Bike won’t turn over and start

Gabbo

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Hi All,

First time posting on here.

I had my bike in the garage and forgot to connect up the trickle charger. Obviously when I tried to start it for first ride of the year it was flat as a pancake. Left the trickle charger on for a few days and then the bike fired up great. Rode to work and back a few times 8 miles each way. The. Went to start it last week and wouldn’t start. Out the trickle charger on again and tried it yesterday. Started first time so left the bike to idle and run up to temperature then switched off. Went to ride bike to work this morning and bike wouldn’t start. Just getting a clicking noise. I’ve got the fairing off and fuel tank up so I can access the battery terminals.

Does anyone know what voltage I should expect across the battery terminals

a) for a healthy fully charged battery with key in off position.
b) should I get the bike running, the voltage to expect that would show a problem with the charging circuit. Regulator/Rectifier etc.

Any help would be appreciated.

For info it’s a FZ6 2004. Headlights disconnected to remove drain on battery before starting.
 

darius

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99% you simply need a new battery- its ability to deliver current is mostly likely shot. That's why you get clicking instead of the whine from the fuel pump priming.

The battery should read about 12.6V or higher fully charged. You can monitor the voltage at the terminals as you key on and the voltage will plummet which will all but confirm the battery is bad, but there's no reason at this point to suspect that your electrical system has a fault.
 

ShoopCE

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Gabbo,

I agree the problem is likely to be the battery and not the charging system.

It is also possible that the battery isn't completely dead. This bike doesn't put out enough current while idling to put any charge into the battery. It might actually drain it a bit while idling. After any jump start or short charging session you need to take it for a ride with the engine above 3000 rpm or so.

All that being said, it might be time to replace the battery anyway. They do not do well if left fully discharged for a while so it might not be able to hold as much charge for as long as one will that has not been damaged.

Chris
 

Gabbo

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99% you simply need a new battery- its ability to deliver current is mostly likely shot. That's why you get clicking instead of the whine from the fuel pump priming.

The battery should read about 12.6V or higher fully charged. You can monitor the voltage at the terminals as you key on and the voltage will plummet which will all but confirm the battery is bad, but there's no reason at this point to suspect that your electrical system has a fault.

Thanks I’ll try a new battery first. Ive looked on the motobatt website but cannot find my model bike on their drop down. Any suggestions as to what battery model I’ll need?

Dealer quoted me £80 for a replacement.
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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Gabbo

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Agreed, the battery is probably toast.

However, have it LOAD TRESTED to confirm it's the issue. Most auto shops will do it for free.

FYI, here's a video of my bike (battery needing replacing, dual head light mod, cold start). Mine DOES CHARGE at idle, not much but it's definitely not draining:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/147134237@N06/29303851750/in/dateposted/


Battery Type: YT12B-BS

Yuasa Batteries - Powersports

Thanks Scott. Video was really helpful.

Just tried to start bike after battery on charge for 24hrs and no joy. Ordering a new on tonight.

The one thing I have noticed though is that when the garage have had the bike or previous Owen has snapped both the fixings for the fairing close to the instrument cluster. It looks like they have made a temporary repair. Not sure what with though. Any ideas what will be best thing to use? I was thinking of clearing it up and then getting some aroldyte (hopefully spelt correctly) and gluing them back on.
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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The one thing I have noticed though is that when the garage have had the bike or previous Owen has snapped both the fixings for the fairing close to the instrument cluster. .

Can you post a picture of what got broke?

If the shop broke something on the bike, I'd have them make it right.

IE replace the part they damaged...
 

Gabbo

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Can you post a picture of what got broke?

If the shop broke something on the bike, I'd have them make it right.

IE replace the part they damaged...

15D07D34-DA86-4260-BC1A-691F100E78EB.jpgE60DE7D2-EA42-452A-9178-26BF5DC6D03A.jpg7A72C743-6AB4-4AB9-8EFE-2266CEA9897F.jpgBEE0600F-EE6D-4A5C-B40C-C0E0527AFF5C.jpg
Hopefully pictures uploaded. Doing it from phone. So not the best.

Update.....

So, new battery got delivers today. Had to put the acid in etc. While that was being left for the acid to react in the battery I hd a go at reattaching the fixings for fairing bolts. Ended up using an epoxy. Feels pretty solid in fairness. Leaving it over night to completely cure then will put the fairing back on tomorrow.

Put the new battery in and fired up first time. Scott that video helped loads. Got pretty much exactly what you were getting before and after starting the bike and increasing the revs too.

Happy Days. Back on the road!!!

:Sport::Sport::Sport::Sport::Sport:
 
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TownsendsFJR1300

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Glad to hear it!!

Did you put the freshly filled battery on a trickle charger (2 amps or less) until fully charged?

Just an FYI, the battery, just put straight into use is about 80% charged. It's recommended to fully charge as it'll extend the life of the battery.
 

Gabbo

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Glad to hear it!!

Did you put the freshly filled battery on a trickle charger (2 amps or less) until fully charged?

Just an FYI, the battery, just put straight into use is about 80% charged. It's recommended to fully charge as it'll extend the life of the battery.

I hadn’t. But I have done first thing this morning. Thanks for that. I asked the battery supplier and they just said it’s fine.
 
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