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How much over MSRP?

Neal

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I am planning on buying the Daytona 676 R 2013 listed at 13499. How much to you think it is reasonable to pay going out the door? This is going to be my first new bike and I don't now what to expect and what is reasonable fee wise.

Plan on using this for weekends, the track, and still hold on to my FZ6 for commuting and sport touring.
 
I am planning on buying the Daytona 676 R 2013 listed at 13499. How much to you think it is reasonable to pay going out the door? This is going to be my first new bike and I don't now what to expect and what is reasonable fee wise.

Plan on using this for weekends, the track, and still hold on to my FZ6 for commuting and sport touring.

That's so kool... A new 676 R.... Sweeeeeet. :cheer:

Sticker, and make them toss in a new helmet to match.:BLAA: Motorcycles are buyers market...:rockon:
 
I'm guessing for a brand new 2013 at the beginning of the year, the dealer may not give you much wiggle room because they have the whole year to sell that bike. OTD is not gonna change too much unless you avoid any dealer doc fees, but your tax, tag and title are all gonna be about the same. I've only bought one car new and it was a 2008 that I bought at the end of 2009 for 25% off the sticker price. I think that's the only time you get a deal when you buy new is if it's a previous year model.
 
This whole situation has me on edge. I am actually browsing the internet right now for class/books on how to negotiate. I would hate to be the guy that got taken at the dealer and then instead being able to enjoy myself righting my motorcycle, I would just be reminded every time I look at my motorcycle what a sucker I am.
 
This whole situation has me on edge. I am actually browsing the internet right now for class/books on how to negotiate. I would hate to be the guy that got taken at the dealer and then instead being able to enjoy myself righting my motorcycle, I would just be reminded every time I look at my motorcycle what a sucker I am.

Probably not. Your ear to ear grin will be all you can think about when you're carving it up on your Daytona. The money will seem like a distant memory...:rockon:
 
Be careful when you buy, bought a new bike in December. Live in Alabama but bought the bike in Georgia, didn't have to pay taxes in Georgia but had to pay Alabama taxes when I registered it. Great part about that is they charged me based on where I live and just so happens the city I live in does not have any discount on motorcycles (probably cars too) so paid the FULL local sales tax! That was an extra 3 or 4 hundred!!!! Can't complain too much as the tax goes mostly to the schools which are very good.
 
You should ask around on the Daytona forum....





How to negotiate.
1st rule: Be prepared to walk away.:thumbup:
 
This whole situation has me on edge. I am actually browsing the internet right now for class/books on how to negotiate. I would hate to be the guy that got taken at the dealer and then instead being able to enjoy myself righting my motorcycle, I would just be reminded every time I look at my motorcycle what a sucker I am.


Go to ebay and search for a new daytona.

Dealerships advertise there. And that's how you will find out the best price you can get at this time.

I was shopping for a vstrom. I found a great price on ebay from a dealer like 300 miles away from me. I printed it out and brought to a dealer local to me. I asked him to price match it.

I made it very clear to him that I am willing to travel within a radius of 300 miles to get a cheaper OTD price.

He can either match it and still make money or not. His loss.

Remember if you don't ask, it's an automatic NO.

PS- I don't know how set you are for the '13 model, but you might get a deep discount for a new '12 or '11 left over stock. I don't know maybe you have a magic money growing tree so do as you wish.
 
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You should ask around on the Daytona forum....





How to negotiate.
1st rule: Be prepared to walk away.:thumbup:

Well, I already did that part.. I told him I would talk to him in a couple weeks or so.

The bike has only been out a few weeks hopefully the price will drop after all the must have now buyers are done.
 
How to negotiate.
1st rule: Be prepared to walk away.:thumbup:

So key.

Also, in my opinion a dealership will work with you if you are willing to spend cash. And I don't mean just a check or deposit. This might sound crazy, but bring the money in cash that you want to spend, and make them an offer.

It is hard to turn away green when you look at in a backpack/briefcase. Plus, if they say no then you can't go higher. That's all you brought with you. Then go straight back to the bank and put the money back in a safe....lol
 
So key.

Also, in my opinion a dealership will work with you if you are willing to spend cash. And I don't mean just a check or deposit. This might sound crazy, but bring the money in cash that you want to spend, and make them an offer.

It is hard to turn away green when you look at in a backpack/briefcase. Plus, if they say no then you can't go higher. That's all you brought with you. Then go straight back to the bank and put the money back in a safe....lol

Don't bring in all the money.

I know car dealerships make a lot of money on kick backs from the manufacturers if the customer finances through the car maker's finance division.

So don't tell them that for example you can pay for the whole bike in cash. they will think that if you have so much cash around, you won't say no to a higher prices and extra fees etc.
 
Don't bring in all the money.

I know car dealerships make a lot of money on kick backs from the manufacturers if the customer finances through the car maker's finance division.

So don't tell them that for example you can pay for the whole bike in cash. they will think that if you have so much cash around, you won't say no to a higher prices and extra fees etc.

You're right in that all of the cash on hand is probably not a good idea....lol....

I'm just of the opinion that paying cash is better than financing...when at all possible. I've always thought you can get a better deal.
 
You're right in that all of the cash on hand is probably not a good idea....lol....

I'm just of the opinion that paying cash is better than financing...when at all possible. I've always thought you can get a better deal.


It really depends. It's all about cost of opportunity here.

I personally wouldn't buy a new sports bike or a car for that matter.

The depreciation the first few years is usually bad. It just depends how much you really want a new bike.

I personally prefer to buy used bikes in a mint condition.

You can get a better deal on a used bike that might have let's say 10k miles.
If it's a 3 year old bike that. 3.3 k miles per riding season. That is not much really.

I almost pulled the trigger on a new '12 Suzuki V-strom with 0 downpayment and 0% apr for 5 years. That's just asking to get the bike.
 
OP, I'd head over to the Triumph forums and ask them what they paid OTD for a new 675R for 2011 & 2012. Relative to MSRP, you should have a good idea what to expect.
Triumph675.Net
Triumph Forum: Triumph Rat Motorcycle Forums


PS- I don't know how set you are for the '13 model, but you might get a deep discount for a new '12 or '11 left over stock. I don't know maybe you have a magic money growing tree so do as you wish.

I would NOT try for a left over 2011 or 2012. The 2013 has huge improvements over the last model. The most important being the suspension setup, giving the front end more confidence mid-corner. For some reason, the last one would be good, good, good, then suddenly wash the front without warning. The new setup communicates a lot better to the rider. It also just looks the tits.
 
I don't know that bike had updates over the last few years. Get whatever you feel you are comfortable with. Had I had the money I would go for the '13 model as well from what you are telling me.
 
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