FZ6 DANMOTO Rearset install

[Bill]

Alrighty, finally got around to ditching the stock controls and moving onto proper rearsets. Now remember, and I echo from other threads & posts, this is a FZ6, not a Ducati, R1, BMW, etc. SO with that being said, I was very pleased with the quality of the rearsets upon arrival.

Everything came extremely well packaged. Lots and lots of bubble wrap. Pop Pop!

The rearsets came mostly assembled. I took the liberty of totally disassembling them before putting them on the bike to check everything. The rearsets come lose assembled on delivery so don't forget how to put it back together.

I'm not going to go into a complete "how 2 DIY".

bd43 did a excellent how 2 on Ottimotto rearsets a few years ago... so not to reinvent the wheel, check out his Sticky. To install these Danmoto's, basically follow what he did.

On with the pics...

 

[Bill]

After putting a few miles on them they seem pretty well made and work quite well. I have them set UP and as far BACK as they will go. Makes gripping the tank easier with your knees. Plus it makes putting your foot down easier. No more hitting the peg with your calf at a stop light. It also seems easier to transition your weight going through the turns. I dunno... maybe just my imagination trying to quantify putting them on the bike? PLUS they look a whole lot better IMHO, SO that makes it worth it, right? LOL!

There may be an issue if you position the controls DOWN and as far FORWARD as they can go. There may be an interference with the kick stand? I haven't tried this yet, as I have them where I initially positioned them, and most likely were they will stay.

 

[elus1ve]

Thanks for the post. I was wondering how the Danmoto rearset were on the FZ6, specially given they are dirt cheap compared to some others.

These rearsets look so much simpler in design than the Ottimoto I have, less moving parts etc. Changing rearset was such a nice upgrade for me since I always tended to be on my tip toe on the OEM rearset.

Is it me or is your rear brake cylinder not aligned with the rear brake control?

FYI, your should know that if ever you let you bike lay on its side, it's your footpeg that are going to take all the weight of the bike, way before your sliders. I believe the Danmoto ones allow you to replace the foot pegs with a folding ones from eBay.

 

[Bill]

Thanks for the post. I was wondering how the Danmoto rearset were on the FZ6, specially given they are dirt cheap compared to some others.

Welcome!

These rearsets look so much simpler in design than the Ottimoto I have, less moving parts etc. Changing rearset was such a nice upgrade for me since I always tended to be on my tip toe on the OEM rearset.

I'm not so sure, I think it may just be a different means to the end... everything and I mean everything has to be adjusted individually... a real PITA.

Is it me or is your rear brake cylinder not aligned with the rear brake control?

Your correct. I didn't set the length correct at that time because the spring that actuates the brake light needed to be lengthened. (bringing the shackle on the lever closer to the brake cylinder. I adjusted the peg to the spring which caused the misalignment. Once I lengthened the spring and the brake peg location was determined (up or down) everything lined up. Again a lot of adjusting to get it all together.

FYI, your should know that if ever you let you bike lay on its side, it's your footpeg that are going to take all the weight of the bike, way before your sliders. I believe the Danmoto ones allow you to replace the foot pegs with a folding ones from eBay.

Good to know! I will be looking for them here shortly!:thumbup:

pics of my wife on the FZ. Now the pegs are out of the way and she can put her feet down easily.

 

[motojoe122]

I almost pulled the trigger on those but went with oso's setback plates instead. Thanks for the info, I may do these at a later date.

 

[elus1ve]

I'm not so sure, I think it may just be a different means to the end... everything and I mean everything has to be adjusted individually... a real PITA.

The Ottimoto was a major pita too. The shifter side of the Danmoto rearset really does look simpler but I guess it could be just as annoying as the Ottimoto to get it right. The brake side looks pretty much the same. I took about 5 hours to set it properly with a lot of cursing along the way. Good job though, your rearset looks sharp on that Fizzer

A few months ago I stupidly let my Fz6 fall on the right side. It was more of a controlled fall but I was just too tired to hold the weight but did manage to slow down the fall. The right peg took most of the weight until the slider made contact. They were really the only two main contact points. Since the peg doesn't fold I was afraid the rearset would have given in or worst that it would damage the mounting points on the frame. Strangely enough all of the bolts got loose but nothing broke. Wished I could put folding pegs like the Danmoto. If ever I have to replace my rearsets, I will go with the Danmoto.

