Need Help New Member + 2008 questions: key, wheel lockup

[Gary in NJ]

Since you will have the brake system apart, now is a good time to install Teflon brake lines. It’s an inexpensive upgrade that makes a significant improvement to brake feel and function.

 

[grcamna7]

Since you will have the brake system apart, now is a good time to install Teflon brake lines. It’s an inexpensive upgrade that makes a significant improvement to brake feel and function.

Blue in color?
How do they improve it;better than SS braided ?

 

[Gary in NJ]

Braided Stainless Steel is the outer protective layer...the brake line itself is Teflon.

 

[grahammarsden]

I installed HEL braided brake lines on my bike and they're definitely an improvement!

 

[grcamna7]

Braided Stainless Steel is the other protective layer...the brake line itself is Teflon.

Blue color?

 

[Gary in NJ]

Blue color?

I’m partial to black because looks badass, it everyone knows that blue is fastest.

 

[grcamna7]

I’m partial to black because looks badass, it everyone knows that blue is fastest.

Which brand name do you like ?

 

[Gary in NJ]

I’ve used both Gafler and HEL… both high quality.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Well, went for a little longer zip around the neighborhood and solved the main mystery, I think.

Hit and held 60 mph on a flat stretch of low traffic road.

After about 5 miles, FRONT brakes self applied hard.

Managed to stop straight with a lot of smoke coming off front tire, didn't dump it.

Nice guy in a pickup truck pulled up behind me and helped me huff it up over the curb to get out of the road. Front brake was still applied hard.

Right caliper was way hotter than left, so guessing that is the culprit.

Will disassemble and service when I get a seal kit, but think that was the real problem that prior owner had on the expressway. He must have thought rear wheel locked, when it was really the front; go figure...

Slight update: ordered kits for all 3 calipers, along with a fork seal set.

That's what I posted earlier, the 4 pot calipers (S2), seals tend to drag and lock up over time.
My old FJR (same caliper) got very hot after just getting home from a road trip.

With that said, once the new seals are installed, they tend to last much longer for some reason..
I haven't had to replace them since.

I've never replaced the rear caliper seals..



Re brake lines, I have/like the HEL lines.

 

[grcamna7]

That's what I posted earlier, the 4 pot calipers (S2), seals tend to drag and lock up over time.
My old FJR (same caliper) got very hot after just getting home from a road trip.

With that said, once the new seals are installed, they tend to last much longer for some reason..
I haven't had to replace them since.

I've never replaced the rear caliper seals..



Re brake lines, I have/like the HEL lines.

I would also consider completely cleaning-out the front master cylinder.
There is a small bleed hole inside the reservoir,to the left that clogs easily.

 

[Ben Franklin]

Most excellent! Great progress.


Brake fluid.

Check that the front wheel calipers are releasing fully.
The four piston calipers like to stick.

Yamaha notes every 2 years to replace them. (not needed that often IME).

Lastly, do you think you can save the fork legs with the rust?


With new seals, very little drag:

https://flic.kr/p/24gHvHC

.

Bingo on the front brake caliper recommendation!

 

[Ben Franklin]

I would also consider completely cleaning-out the front master cylinder.
There is a small bleed hole inside the reservoir,to the left that clogs easily.

Will do when I tackle the rebuild! It looks a little crusty.

 

[Ben sIII]

That's what I posted earlier, the 4 pot calipers (S2), seals tend to drag and lock up over time.
My old FJR (same caliper) got very hot after just getting home from a road trip.

With that said, once the new seals are installed, they tend to last much longer for some reason..
I haven't had to replace them since.

I've never replaced the rear caliper seals..



Re brake lines, I have/like the HEL lines.

those pics make my bike look so neglected.

 

[Ben Franklin]

Will do when I tackle the rebuild! It looks a little crusty.

Yep; it was plugged big-time. Had to use a torch tip cleaner wire to get it cleared out; had a bunch of corrosion blocking it hard. You can see where it is, under the big glob of mung.

I suspect this might have been why the brakes build up pressure and locked on when the fluid got really hot, from the dragging calipers. I think it serves as some sort of return port to let fluid bleed back into the reservoir on expansion.

 

[Ben Franklin]

Update and some engine questions:

Rebuilt the front and rear brake calipers today, as well as replacing the fork seals.

Rear caliper rebuild kit included a piston; sadly the fronts did not, so spent some time polishing the pistons for reinstallation

:Before and after, using 1500 grit wetpaper and a drill with tape wrapped around a grinder wheel to spin the pistons.




Did a little disc cleanup, as well.



Front wheel axel was frozen in pretty well. Jam nutted a bolt and still couldn't get it to break loose after an hour sitting with penetrating oil and heat on the threaded end. Resorted to welding the bolt into a sacrificed 1/2" drive socket:


22" breaker bar finally did the trick. Glad that wasn't a roadside repair!


Fork tubes were pitted and rusty; a few pits were down in the seal travel area, but I thought I might give it a shot, to clean them up and see how long they go before buying new fork legs at the next seal refresh:



Was too cheap to pick up a Motion pro seal driver, this time . $7.00 at HD for a piece of PVC and an adapter coupling that was pretty close to perfect size:


The reducer coupling had an internal ridge, that when relieved by about half a mm, fit perfectly around the fork tube to center it.

