Old FZ6 But New To Me

TownsendsFJR1300

2007 FZ6
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The OEM nut is a special locking nut, see below pic.

If using something else (which is fine), I'd go tighter than 30 ft /lbs and use red loctite,
especially if their not OEM...

If you have to remove it later, some heat will help loosen the loctite..
You DON'T want them loosening..



Capture.JPG
 
Are you referring to chemical threadlocker ie (Loctite, 242, etc) or a mechanical thread lock such as a nylon insert (aka nylock nut) or the factory nuts which have spring tabs to tighten against the bolt as unthreading starts.
 
The OEM nut is a special locking nut, see below pic.

If using something else (which is fine), I'd go tighter than 30 ft /lbs and use red loctite,
especially if their not OEM...

View attachment 73619
Yep , I saw that when I took them off. Hardware store didn't have any of that style so I just had to grab the correct size nylock nut. My Bonneville uses that style for the rear sprocket and I've not had any issue with them backing off even without loctite (I'm pretty sure I put anti-seize on those bolts too, though none at the top where the nylon ring ends up). I trust nylocks, used them extensively on farm and industrial equipment where they're exposed to a LOT of vibration and stress that commonly works regular nuts loose (yes, even when paired with lockwashers).

And thanks for posting a picture since the description in my previous post may not have made it clear what I was referring to.
 
Hit the studs with some primer, and used a heat gun to accelerate drying. Flipped the sprocket over and put it on along with the new nuts with a dab of Loctite 222 low strength on each stud. Snugged up by hand then torch *torqued* to 30 then 40 foot pounds. With the amount moved from 30 to 40 foot pounds, I wasn't comfortable going anymore. Used a paint pen to clock /mark the position of each nut so I can see if they start to back off.

Plus more fruitless dicking with the throttle bodies.
 
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Put the rear wheel back on, flipped the front sprocket, and mounted a new drive chain. The old chain was almost all the way back on the adjustment, new one has it forward of the middle. Once I get the throttle bodies tuned and the motor running right I'll finally be able to take it out and put it through its paces.

New brake pads on the bench waiting to go on too. I'll be replacing the fluid at the same time. Braided lines will have to until I figure out the handlebar situation (I want to go with Rental Street high bars but don't know if the lines and cables will accommodate them).
 
Been away awhile (life and other hobbies). Started back in on it last night.
Totally disassembled the air bleed adjuster and idle control doohickey, cleaned it in my never ending quest to get the damnable throttle bodies to sync and get the idle up to where it is supposed to be.

It finally idles above 1000rpm when hot now and the idle screw will actually change it. But I think there's an air leak somewhere as the idle hangs for a second after blipping the throttle and when ridden the rpms didn't drop when I'd chop the throttle.
 
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