Chain and Sprocket replacement

[Jakib2]

I recently traded someone on craiglist for a 2005 FZ6. I'm really enjoying her so far but the chain definitely needs to be replaced. Just reached around 20k but the previous owner drove her really hard.

I'm having trouble finding the exact chain and sprocket I need to buy. I plan on getting it online as cheap as I can and bringing it in for install to a local shop.

I use my bike mostly for going to and from school and to the gym. Mostly city driving stop and go not over 50mph.

I've read so far that I would want to go with a 530 chain? Possibly -1? I'm pretty new to chain drives and am a little confused. How many links should I be looking for? 120? Is the -1 in relation to the chain # or the sprocket specs? I can't find anything in the manual.

Right now when I up and down shifting she is very jerky. The chain is pretty rusted and the back tire has got a ton of white powder. The previous owner says he lubed it a lot but I'm coming from a shaft drive so I want it to ride as smooth as possible.

At the same time I'm not trying to change the chain too much or spend that much money being the broke college student that I am.

Anyone have any suggestions/info/help? Thanks a bunch!

 

[JeffSez59]

Correct on the 530 for the chain size, and the 1 you speak of I believe their speaking about going 1 tooth up on the counter sprocket (front little one) which will lower the gearing (less acceleration, more top end) reducing the rpms for a giving speed. On the chain length I'm not sure since I have yet to change mine and actual look at what I need but I do plan on going 1 up on the counter sprocket. And remember it's easier to take links out than put back in so buy larger if your not sure and invest in a chain breaker. Good luck

Sent from my HTC6435LVW using Tapatalk

 

[Jakib2]

Thanks for the response! So basically you would want to get one that is 120 chains long and then adjust it to your bike/ how you want to ride it?

Also is there any brands that you suggest that are a good balance of quality and price? do you suggest buying a chain sprocket combo or buying them separately?

 

[jbwaterman84]

http://www.600riders.com/forum/how-to-s-/51777-replacing-chain-sprockets-renthals.html

 

[Carlos840]

-1 would actually mean going for a 15t sprocket instead of a 16t, +1 would be going to a 17t.

+1 would give you theoretically more top speed, but less low down torque. Better fuel economy.

-1 would give you theoretically less top speed, but more low down torque. Worst fuel economy.

I say theoretically because apparently your top speed will stay the same with a 15t and a 16t, the FZ6 top speed is limited by it's lack of power, not by gearing. so in theory your top speed should remain the same (136mph actual speed).
If you where to put a 17t sprocket, i doubt the engine would have enough power to actually give you more top speed.

One thing to note is that a 15t sprocket will render your speedo and odometer inaccurate. This can be fixed using a speedohealer. The 17 sprocket on the other hand will make it more accurate.

I personally have a 15t sprocket and love it, IMO it is the best mod you can do to get "more power".

Regarding the chain, i would use a DID o ring, that's what is on the bike stock, and it works well for most people. Buying the cheapest brand around isn't always a good plan.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

If your newish to the bike and based on your riding habits, IMO, I stick with the stock grearing ratio's. Good MPG's, good acceleration, (with -1 up front it will be more "peppy").

The stock chain is 118 links . When I orderd my chain, it came in a 120 link lenth. The installer can cut off two links. Even if you go down or up one link, 118 should do it.

Get at least a DID, O-ring type chain. Do NOT cheap out there. You will be replacing it MUCH sooner if you do..

The lighter chain BTW, will not last as long as the stocker, it is lighter.

BTW, either brng the owners manual or the below pic for the installer. The free play, up and down [lay of the chain should be about 2" (much more than most bikes). Alot of shops tend to overtighten the chain.


For admin and copyright crap, being its a picture of the manual and not a PDF pulled from a manual, I would think it'd be fine.

For the op, heres a link for an owners manual (free-same info) should you need it: Boneman's FZ6 Site - Mods

 

[iSteve]

I just went with a X-Ring chain, internet wisdom says X-Ring is the best way to go for longevity. Not sure if thats true but I'm not going to argue with the internet.

 

[Jakib2]

Thanks for all the info. Very helpful

So Im looking at getting either a DID or X-Ring Chain 530/120

I'm assuming I need to replace the front and rear with a new chain.

Front 16t
Rear 46t

What brand of sprockets are good? Does it matter?

Does this look like a good option?

DID Bikebandit Chain and Sprocket

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Thanks for all the info. Very helpful

So Im looking at getting either a DID or X-Ring Chain 530/120

I'm assuming I need to replace the front and rear with a new chain.

Front 16t
Rear 46t

What brand of sprockets are good? Does it matter?

Does this look like a good option?

DID Bikebandit Chain and Sprocket

I stuck with the OEM sprockets and the VX series chain (top of the line-which came @120 links). BTW, the Yamaha chain is one continuous chain with NO master link.

That price for the kit doesn't look bad at all. Says their DID sprockets (I don't have experiance with them but just the name alone, I would be ok with it)

Chain spec's: D.I.D. Racing Chains & DirtStar® Rims


Now to stir it up some.
Torque spec's for the rear sprocket nuts in the manual is 72 Ft lbs. They are self locking nuts with threaded studs (NOT pushed into the sprocket hub).

With several known stripped sprocket studs (not alot), just be forwarned, IMO, its way too tight. There are several mistakes in the Yamaha manual, I believe this is one of them, AGAIN IMO. If it was my bike, I'd stop at 45 ft lbs and maybe some red loctite.

Your mechainic will likely tighten to what he feels like. I would just ask him, when done, if there where any issues with ANY of those 6 nuts/studs, if he torqued them, what he got them to... You just don't want to ride off with one of those studs stripped/not tight. If you can, watch the rear sprocket install, they'd be NO DOUBT, its good and no issues..

 

[MattR302]

A couple of my riding buddies just got their chains/sprockets from sprocketcenter.com - you can get a kit with the exact size chain you need.

I say go with stock sizes for everything, and steel for the sprockets for longer wearing.

 

[iSteve]

Thanks for all the info. Very helpful

So Im looking at getting either a DID or X-Ring Chain 530/120

X-Ring is a type of chain using X shaped seals instead of the usual O-rings. Many manufactures make X-ring including DID, RK and EK.