Let us know how it goes with the folding pegs. Safe riding!

 

[Bill]

Just a quick note. Today my wife rode the FZ to work. On the way home the back brake locked up just a few miles from home. Had to run out to get her and crack the bleeder to get it home. Seems the brake lever for some reason became bound up, dragging the brake and causing it to over heat and lock up. I shimmed the lever to make sure the pivot was riding on the bearing and not digging into the mount.... more adjusting.

 

[Bill]

Sorry for crap pic but this is where I needed to shim the lever so the return spring can do its job.

 

[Bill]

BTW... the spring you see is for the brake light. I was referring the the return spring in the brake cylinder.

 

[2old2ride]

I have big fat feet and do not need up and back but down and back (I think).
I don't really care what it looks like. I don't track the bike. I just need more room for my feet. I wear an 11 EEE and have trouble getting my boot under the shifter while my foot is on the peg. I have zero experience with rear sets and don't want to spend way too much money for something that won't work.

 

[Bill]

Then I would pass on these. For now. Not a lot of foot room as delivered from Danmoto... once I get folding pegs maybe that'll open up some room and I'll post up.

 

[Bill]

Then I would pass on these. For now. Not a lot of foot room as delivered from Danmoto... once I get folding pegs maybe that'll open up some room and I'll post up.

You know what... I shouldnt say that.

I haven't gone through the full range of adjustment on these yet so disregard my last.[emoji6]

Once I'm able to try different positions then I'll post.

 

[elus1ve]

If I am not mistaken, the rear brake cylinder / or the bit that connects to the cylinder is adjustable. This is critical for fine tuning the rear brake.

From your picture though, it seems you want to shim the contact points between the lever and the plate at the pivot point, is that correct? Maybe it's too tight? Shimming the parts sounds bad...

I recommend putting it on the center stand and test that the rear wheel rotate freely when done with the fine tuning.

Those after market rearsets are truly a pain to fine tune but you only have to do it once then it's done.

 

[Carlos840]

I have big fat feet and do not need up and back but down and back (I think).
I don't really care what it looks like. I don't track the bike. I just need more room for my feet. I wear an 11 EEE and have trouble getting my boot under the shifter while my foot is on the peg. I have zero experience with rear sets and don't want to spend way too much money for something that won't work.

Could it be a foot position problem?

I am also a size 11 and there is no problem getting my boot under the shifter if i ride with the ball of my foot on the peg.

The only way i could see it being an issue is if you lock your heel on the peg, which isn't a great position in the first place!

 

[2old2ride]

Could it be a foot position problem?

I am also a size 11 and there is no problem getting my boot under the shifter if i ride with the ball of my foot on the peg.

The only way i could see it being an issue is if you lock your heel on the peg, which isn't a great position in the first place!

Yep. Peg under instep. Been doing that for 49 years, so I suspect it's a habit. I'm a type 2 diabetic and don't have much feeling in my feet.
Right now I'm shifting with the lip of my boot sole. That works about 80% of the time. There is a shop nearby that will fabricate me a shift lever that is 4" longer for a 100#US or so.
Not real sure what that will do to the geometry of the linkage. Plus I am not real sure if 4" is too much or not enough. This will be my winter project so I have time to think about it and seek advice.
I think it is the 'EEE' that is giving me grief.
ATGATT. No jokes about wearing the boxes please.

 

[Bill]

Yep. Peg under instep. Been doing that for 49 years, so I suspect it's a habit. I'm a type 2 diabetic and don't have much feeling in my feet.
Right now I'm shifting with the lip of my boot sole. That works about 80% of the time. There is a shop nearby that will fabricate me a shift lever that is 4" longer for a 100#US or so.
Not real sure what that will do to the geometry of the linkage. Plus I am not real sure if 4" is too much or not enough. This will be my winter project so I have time to think about it and seek advice.
I think it is the 'EEE' that is giving me grief.
ATGATT. No jokes about wearing the boxes please.

If you look at the second pic on the OP you can see the shift rod. The longer or shorter you extend that (as with stock) the higher or lower the shift lever goes. Behind the carbon fiber heal guard is another heim joint that can be adjusted for even more movement of the shift lever. As for making the lever longer... well a machine shop will have to help you out there.