Radiator leak

[Erci]

Noticed coolant smell and a bit of antifreeze collected at the bottom of lower fairing after last ride.
Pulled the fairings off and let the bike warm up.. sure enough, got a leak

It appears to be leaking right from the seam (no signs of coolant higher up or near hoses). The warmer the engine, the more pronounced the leak.
Any way to repair this short of replacing radiator ($$$)? I'm not looking for a cheap fix though.. it has to be done right, since this is a track bike and I don't want to someone to crash on my account.\

P.S. the crap on the side of the radiator is weatherstripping glue.. standard from factory.. I'm guessing it's used as a heat shield between rad and fairing.

 

[motojoe122]

The only experience I've had with something like that is Belzona. It's similar to JB Weld but stronger. While in the middle of a south patrol (378ft ship) we got a pinhole leak in an elbow of a pipe of the cooling to the main diesel engine. I was able to layer the Belzona enough to ( at a minimum ) get us home in another 2 months. Remember, we were at sea where you really don't have a plan B, so this really worked for us.

 

[Humperdinkel]

Are the end caps of the radiator metal or plastic on them ??? If they are metal then I'm guessing a good solder/brazing should get it all fixed up :thumbup: but if they are plastic , which sadly many are these days it'll need replacing

 

[Erci]

Are the end caps of the radiator metal or plastic on them ??? If they are metal then I'm guessing a good solder/brazing should get it all fixed up :thumbup: but if they are plastic , which sadly many are these days it'll need replacing

End caps are metal. I'm concerned about repair failing though. As I mentioned.. dumping coolant on track could mean other riders going down or at the least a red flag.

Found used radiators on eBay between $60 and $150, but also not sure it's a wise way to go. Can't really confirm they're good till the install.. which does take a fair bit of time.

 

[QwickFliCk]

damn that doesnt look too good bc its the side of the radiator if it was the mesh part i could help u out. might have to replace so u dont have to be "that guy" at the track

 

[Erci]

might have to replace so u dont have to be "that guy" at the track

Exactly .. oh well.

 

[FZ09Bandit]

Replace, don't brazen, don't sodder, and definetly don't stop leak.

Atleast you caught it. Nothing is better than piece of mind. Don't just rig it up. That's for the birds.

The only thing I've ever had brazened was a radiator out of a 50 model chevy lol, you can understand why I just didn't replace it

 

[Erci]

Replace, don't brazen, don't sodder, and definetly don't stop leak.

Atleast you caught it. Nothing is better than piece of mind. Don't just rig it up. That's for the birds.

The only thing I've ever had brazened was a radiator out of a 50 model chevy lol, you can understand why I just didn't replace it

Yeah, I'm gonna give a used one a try. If it's no good, brand new is $240 from partshark.. not completely terrible.

 

[Erci]

$60 used radiator (eBay) is on. No leaks!! :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

The joint is likely soldiered. If you scratch the surface where its leaking you'll see silver soldier or brass (brazed in).

If you have torches (even a propane torch) as long as its cleaned well, you can easily braze or soldier it back in. Its simply an end cap for the radiator. Just make sure the adjacent filler is liquified for a good solid weld. Let it air cool as well.

I used to, ages ago, (when I was kid and couldn't afford to buy new) repair auto radiators just like that. Even the rows running down the middle, if leaking, just crimp and soldier.

If your not comfortable with doing it yourself, any automotive radiator shop can repair it. They usually also pressure test it before it leaves the shop, should be considerably cheaper too.. :thumbup:

 

[FinalImpact]

Are the end caps of the radiator metal or plastic on them ??? If they are metal then I'm guessing a good solder/brazing should get it all fixed up :thumbup: but if they are plastic , which sadly many are these days it'll need replacing

Vibes crack the solder - and radiators have been repaired since the beginning of time. Pull, take it to a known good radiator shop, they'll confirm the leak, pop the tanks, re-wet them with fresh solder and from there, I suggest you take it home and prep for paint. They'll apply some, but its often sticky for days.

Could be as little as $40 and be good as knew. I've done a few but you need the proper equipment. It can't hurt to ask.

EDIT: I see the ebay thing in the middle of thread - this could be good back up. Solder "work hardens" and gets brittle from the heat cycles pressurizing the tanks. I would NOT heat them and attempt re-flow. Have the tanks pulled. With the right tools its done and back together in 20 minutes.

 

[FinalImpact]

Also, this is a ridiculously small detail, but moving the clamp closer to the dimple on the pipe allows the hose to seal at the bulge in the fitting vs solely relying on the clamp. So pull the hose and clamp towards back towards the hose barb a bit.

This way should the hose collapse a little bit over time, it reduces the chances of it leaking.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Vibes crack the solder - and radiators have been repaired since the beginning of time. Pull, take it to a known good radiator shop, they'll confirm the leak, pop the tanks, re-wet them with fresh solder and from there, I suggest you take it home and prep for paint. They'll apply some, but its often sticky for days.

Could be as little as $40 and be good as knew. I've done a few but you need the proper equipment. It can't hurt to ask.

Wish I woulda said that... Heck, I did!!

+1 on the re-paint too, they usually use some cheap stuff that takes forever to dry...:thumbup:

 

[FinalImpact]

Wish I woulda said that... Heck, I did!!

+1 on the re-paint too, they usually use some cheap stuff that takes forever to dry...:thumbup:

I skipped to the finish line w/out reading the whole thread. My bad!

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I skipped to the finish line w/out reading the whole thread. My bad!

I did forget about tha nasty black paint they use, must be the cheapest stuff they can find.

Should you go this route Erci, just invest in some good, brand name, heat paint and paint the radiator yourself.

IMO, I'd go this route as the radiator is pretty much refurbished (short of being brand new).

 

[Erci]

All great advice.. thanks, fellas!!

The one on there now is used, but leak-free (at least based on initial install + fill + let fully warm up) test.

I'll keep the old leaky one as a spare and if I should ever need it, I'll do what you suggest it: radiator shop + paint it myself. :thumbup:

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

All great advice.. thanks, fellas!!

The one on there now is used, but leak-free (at least based on initial install + fill + let fully warm up) test.

I'll keep the old leaky one as a spare and if I should ever need it, I'll do what you suggest it: radiator shop + paint it myself. :thumbup:

Didn't realize it was over a week, oh well... The bikes rolling again, thats what counts, ride safe..:thumbup: