Throttle Freeplay Adjustment - Down Under

[Zealot]

Heya folks, I'm trying to tighten up my throttle freeplay a tad. Found the locknut below the throttle housing and wound that out a fair bit, but any further and it just gets wobbly and feels like it's going to fall off, so I've started looking toward the motor.

As per the manual, I loosen/tighten a specific set of nuts on the decelerator cable. Locknut #1 however appears to be bound in place by these little metal 'prongs'. #2 and #3 are kind of off underneath and it's going to be a PIA to grab them without taking off the tank (or so it appears).

Specifically, I'm interested in how you're supposed to loosen locknut #1 so that I can continue on with everything else.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

My RETURN CABLE does NOT have an adjustment to speak of (yes some threads for initial installation). Yours is the same.

The (lower) pull cable obviously can be locked/unlocked-adjusted.

As long as you have some threads on the lower PULL CABLE, just unlock the lock nut and take up the slack there.. (Mines adjusted approx 2/3's the way out-19,000 miles, original cables)

I'd put the upper handle bar adjuster back in most of the way. Just so you have some easy adjustability on the road and the plastic isn't stressed (by being out too far).


NOTE;
I just read in the S2 manual exactly what your referring to. IDK why they would go about it that way. I've had both cables off before for maintainance but re-installed as I've posted above. The above method you can do W/O pulling the tank or anything else. Been that way for 15,000 miles...


If you spun the top, LONGER bolt out, it would allow you re-adjust that "captured nut"(nut #1). However, there's no where to move it to/ or adjust it.. I'm 99% sure that TB bracket itself is NOT threaded.

 

[FinalImpact]

There should not be a need to adjust the return (top) cable. However, if you remove too much slack you will bind the double pull cable system and the throttle will stick. It needs slack so you can steer and not change RPM from bar movements.

Bottom pulls to open throttle. Shown at idle:

 

[Zealot]

Ah, thanks for the pointers guys! The manual for whatever reason seems to show that you poke around at the top locknuts...

Going to mess around with this later today. Should turn out okay!

NOTE;
I just read in the S2 manual exactly what your referring to. IDK why they would go about it that way. I've had both cables off before for maintainance but re-installed as I've posted above. The above method you can do W/O pulling the tank or anything else. Been that way for 15,000 miles...

That's exactly what brought me here. The way they explain the whole process and the steps required just seem... far out. When it's something that oughta be periodically adjusted at fairly regular intervals, you'd think they would make things simplistic and easy. Almost thought I owned a Volkswagen esque vehicle for a minute...

Edit: Whiffed a shift or two but I like where it's at now. Threw a bit of oil onto the cable, checked that turning the bars didn't change the RPM and off I went. It feels better having more control over the slack at the handlebar now, since that's a quick and easy adjustment into the foreseeable future. Thanks again!

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

There's several mistakes in the Yamaha manual that's been well documeted.

That's apparently another one.

I never paid much attention to it as just looking it, shows where it should be adjusted.

Glad you got it straigtened out! :Sport: