How to replace your head bearings

fazil

Junior Member
Preparing for the R6R fork swap.
I made a tool to put on the new races. But not sure if it will work.
What do you think?

 

n0other

biker wannabe
I've done the looseness check on mine having front wheel lifted, there's quite a bit of free play and clicking, the bike's at 29k miles, I expect it was ridden in the rain and the bearings never changed.

I've ordered SKF bearings, will report how they fit once I've changed them.

32005 X/Q (GSKFKB00032005-01)
32006 X/Q (GSKFKB00032006-00)
 

PFD023

Junior Member
Thank god this info is here.
Completed mine this afternoon with All Balls. Same experience with the top bearing seal.....I just said fawk it and used both. The smaller All Balls one seemed to seal the bearing ....the larger stock one covered everything.....cant hurt I guess? (fingers crossed). Patience and a propane torch and follow the tips in here about using the old lower race to tap in the new bearings...works well.
As far as the torque setting on the nut and locking nut I just tightened them until no free play in the head.....do not overtighten. My races (top and bottom) came out pretty easily......used a punch and took my time...same with goiing in with the new ones. I didn't have to freeze them....although that probably would have sped things up.
My bearings didn't look as bad as some but I did feel alot of play while braking and with the front wheel unweighted....so I decided to change them. Also read that loose head bearings may cause cupping of front tire.....guess that explains my last front tire change.
You'll see the crap that builds up on the top bearing cover after 8 years.....hence the reason the All Balls cover isn't suitable.
 
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FinalImpact

2 Da Street, Knobs R Gone
Super Moderator
Site Supporter
Thank god this info is here.
Completed mine this afternoon with All Balls. Same experience with the top bearing seal.....I just said fawk it and used both. The smaller All Balls one seemed to seal the bearing ....the larger stock one covered everything.....cant hurt I guess? (fingers crossed). Patience and a propane torch and follow the tips in here about using the old lower race to tap in the new bearings...works well.
As far as the torque setting on the nut and locking nut I just tightened them until no free play in the head.....do not overtighten. My races (top and bottom) came out pretty easily......used a punch and took my time...same with goiing in with the new ones. I didn't have to freeze them....although that probably would have sped things up.
My bearings didn't look as bad as some but I did feel alot of play while braking and with the front wheel unweighted....so I decided to change them. Also read that loose head bearings may cause cupping of front tire.....guess that explains my last front tire change.
You'll see the crap that builds up on the top bearing cover after 8 years.....hence the reason the All Balls cover isn't suitable.
Why does your bearing look to have a chunk out of the inner race? (post from 2013 and its 2014)


ALSO - anyone under the air box for any reason be sure not to knock out the vent plugs. These rubber vents attempt to vent and direct moisture away from the bearing cavity. Make sure your bike has them! All you need to do is brush against them and they fly out!


I found it an put it back! :thumbup:
 

FinalImpact

2 Da Street, Knobs R Gone
Super Moderator
Site Supporter
Don't see a chunk missing myself
This little piece here.... No reason it should be missing.... Should be a nice round radius like the rest of it. Not sure how that would happen unless made that way. bearing is pretty hard material and doesn't just come off on its own.
 

PFD023

Junior Member
This little piece here.... No reason it should be missing.... Should be a nice round radius like the rest of it. Not sure how that would happen unless made that way. bearing is pretty hard material and doesn't just come off on its own.
I think it was just grease/dirt....don't recall any chunks missing....but my memory ain't what it use to be.
 

ozgurakman

Özgür Akman
It seems probable. Can you repeat by grabbing the fork bodies and pushing & pulling or is it just up/down causing it.

Any other issues or just the clicking?
I'll try out tomorrow but no sound when doing that, if I remember true...
 
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cornerman

Junior Member
Thanks!
I took a 2005 FZ6N for a test ride a couple of nights ago and got a little clickety clunk in the steering head over a couple of bumps and a tendency of the bike to veer ever so slightly to the left. Otherwise the bike was fine and will make an excellent commuter. I googled the "steering head FZ6" and wound up joining this forum to get the good oil. Having already got my 1981 BMW R80 G/S on the work bench with the front end out, awaiting bearing puller and bearings, I found this thread most helpful and the task seems more straight forward then the 30 y/o BMW equivalent.

Thanks

This is my first post so I have no witty signature line or comprehensive list of bike owned or modifications made
 

TownsendsFJR1300

2007 FZ6
Site Supporter
Thanks!
I took a 2005 FZ6N for a test ride a couple of nights ago and got a little clickety clunk in the steering head over a couple of bumps and a tendency of the bike to veer ever so slightly to the left. Otherwise the bike was fine and will make an excellent commuter. I googled the "steering head FZ6" and wound up joining this forum to get the good oil. Having already got my 1981 BMW R80 G/S on the work bench with the front end out, awaiting bearing puller and bearings, I found this thread most helpful and the task seems more straight forward then the 30 y/o BMW equivalent.

Thanks

This is my first post so I have no witty signature line or comprehensive list of bike owned or modifications made
Wecome to the forum!!:welcome:

You'll find a wealth of information and not much that hasn't been covered.
 

2old2ride

Member
Don't know, I just got the front end back together tonight. I didn't do it for the better steering, but for the chance that my stock bearings may have self-destructed like everyone elses, which was not the case. I should mention that we are not humid here, I rode once for 8 hours in the pouring rain, and wash my bike about once every 2 weeks. I'm surprised how the stock bearings looked for the amount of water the bike gets. For those who had premature failure of their bearings, what the heck are you doing to your bikes? :confused:
I'm mostly through. I have done my first test ride (20 miles) and just took the uppers apart yesterday to do the tighten down until they friction lock then back off a half turn. I Started on the 3rd of July. I have actually worked about 12 hours on it over the two months. One thing after another.
My problem with the bearing now is that they stick up about 2 mm beyond the old ones on the upper set. The bottom fit fine. That 2 mm's is just enough to prevent me from getting the upper castle nut on. I got about a turn on it now. I'm hoping when I get it back together and take it for that final 200 miles test ride, it will settle in enough to let me get the upper castle nut all the way down. I ended up using a punch and hammer on the bottom castle nut to get enough room on the spindle to get the upper castle bolt started.
If it doesn't spin down this time, I'm thinking abouyt otdering a new upper bearing and race. I will skip those crazy fooks at all balls and order a Timkin bearing set by measurement. The set and the stock bearings are 11.98 mm, The all balls kit has a 14mm bearing in it. I have taken this sucker apart 4 times and put it back together 3. I would be out there now but it's 102 in the shade. I broke the cowl where it bolts to the bracket under the insturment panel. The super glue seems to be holding. Now all i'lI need is to find the washer that goes under the crown nut. Murphy has been having his way with me. I think it fell into the frame when I dropped it.
 
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