Bike doesn't have the right pull?

2wheelieadv

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I don't know if I imagining this, but I feel like my bike (2006, 35k mi) is working too hard, especially in lower gears, and off the start. It still pulls good, but sounds as it has to work harder/busier to get there. Has anyone experienced it?
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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Have you ever replaced the brake caliper seals?

At the very least, take the bike for a ride, maybe to 50 MPH, then stop with the rear brake only. Now feel the front rotors, they should be cool-cold. If their hot, their dragging and need servicing.

Do the same for the rear, stop with the fronts, then feel the rear rotor, same thing.

With time, miles, etc, the rubber seals harden up, pistons don't retract and the brakes will drag. Bad enough, they'll turn your rotors blue.
BTW, Yamaha recommends replacement every TWO YEARS. I've found 4-5 years in real life. That's on both my
FZ and last 2004 FJR (same front calipers), S2.
 
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2wheelieadv

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Well, when the bike is on a center stand, I can easily spin the wheels. It's slightly touching the pads, but it's normal...
 

FinalImpact

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What engine oil is in it and how old is it? I'm gonna bash Mobil One as I drained it after 2000mi as was running warmer, shifting was notchy, engine was noticeably louder, and it just didn't rev quick or smooth. Like it was as you described, "working too hard".
Amsoil was on sale so I tried that and have never went back...

I'm just saying, don't discount the engines life blood or the quality of fuel you burn. These things matter and not all products are the same!
 

2wheelieadv

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I tried different fuel's grades with the same result. Buy yes, I'm running Mobile1. Maybe you have a point there...
 

fmf

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Clutch issue maybe? Mine acted similar and I found that my clutch lever pivot point was dirty and gummed up just enough that it wouldn't disengage the clutch 100%, but only maybe 98% when the lever was let out.
 

FinalImpact

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I tried different fuel's grades with the same result. Buy yes, I'm running Mobile1. Maybe you have a point there...

Well, the count excluding yourself is at 4 of us who noticed this with that product. You have my attention and I am curious if you'll feel the difference.
How many miles on that oil thats in it?
 

2wheelieadv

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"How many miles on that oil thats in it? " - I think 2-3k miles
Clutch? I'll check that too
 

FinalImpact

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You gonna try a new flavor? If so, let us know but I recall it was around 1700 mi and at 2000 mi I dumped it. It made huge difference.
 

2wheelieadv

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You gonna try a new flavor? If so, let us know but I recall it was around 1700 mi and at 2000 mi I dumped it. It made huge difference.
Yes, I'll replace it when get a chance. Interesting thing is that it's a reoccurring condition. Sometimes the bike runs like a champ, and other times it puts effort. Maybe a warmer weather also influence on it. (Oil?)
I also heard good reviews about Shell Rotella T6
 

fmf

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Yes, I'll replace it when get a chance. Interesting thing is that it's a reoccurring condition. Sometimes the bike runs like a champ, and other times it puts effort. Maybe a warmer weather also influence on it. (Oil?)
I also heard good reviews about Shell Rotella T6

That sounds even more like the clutch not fully disengaging since it is intermittent. You might want to lube the cable, but first check that pivot point and take the clutch lever out and clean where it seats into the part that clamps to the bar. Also, what tipped me off to it on mine was that when it was doing it, I could clear it up by pushing my clutch lever forward.
 

FinalImpact

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That sounds even more like the clutch not fully disengaging since it is intermittent. You might want to lube the cable, but first check that pivot point and take the clutch lever out and clean where it seats into the part that clamps to the bar. Also, what tipped me off to it on mine was that when it was doing it, I could clear it up by pushing my clutch lever forward.

You must be implying clutch slip because it is not fully engaged. Disengaging is the act of disconnecting the power transfer from the engine to the transmission.

I don't think that's his problem! Likely just a typo based on the description.
 

fmf

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You must be implying clutch slip because it is not fully engaged. Disengaging is the act of disconnecting the power transfer from the engine to the transmission.

I don't think that's his problem! Likely just a typo based on the description.

Yeah, that's what I mean
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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Something you may consider using is Yamaha's "RingFree".

Its a fuel system and top end cleaner EXTREMELY popular in the marine world.

I use it in EVERY gas engine/vehicle I own including the FZ. In the FZ, I can literally feel when its not in the tank.
The idle is noticeably smoother, just seems to run better. You can run it at 2-3 times the recommended amount W/O
incident (or for a suspect fuel system).

It certainly can't hurt anything (your wallet some) and it works way better than Seafoam, Tectron, etc..

My 2 cts..
 

2wheelieadv

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Suddenly it started to run fine again, so I decided to wait. But yesterday after I filled it up at Hess, it works harder again. Dono... I tried super and regular, but see no difference. Air filter (K&N) is still good.
I think it is running better in colder temps though. Maybe I should try this Yamaha's "RingFree".
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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Sounds like some crappy fuel... I like Shell regular

BTW, NEVER fill up when the tanker truck is filling up the in ground tanks at the gas station. All the
crap / water gets mixed up and you pump it into your tank....
 
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FinalImpact

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If it seems temperature related, I'd dump the oil in favor or something else...
 
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