Valve Clearance Results

[PhotoAl]

Just finished checking my valve clearances. There has been a lot of discussion about valves and when to check so here is what I found out:

Cylinder----Exhaust-----Intake-----(clearances in MM)
1---------0.25 0.28---0.14 0.16
2---------0.28 0.27---0.15 0.15
3---------0.28 0.28---0.18 0.18
4---------0.25 0.25---0.15 0.15

Interesting that Cylinder #3 is on the loose side on both the intake and exhaust sides. The lobes look very good with no abnormal wear patterns or marks. Have been using Rotella T synthetic oil (please don't turn this into an oil thread).

Bike is a 2004 FZ6 with 30,500 miles on it. Bought it three years ago with 2,800 miles on it. Commute daily, ride the curves on occasion and take it on trips from 300 to 1,200 miles. So it has seen a mix of driving and has seen the re-line a number of times.

Hope this helps those wondering about checking or not.

Now to put everything back together, have a shim kit I will sell for a good price now that I don't need it for a while.

 

[Motogiro]

Great engine on the FZ6!

 

[mave2911]

Cylinder 3 being worse is a clear indication you should have been using Motul 7100...

It says it's especially good for the third cylinder of 4 cylinder bikes.....

LOL!

My '05 FZ6 has 29000kms (17400mi) on it, but since I use Motul 7100, I should be right for a while longer. (and thanks for your experiences, it's nice to know the Fizzer engine is so hardy)

Cheers,
Rick

 

[stink989]

Oil type might help the valves with the cam wear (bigger clearances) but won't help with the seat and valve wear (smaller clearances).

 

[ohgood]

Cylinder 3 being worse is a clear indication you should have been using Motul 7100...

It says it's especially good for the third cylinder of 4 cylinder bikes.....

LOL!

My '05 FZ6 has 29000kms (17400mi) on it, but since I use Motul 7100, I should be right for a while longer. (and thanks for your experiences, it's nice to know the Fizzer engine is so hardy)

Cheers,
Rick

Lol @ 3rd cylinder


I'm running pure organic apple and almond butter blended 50/50 by hawaiian hookers on a secret mountain top while sacrificing chickens, so I know my 3rd cylinder is going to actually LOOSEN UP back to stock, on its own.

 

[mave2911]

Lol @ 3rd cylinder


I'm running pure organic apple and almond butter blended 50/50 by hawaiian hookers on a secret mountain top while sacrificing chickens, so I know my 3rd cylinder is going to actually LOOSEN UP back to stock, on its own.

Nice! You're gonna have to hook me up! (the only juices or butter we get from the hookers here probably wouldn't be too good in a bike.....)

Just as long as it's not ONLY a cylinder 3 lubricant - I've seen some of them, whereby the molecules in the oil are only attracted to the third cylinder - much to the detriment of the 1st, 2nd and 4th cylinders.

Buyer beware I say.....

Cheers,
Rick

 

[mave2911]

Oil type might help the valves with the cam wear (bigger clearances) but won't help with the seat and valve wear (smaller clearances).

See? Right there - uninformed opinion....

With the Polytetrafluromangoalmondbananaethelyne additive, the SMALL clearances will be fine. PTFMABE has actually been known to reverse the wear, and GROW new material to maintain tolerances.

It's been certified for wet clutches, and apparently has the backing of the HHA (Hawaiian Hookers Association) too!

It's in short supply, but if we can find their hideout.....

Cheers,
Rick

 

[ohgood]

Just finished checking my valve clearances. There has been a lot of discussion about valves and when to check so here is what I found out:

Cylinder----Exhaust-----Intake-----(clearances in MM)
1---------0.25 0.28---0.14 0.16
2---------0.28 0.27---0.15 0.15
3---------0.28 0.28---0.18 0.18
4---------0.25 0.25---0.15 0.15

Interesting that Cylinder #3 is on the loose side on both the intake and exhaust sides. The lobes look very good with no abnormal wear patterns or marks. Have been using Rotella T synthetic oil (please don't turn this into an oil thread).

Bike is a 2004 FZ6 with 30,500 miles on it. Bought it three years ago with 2,800 miles on it. Commute daily, ride the curves on occasion and take it on trips from 300 to 1,200 miles. So it has seen a mix of driving and has seen the re-line a number of times.

Hope this helps those wondering about checking or not.

Now to put everything back together, have a shim kit I will sell for a good price now that I don't need it for a while.

I was kidding with you ... but seriously, yamaha knows you won't buy my secret blended butter to help out with cylinder 3's wear-in problem, so they coated it with valvosleek, a proprietary compound gleened from years of NASCAR science (in marketing). The science of removing wads of cash from unsuspecti.....

Sorry , I could not resist. So, cylinder 3 is the rebel, the hard faced rogue, un yielding, unbending for the crowd. Just because the valves of 1, 2 and 4 are making a bed-head, 3 isn't having any of it. Maybe you need to use the bluewrench on him ? He'll soften up the head eventually and act right like the others.

Oh, wait. **** !

 

[wrlomas]

See? Right there - uninformed opinion....

bwaaa haa haaaaaa.
seriously now will ptfmabe help my electrical system?

 

[mave2911]

seriously now will ptfmabe help my electrical system?

Absolutely - far better than dielectric grease, it helps the charge flow through the wires unimpeded by resistance, will give you 10-15HP, and has even been known to help sexual inadequacy. (I've heard. I've always used it, so no trouble with the custard cannon, thank you!)

The car/bike manufacturers know about it, but as they want to keep selling new cars, they've not made it public.

It's a conspiracy I tell you!

Cheers,
Rick

 

[iSteve]

Most of the time the valves seats wear causing the clearance to be tighter. So it could be that #3 is not such a rebel.

 

[FinalImpact]

Could be it was built that way too!

Care to edit the original post and throw in the spec:
Valve clearance (cold)
Intake 0.13–0.20 mm (0.0051–0.0079 in)
Exhaust 0.23–0.30 mm (0.0091–0.0118 in)

PS - I had to look at the oiling and coolant flow. The intake cam gets fed first by oil and then the exhaust cam; both are fed from the end so its not pointing the finger at condition where the feed end is healthy and components further away are starved. +++
Coolant doesn't have enough detail. My observation of engine wear on one's i've taken apart is this: the outer cylinders and valves often show more wear as they go through greater temperature swings than the cylinders in the middle of block. Take it with a grain of salt. . .