Chain tension too much at certain point?

[Athosch97]

Hello everyone, An issue just popped up the last few days, I thought I was paranoid, but something seems off with the chain, When I'm turning the rear wheel(by hand) there's a point where the chain will be too tight and even make the wheel come to a stop, this was never an issue, and it also makes a clacky noise when it lets go. I have no idea any help? (The chain slack is correct according to the manual, 45-55mm - random thought but I think it's not this, Is there any chance i should adjust my chain slack right when that tension is on the chain? that would make the chain REALLY loose)

 

[Gary in NJ]

It sounds like you have some frozen links. Time for a new chain…and probably sprockets. If you observe the chain as it goes over the rear sprocket you’ll probably see a few links standing tall (not following the contour of the sprocket). If you follow those links, when they get to the front sprocket that is likely where the wheel stops moving.

Attach some photos of the sprockets so we can see if they are too worn to reuse

 

[bryancraftyhands]

I think by tension you mean the link is not bending?
Clean it, lubricate, look for signs of damage, usually overheating (shows discoloration) and / or rivets and rings out of place.
If all the links are good, and your actual tension is in range, set with the weight on the bike, personally I feel best done on a paddock stand, but not necessary, the next thing I would check is the tensioner adjustments to be sure the wheel is straight, then the brake pad and caliper to be sure they are sitting correctly, and free to slide as they should. Finally, I would look at the wheel spacers, axle and bearing for lack of lubrication and damage.
If the chain is on too tight, when that fork moves far enough, it could snap the chain.
Chain being stretched would allow to skip teeth.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Plus 1 on Gary's post. That chain is toast.

It should be adjusted at it's tightest point, while on the center stand. 2" (50MM) total up and down.
if it's super sloppy at points after that, your playing with fire.

When the chain lets loose, it can go thru the engine block, lock up the rear wheel, etc....

.

 

[gnyce]

While we are here - 50MM measuring from where? Middle of chain when at its' highest and lowest points? Or _include_ the chain, so upper-of-chain at top and lower-of-chain at bottom?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

While we are here - 50MM measuring from where? Middle of chain when at its' highest and lowest points? Or _include_ the chain, so upper-of-chain at top and lower-of-chain at bottom?

I measure with a steel, flexible tape ruler.

I use (which is about about the middle of the lower run), at the end of the plastic swing arm guard (which is attached to the swingarm).

Find the tightest part, while looking at the ruler behind the chain to find that.

Then pull the chain up (or down) and set your ruler to match up with chain pin. W/O moving the ruler (best to have it resting on the ground), push the chain in the other direction.

Using the same pin to measure, you'll have an accurate # of your play... Adjust accordingly.


I've also found that if adjusted even slightly tighter than 2", I can feel it thru the machine (not a good feeling).


*I've found, if the chain is maintained, I've only had to adjust it once after installing it new. It stretches a little on break in.

 

[Gary in NJ]

The owners manual gives a drawing. The range of adjustment is 45-55mm.

 

[gnyce]

Right - I've seen/have this illustration. And perhaps I'm being pedantic, but I wasn't sure what exactly to infer from this drawing. Personally I would interpret this as 45-55mm from the _top_ of chain at the upper measurement to _bottom_ of chain at the lower measurement. Being unsure, I was kind of splitting the difference... I recently adjusted and think I might be a little too snug, per Scott, doesn't feel quite right (and a little bit of whine).

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

For me, when adjusted at 2" and lubed, under light load, the lower rung of the chain justs "flows" very, very smoothly.

I just did the re-adjustment of the chain after being broken in and never had to adjust it again.. This chains at least 5 years old, easily..

.

 

[Gary in NJ]

Agreed, I haven’t adjusted my chain in 10,000 miles. When you have to start adjusting modern o-ring chains, they are failing.

 

[Athosch97]

Thanks for all the replies, Greetings everyone, reading everything I have come to the conclusion that it's really time for a new chain. I will order it today and hope it arrives quickly. Thanks again for all the help!

 

[Gary in NJ]

Don't forget the sprockets. Like I offered above, get us a few photos so we can check for wear and cupping.

 

[Athosch97]

Don't forget the sprockets. Like I offered above, get us a few photos so we can check for wear and cupping.

Yeah, I didn't take a picture of it, was a long day today, got caught by the cops and unfortunately I'm without a drivers license, thankfully I live in a small country and managed to talk my way out of it with just a fine ;p
Ordered the sprockets as well photo below.

DID-JT Did-jt Gear-Chain Set for FZ6 '04- (16-46-VX)

Did a small research and this was the "best" recommended.

 

[Gary in NJ]

You can't go wrong with a DID chain and sprockets.

Stay out of trouble.