The OD of the coupling required about the same relief with a grinder to perfectly sit on the seal and drive down past the retaining clip groove:



Ground the pits out with a rubber/abrasive wheel on the Dremel; feathered the edge where it went through the chrome, then went with strips of 600 grit then 1500 grit wet paper, crossways to fork travel direction. Might last a while, might not.

Rear caliper rebuild was no drama; I was pleased to see a piston in the rebuild kit.


Took it out for about a 40 mile test drive this evening. The day's work seems to have cured the sudden brake lockup that made this a free bike in the first place. Ran it up to near triple digits, after I got comfortable that the brakes no longer misbehave. Didn't try to kill me, so I will call it a win.



Will post my engine questions in the next post after this one:

 

[Ben Franklin]

Engine Questions:

Ok, this forum has been tremendously helpful in giving me advice on bringing this 2008 S2 FZ6 back from it's traumatic nap that had it sitting under a tarp for the past 6 years.

Fixed the drive train/chassis stuff that was obvious, and preventing it from driving.

Now on to the engine:

Starts cold fine. Walk up, turn key on, wait till pump stops, touch button and it lights up and idles pretty smooth, but kinda low, like maybe 600 rpm.

It does not like to rev off idle, without considerable throttle blipping to get up to 2000 rpms or so. After 2000 rpm, it pulls really strong to about 8k rpm. Opening the throttle to go above 8k rpm, might result in sudden power, or might result in a bog and less power.

It doesn't like to start hot, very well. Will light up with a whiff of starter fluid, though.

Pretty sure it is some form of fuel starvation, but I suppose it could be ignition related.

So:

Have a set of NGK Iridium plugs on their way for this week. Have not pulled a plug yet, but figured I would change them when I do. Bike overall seem quite lean, but runs cool, about 170F.

It had gas sitting in it for 6 year. Drained tank, filled it with 91 Octane; added 8 ounces of Lucas Fuel Injector cleaner. Zero visible rust in the tank.

Has a K&N air filter installed, looks to be clean and in decent condition. Airbox was pretty clean, inside.

Stuff I am suspecting:

1. Plugs are no good? Doesn't seem like that matches symptoms, though.

2. Throttle position sensor not working well?

3. Clogged injector or two?

4. Throttle body synch?

5. Thermostat stuck open?

Your brilliant thoughts???

Bike is drivable, but definitely "not right."

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

That engine should light off hot or cold with 1 (to maybe 2) seconds when running correctly TOPs...

Cold start idle is a knats hair higher and you should be able to hear the "richness" the
first15-20 seconds (for my bike in WARM SW Florida) .

I'd strongly suspect the fueling system, with the caveat of possibly two issues.

The cold start, again, slightly higher than normal idle-for a very short period of time-
Then idling down to normal.

Lackluster throttle response, something in the fuel system. I would think if the
engines rev's up fully, it would not be the injectors, however, perhaps, internally,
electronically there's an issue. To have them cleaned and checked would rule that
out.

With the time it sat, rust could still be elsewhere in the system, especially where coolant
goes up for management of cold start operation..

Gary may know more about that.

.

 

[Gary in NJ]

Regarding the pitting in the fork tube; fill each deep pit with crazy glue (or any generic equivalent) and polish it smooth. It may take a few applications. You will likely need to remove the fork to do this…but that’s nothing compared to having to replace fresh fork seals. BTW, my Amazon sourced seal driver kit works great.

The poor throttle response would be easier to diagnose if you knew the running condition of the bike prior getting its Rip Van Winkle treatment. If it was good prior to slumber I’d suspect corrosion in the throttle body temp sensor or a clogged fuel screen at the in-tank fuel pump. I’d also confirm that there aren’t any vacuum leaks. If it was running poorly prior to its period of disuse, I’d suspect a TB sync, ignition wires, plugs or maybe valve clearances if you are close to the 25,000 mile valve service.

 

[Ben Franklin]

Regarding the pitting in the fork tube; fill each deep pit with crazy glue (or any generic equivalent) and polish it smooth. It may take a few applications. You will likely need to remove the fork to do this…but that’s nothing compared to having to replace fresh fork seals. BTW, my Amazon sourced seal driver kit works great.

The poor throttle response would be easier to diagnose if you knew the running condition of the bike prior getting its Rip Van Winkle treatment. If it was good prior to slumber I’d suspect corrosion in the throttle body temp sensor or a clogged fuel screen at the in-tank fuel pump. I’d also confirm that there aren’t any vacuum leaks. If it was running poorly prior to its period of disuse, I’d suspect a TB sync, ignition wires, plugs or maybe valve clearances if you are close to the 25,000 mile valve service.

Thanks!

Prior owner says it ran great, before his "incident" on the freeway. His description is a little suspect, though.

Bike appears to be close to 100% bone stock. Only mods i have come across, so far, are the K&N airfilter and maybe heavier, progressive fork springs. (He is a big guy.)

It is a pleasure not having to work around a bunch of janky mods.

Will check out tem sensors. What temperature would you expect it to read on a 70 degree ride, at highway speed? It was reading 165f to 175f at freeway speeds. Never got hotter than that.

 

[Gary in NJ]

Sorry…I misspoke (watching football). I said TB temp sensor, I meant IAC. The IAC has a plunger that keeps the throttle body at a certain temp range. When this malfunctions it effects idle and throttle response. Member Tuning-Forks posted a good video that he found a few months back.