Is it smart to apply grease to this cylinder before putting it back in??

lonesoldier84

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when you open your rear brake:

-behind the pads a bronze coloured cylinder pushes the pads

-with the rear brake opened up, pumping the brake pedal pushes this cylinder out.

-with it out:

IS IT SMART TO APPLY GREASE TO THIS CYLINDER BEFORE PUTTING IT BACK IN??

i dont think cleaning it and putting it in is wise. it should have some kind of grease on it to allow for nice movement shouldnt it?
 

lonesoldier84

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got it all open bout to put it back together, the grease is lituim grease i am quite certain. or should i just put it back in as is after cleaning it?
 

lonesoldier84

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the stuff im calling lithium grease is a wheel bearing and chassis grease

i also have a spray can of this 6 in 1 thin film all purpose lubricant. it says it displaces water. shall i give it a squirt?
 

Norbert

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no! especially lithium grease!
they make special grease for putting on the pistons.

i would clean the area around with some car wash soap or diluted simple green, water and an old toothbrush, then push the piston back in
 

lonesoldier84

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but it wont react with the brake fluid over time or anything?

now ive put it in without any grease and it wont come back out. tho im not sure if thats because the holes in the brake lines and brake line screws line up or not. but i think theres a groove in those that makes it so it doesnt matter if the holes line up.
 

lonesoldier84

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no! especially lithium grease!
they make special grease for putting on the pistons.

i would clean the area around with some car wash soap or diluted simple green, water and an old toothbrush, then push the piston back in

ya i cleaned off the litium grease and put it back in with nothing on it. it doesnt seem to slide very well now tho. cant even get it to budge pumping the rear brake even
 

Norbert

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also, if the white lithium grease is petroleum based (many of them are), you may run the risk of deteriorating your calipers seals!!
 

lonesoldier84

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im just trying to get it back out now. it wont come out. it was dry as a bone when i put it in just seeing how it would slide. it slid in, but wont come back out now.

when installing new brake lines the little holes in the screws dont need to line with up the holes in the brake line ends right?
 

Norbert

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correct. the copper washers are supposed to form a seal.
boneman has a good write up on the new SS brake line install.

be sure to torque the banjo bolt to specs.
i had to do a little bit more because i had slightly thicker and harder crush washers...

oh, lone.... :rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes:
 

Norbert

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since your caliper piston is stuck, and you already have drained out the brake fluid, try blowing it out with compressed air, be sure to put a piece of wood to stop the caliper from coming out completely and crushing your finger to bits...

that being said, was there no brake fluid in the system when you decided it was stuck? that would prevent the caliper from coming back out. re-bleed the brake and pump your brake a few times.
 
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macem29

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are you talking about the piston in the rear caliper? if so, OMG WTF is 100%
correct, never lubricate with anything mineral based, it will swell the seals
and ruin them, they are lubricated internally with the brake fluid and bone ass
dry on the outside, I'd take it apart soonest and clean thoroughly with Brake
Clean to get the grease out of there
 

lonesoldier84

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i have the guide printed out. problem is the kit came with so many washers. i just put one each in the places the stock lines had em. they only had one each too.
 

Norbert

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are you talking about the piston in the rear caliper? if so, OMG WTF is 100%
correct, never lubricate with anything mineral based, it will swell the seals
and ruin them, they are lubricated internally with the brake fluid and bone ass
dry on the outside, I'd take it apart soonest and clean thoroughly with Brake
Clean to get the grease out of there

1 thing, dont use brake cleaner on the seals.
it will shorten their lifespan.
 

Norbert

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