airbox mod need retune?

[06fiz600]

So, I've been lurking for awhile here.
I bought my fz6 in November and have already gotten loads of useful info on the FE kit, bd43's headlight mod, and I'm thinking about the airbox mod next.

My question is, would a retune be necessary after opening up the airbox?

 

[galland1]

IMHO no retune is necessary 'cause all it really does in make the intake louder. At least a .00015 perceived HP.:BLAA:

 

[Ridgeback]

Doh not this again :banghead:
Up to you fella,but read the thread on here about it before you start cutting :thumbup:

 

[reiobard]

my bike was a lil boggy after cutting mine, but it got better as the ECU re-learned the air ratio.

 

[SANGER_A2]

my bike was a lil boggy after cutting mine, but it got better as the ECU re-learned the air ratio.

I unplugged my battery for a few hours when I did it and it reset the ECU. Runs great. This is recommended when you do anything that will mess with the intake/back pressure.

I originally did it to reduce the whistling sound really, but when I got the decat pipe, the reduced back-pressure actually made the engine noise increase quite a bit.

 

[06fiz600]

Okay, cool so that'd be the easiest way, to unplug the battery. Just getting to know her during the winter. :thumbup:

 

[heath_AU]

Hey - so can anyone confirm that discon the batt for more than 30 seconds will allow my ecu to be retuned to suit the airbox cut?

mine seems to have lost a little of very bottom end (although still ok) but is using a bit more fuel since. (approx 20% more fuel consumption)

so i should give this a try then?

 

[SANGER_A2]

Hey - so can anyone confirm that discon the batt for more than 30 seconds will allow my ecu to be retuned to suit the airbox cut?

mine seems to have lost a little of very bottom end (although still ok) but is using a bit more fuel since. (approx 20% more fuel consumption)

so i should give this a try then?

Definitely! It made a massive difference every time I made a change to the intake/output system on my bike. It would be lumpy and horrible if I didn't. even with a stock bike it couldn't do any damage so there is nothing to lose in doing it. If you bike broke every time your battery was disconnected for a bit then it couldn't be serviced!

 

[Motogiro]

There is a basic map for fuel managment on the ECU. This map can not be altered with out having the ECU reflashed. You can alter fuel mapping with aftermarket fuel controllers like Dynojet, Bazzaz (sp?), Juice box etc.
On many types of ECU's there is what is called "Volatile Memory" This is an area that stores info recorded by the ECU after many cold starts. It records basic setting based on things like TPS, MAF, MAP, Air temp, O2 sensor etc
I got my ECU so messed up once the bike just puffed and popped out black smoke and wouldn't start. I unhooked the battery and ran a jumper across the positive and negative terminals (not the battery!) to make sure I dumped any capacitor that held voltage in the front end of the ECU. This would hopefully dump the bad info held in volatile memory. When I hooked the battery back up the bike started right up and ran great. Remember the battery must be out of circuit! Don't jump across the battery!

I've never seen technical confirmation on this to reset the ECU's volatile memory on the FZ6 but it did do a reset for me. Some vehicles have a set of sequences you must go through to tell the ECU to reset.

 

[SANGER_A2]

I unhooked the battery and ran a jumper across the positive and negative terminals

Not sure this is a great thing to post here where people may copy! If you leave the bike unhooked for long enough the capacitors will discharge anyway. I leave mine overnight.

A pic of the ECU terminals you jumped would be useful here before people start setting themselves on fire shorting out their batteries!

-

 

[Motogiro]

Not sure this is a great thing to post here where people may copy! If you leave the bike unhooked for long enough the capacitors will discharge anyway. I leave mine overnight.

A pic of the ECU terminals you jumped would be useful here before people start setting themselves on fire shorting out their batteries!

-

First, Thank you for your concern! :rockon:

Never said to jump any ECU terminals. Also I said to disconnect the battery.

To tell the truth there are going to be people who disconnect the positive terminal first instead of the negative first when they disconnect a battery.
Not all will benefit or understand that sequence but I will give people the benefit of believing they possess enough intelligence that if they have a wrench on a bike they have done some research and understand instruction from trusted sources and interpret what has been written.
I also expect people to take some responsibility for their actions and I would hate for us to stop giving service, advice and experience to our forum community if we have to believe that people are going to misinterpret and harm themselves or their bikes.

On that post it is written in large bold lettering as a caution.

I did forget to advise that when working in any of these areas whether mechanical or electrical, Wear safety eyewear, earwear or appropriate safety protection for the job.

 

[SANGER_A2]

First, Thank you for your concern! :rockon:

Never said to jump any ECU terminals. Also I said to disconnect the battery.

I think I understand now! Do you mean jump the positive/negative connectors on the BIKE that you bolt onto the battery?

That would make more sense! Might be an idea to leave the bike disconnected for half-hour or so beforehand to do that for most of the saved-up charge to go away.

 

[Marthy]

Not sure this is a great thing to post here where people may copy! If you leave the bike unhooked for long enough the capacitors will discharge anyway. I leave mine overnight.

A pic of the ECU terminals you jumped would be useful here before people start setting themselves on fire shorting out their batteries!

-

I did that many time with cars. Good way to remove alarm... (engine check light) You just need to do it the proper way. Disconnect the + and ground it the the - side of the battery for few second.

Nothing is idiot proof... How many time you've heard people striping drain plug while performing oil change... If you can't spin wrenches, let the qualified people do the job. I'm not pointing to anyone, just in general.

 

[mrphotoman]

The only way to tell if you need a retune is to stick a wideband O2 sensor in there and do a few WOT runs to see what your a/f ratio is. You will be a little leaner with more air coming in but I doubt it would be a significant difference to make it of concern.

 

[Motogiro]

I think I understand now! Do you mean jump the positive/negative connectors on the BIKE that you bolt onto the battery?

That would make more sense! Might be an idea to leave the bike disconnected for half-hour or so beforehand to do that for most of the saved-up charge to go away.

Yes just jump the Pos. and Neg. terminal/lead wires for a minute with no battery connected.

I've never seen an actual rated time for the discharge on the FZ6 ECU from a technical manual. I don't know whether it's 30 minutes or an hour. I do know that if I cross the terminal (no Battery) it should discharge the front end ECU capacitors and dump the volatile memory. It might even do it in 1 or 2 minutes but I don't have any data on that. I do know I messed my ECU up once and got it to reset quickly using this method.