front suspension upgrade

[bob808]

Hi guys. I'm looking to upgrade my wobbly front suspension and for money reasons I chose to upgrade the front springs. I know that if I wait for some time I might find a good deal on R6 shocks but this mod would also need some other parts and I'm not looking for a race feel of the bike, only to upgrade it from current status. I know, everybody is saying Racetech, and I might go that way if some other things get clear for me. I know there is also Hyperpro, but can't check their offer right now because their site si not loading atm, or maybe I have a problem with my ISP. As I know, the kit from Racetech costs about 100$ and another 50$ for shipping. About hyperpro I can't say anything. Also there's one more offer that I got yesterday, springs from K-Tech (K-Tech Suspension, road race and offroad motorcyle suspension). The price would be 89 euro and I can just pick it up locally. That would be a 30$ difference in favor of K-Tech. But again, I don't know anything about K-Tech either. All I know is that they are progressive springs, and as I red here somewhere, those would be recommended for off road use where the shock travel is larger. Do you guys know anything about K-Tech? This would represent the cheapest and most confortable offer for me. For racetech I have to pay with CC over the phone, lose 50$ on shipping and wait for 2 weeks to get the package. What would you suggest?

 

[SovietRobot]

I believe the Hyper-Pro springs are progressive(could be wrong), whereas Race-Tech are set strength.

I have Race-Tech springs in R6 forks on my FZ6 and it's great. Wayyyyy better than stock.

 

[iSteve]

Springs are springs doesn't matter where you get them. I have single rate springs and most suspension builders like single rate in short suspensions. But others use dual or progressive rate springs with equally good results.

Hyper-Pro has been around for a long time so they must be doing something right.

I'm using Sonic Springs because they are less expensive. There are a lot of motorcycle spring builders that you can buy from.

 

[Dave.TX]

Yes, HyperPro springs are progressive and RaceTech's are single rate. There's pro's and con's to each setup. Racers don't use progressive springs. As for me I was going to get HyperPro springs but got ripped off by a used-to-be dealer here in the U.S., Annitori, who still takes orders for them and takes your money but that's all they do. I'll go with the RaceTech with emulators, have heard from a local guy with an FZ6 that has done that and really likes the setup. I'm sure the R6 forks are even better but it's not for everybody.

 

[bob808]

As much as I'd like to put R6 forks and single sided swingarm there's a little voice in my head saying "get a R6 instead" I only wish to improve the handling not transform the bike. You can easily get lost into this thing and without noticing you may find yourself that you spent more than half the bike value on extras. If there aren't any huge differences between springs, then I might get the K-Tech ones given the price and commodity. I will be using my bike primarily for commuting and long rides on weekends, some twisties but no racetrack. Thanks for the info guys.

 

[FinalImpact]

Springs are springs doesn't matter where you get them. I have single rate springs and most suspension builders like single rate in short suspensions. But others use dual or progressive rate springs with equally good results.

Hyper-Pro has been around for a long time so they must be doing something right.

I'm using Sonic Springs because they are less expensive. There are a lot of motorcycle spring builders that you can buy from.

I won't point fingers but IMO not all springs are equal. From the base material to the allows added to create the proper steel, you now add the process which is what cost the most i.e. heating, cooling, and tempering the spring so it retains its same properties years down the down after millions of cycles. Granted some processes are likely stolen from others but some springs and/or batches of springs simply hold up better than others.

Makes ya wonder how yamaha made good valve springs that can handle 17,000RPMs on a race bike but fails to make a good fork spring. . .

So we all can learn; everyone should check the ride height and sag periodically to A) keep it setup right B) have record of when it changes because springs do settle and loose rate slowly and it goes unnoticed. Well except when they break.

 

[Yatz86]

How bout Ohlins front springs?

 

[iSteve]

Also Eibach.

All springs may not be equal but for the most part the guys that have been around for just about ever must be doing something right. Also many springs are the same just with a different name on them. A lot of the small suspension shops have there springs made by the same manufactures that yamaha, honda and the others do.

 

[bob808]

I just bought the Racetech front springs kit. Found it on Amazon at a discount price. Plus the shipping was cheaper. [ame=http://www.amazon.com/Race-Tech-Fork-Springs-S3732090/dp/B000GV2DQW]Amazon.com: Race Tech Fork Springs - .90 KG/MM FRSP S3732090: Automotive[/ame]
Got it for a total of 122$
Does anyone know if this kit contains all the seals (gaskets or fixings or whatever they are called) needed for the whole shock system? Do I need anything else besides the oil? And by the way, what kind of oil do I need? Looking for a normal sporty ride, nothing race nor plain touring. Somewhere in between. I reckon 10W?
As long as I am disassembling the whole front end to change the bars, springs and the rusted ball bearings from the steering system (don't know the technical word in english, it's the classical problem for fz6) is there anything else I should look for as long as I'm there? Like maintenance or checking stuff while working in that area?

