valve float at high RPM). The consequence of this would be increased wear on the intake valve buckets. Harder spring means more pounds/in of compression and with a higher lift (even a three hundredths with a spring rate of 500 lbs/in is an extra 15 pounds of force on the bucket).
Now these are my two ideas. I would figure that option 2 is actually what is used because of the increased redline on the R6 motor. This could actually be a good thing for an R6 swap. It would mean the spring rate is a bit lower than in an actual R6, and bucket wear would be lower than in an R6. The increased lift would still mean increased wear though. So my best guess would that you would end up somewhere in between an R6 + R6 cams and an FZ6 + FZ6 cams in terms of bucket wear (with the R6 + R6 cams being worst).
All of that said, it would be cool to see, but I wonder how much of a difference it would really make.
Moving on though: How did you fix the hole in the oil pan? It sounds like you've got everything else figured out though. Did you determine how you're going to handle the exhaust hanger?
>>> WANTED!!!! F/I Dangles OEM forks and R6 forks as trading goodies! haha
27) 90109-082A1-00, BOLT
28) 90201-086P8-00, WASHER, PLATE
29) 5VX-21446-10-00, STAY, MUFFLER
30) 4XV-27424-00-00, DAMPER, MUFFLER
31) 90387-082W9-00, COLLAR
Was that $400 a person or as a group? If it's for the whole group, sign me up! During the winter, my bike literally just sits in the garage with me occasionally working on it, so I could easily pull the ECU for some work. :thup:Thanks ^^ Need that ASAP. Gonna go forth w/out for now. I'll find one.
Group Buy was ~$400 which is too rich for something we can't alter once received. And getting 5 or 6 members to down their bike and ship the ECU off ALL at the same time, well - A stretch I'd guess. And yes, no need for the mod'd trigger wheel. Hence the reason I grabbed a SPARE!
Hahaha, I was hoping it would be the optimistic route.
Are you offering de-cat services over there? My welding buddy doesn't have the necessary equipment to weld stainless and I'd rather if my midpipe didn't slowly rust away.
The exhaust looks good though!