charging system issue

hockeyredneck14

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So the other day I was riding my bike on the interstate for a couple of hours, and when I got off the interstate I stalled at a red light. When I went to start it the battery was dead. I had to do a push start to get it out of the intersection, and then I pulled into a parking lot and realized that my high beams were on.

The modifications that I have done to my bike that involve electrical components are: truegel battery that is new this year, Heated grips, cigarette lighter, gear light indicator, denali D2 headlights, air horn, and I modified the stock headlights so that both lights are on low at the same time. I did this by finding a totaled bike with the H4 bulb in it, cut the plug to the headlight off, pulled the wire out of the plug on the top (where it is missing on the h4 bulb on our bikes, and is why we only have one low beam), and then ran the wire to the power wire on the low beam light. This was pretty quick and easy.

By doing this both lights are on low beam, and then the high beam works as normal.

I did this headlight modification a few months ago when i installed the denali's, and have had zero problems running the both sets of lights on low, with the heated grips commuting to and from work which is 10 minutes each way.

When my battery died on me the other day, I was not running any of my accessories, only the high beams were on for a couple of hours. could my high beams really be taking so much juice that it would kill the battery even at higher rpms? Also I ran the bike for another half an hour after i got it started again at the intersection, with my headlights on low, and it has been starting fine ever since. Any thoughts or information would be appreciated.
 
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high-beams are 55W, it's not clear if you had both high-beams on, but from the sounds of it this was enough to overwhelm the charging circuit. The battery will compensate for a bit, but will eventually run down as you found out.
 
Basic questions to start - how old is the battery? Can you measure the voltage when trying to start vs running? If there battery drops substantially lower than 12v at any point, especially loaded - then this could be the issue. If the battery is old, I would start there.

Also, are any of your mods wired straight to the battery? I can 't imagine the indicator, low beam mod, or heated grips would load your battery down enough to kill the battery - unless for example your grips are individually switched and left on.

I am not sure if TPS would apply to your year, but this may have caused the stall in the first place. There's a good thread floating around here showing how to enter diagnostic mode and test the TPS.

It may be fuel delivery if the battery reads a solid 12v when starting if you are stalling in low gear low rpm. I would start at the source and measure the battery fully loaded, and check the TPS using the diagnostic mode - unless you know this doesn't apply to you or has already been replaced.
 
yes i did have both high beams on, and the battery is new this year. I do not know what a tps is? but this is the only time when I stalled it wouldnt start, and has been good to go ever since without putting the battery on a charger, and some of my accessories are wired to the battery but when it wouldnt start, all of the accessories were off, except the gear indicator
 
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One thing I notice is that when your high beams are on you have 3 filaments drawing power (the filament in the h7 and both filaments in the H4). This draws more current the the REAL dual low beam mods (motogiro and bd43) and will burn out your h4 more quickly due to excessive heat. This may not be the cause of the battery issue but it is not helping the problem.
 
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As suggested above, I'd get your hands on a volt meter and see what the battery voltage is while off, at idle, and at 3500 RPMs or so.

Most will find that sustained idle time with dual head lights and the fan on (if hot), can drain the battery from a fully charged state to a point of not being able to start the bike.

Can you 100% confirm the headlight modification only has LOW beams on and that neither lamp has both the high and low beam on at the same time. This would lead to twice the current draw and reduced bulb life not to mention the risk of melting the connector at the bulb.

Note; 12V battery fully charged at room temperature should be ~2.15v per cell or 12.8 to 12.9V.

At idle w/dual lamps some will see 12.4V and dropping.
At 3500 13.5V or better.

Grab a meter and test yours. Also please keep in mind the total system wattage can not exceed 300 ~ 310 watts. So you might total all that up and see where your at.
 
One thing I notice is that when your high beams are on you have 3 filaments drawing power (the filament in the h7 and both filaments in the H4). This draws more current the the REAL dual low beam mods (motogiro and bd43) and will burn out your h4 more quickly due to excessive heat. This may not be the cause of the battery issue but it is not helping the problem.

You beat me to as I was typing my book! :thumbup::thumbup:
 
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