 

[marke14]

It's the steering head bearings that get rusty and need to be replaced.

The RaceTech kit should include all the parts you'll need. I personally upgraded to a thicker viscosity fork oil when I put my RT springs in - I think I used 15 weight?

 

[bob808]

It's the steering head bearings that get rusty and need to be replaced.

The RaceTech kit should include all the parts you'll need. I personally upgraded to a thicker viscosity fork oil when I put my RT springs in - I think I used 15 weight?

As I saw from different posted pictures the kit comes with springs, a pipe for spacers and some washers. I'm interested in replacing the oil seals as long as I'm there. Does anyone have any idea how many are they in total and if there's an All Balls kit for this thing?

 

[bob808]

Nevermind, found it: 56-135 All Balls Racing
But before I order it, can someone that got the Racetech kit confirm that these seals are not included in the kit? Would hate to get another set if the Racetech kit has one included. In pictures of that kit I only saw spacers...

 

[YZF73]

But before I order it, can someone that got the Racetech kit confirm that these seals are not included in the kit? Would hate to get another set if the Racetech kit has one included. In pictures of that kit I only saw spacers...

I can confirm that I didn't receive fork seals with the racetech spring kit I purchased just a month ago, included within the kit was;

2 linear rate springs,
6 washers,
1 length of preload spacer (around 540mm if I remember correctly),
Instructions etc.

Hope this helps,
Yamahaboyz

 

[bob808]

Hey thank you. I ordered an All Balls seal kit. Should arrive tomorrow. Now only need to find a good torque wrench and a seal tool and I'm good to go. I will check with some of my fellow bikers, maybe they'd trust me with those for one day.

 

[bob808]

Done both jobs this weekend. First day I did the shocks, was kinda nice, not much trouble. Learnt a few things and I managed to clean very good the insides. Got .90 springs and used 15W belray oil. Used 467ml on each leg, and I used a measuring cup for that. I don't know if it's 460 or 470 but I do know that they are both equal. The hardest part for the job was inserting the outer metal bushing back to it's place. Had to use hammer and screwdriver and knocked on the outer round metal bushing that was on top of the metal bushing that had to go into the slot between the 2 tubes. The seal got in very easy using the old one and a screwdriver. If you are careful there won't be any problems. After the new seal goes all the way, the old seal on top goes as well a bit inside but can be taken out very easy with something sharp, might consider to add some grease on the old seal. To get the damping rod screw out I used the method of adding the internals back into the leg and compressing it while someone else unscrews it (a friend would be required to make everything easier). screwing back the damping rod screw was easy and required almost no effort, but you might compress it a bit to be sure. Forgot to mention that you MUST unscrew the damping rod screw in order for the oil seal to come out. Otherwise the screw keeps the 2 tubes locked together.
While doing the shocks keep everything clean! Might use some unleaded gas or any kind of solvent to clean the insides of the shocks. After draining the old gray oil I noticed some gray deposit on the bottom of the lower tubes.
As for the steering head bearings, I found this job most unpleasant. Mainly do to the fact that I didn't have the proper tools. Some press tools would make everything easier. Had to use the dremel to take out the lower race from the stem. Reused that race to knock back the new roller bearing. (watching this video might give you some ideas to get the job done faster Ep 5: Replacing steering head bearings at Garage Night ).
Getting the races out from the frame was easy but putting the new ones in was hard as well, and I had to be very careful with the screwdriver and hammer. Would not repeat this experience again without proper tools. The saddest part is that I cannot drive my bike for the moment, it's raining. I will come back with info on handling

 

[H8 PVMT]

Can't wait to hear about how much different it is!

 

[mayassa]

I always used a 2x4 and hammer to put equal pressure on the races and drive them in smoothly, and wood gives a little so no marking up the edge of the races.

 

[SweaterDude]

Makes ya wonder how yamaha made good valve springs that can handle 17,000RPMs on a race bike but fails to make a good fork spring. . .

the forks are a place where Yamaha tends to "cheap out on their bikes" they did the same with the FZ8. its not a bad place to do so because upgrades are relatively inexpensive. Its just meant to keep the MSRP of the bike affordable.

 

[bob808]

It handles much better and braking is improved. I recommend this to anyone that likes twisties, will help very much. Get new tires and you have a new bike I am still waiting for the brake lines and I will be finished with moding the fz6. Gotta focus on my DR now