Clutch Cable Fail

[TheRustySpork]

Hi Everyone

While riding to work the other day the clutch lever got stuck when i pulled it in to change gears, i managed to nurse it home.

I originally thought this was due to lack of cable lube, so today i went to lube it and discovered that the cable had actually sawed its way through the metallic part of the outer cable close to the lever! so i am in need to replace it. (The cable is OEM and 2 years old and regularly lubed)

so my question is, has anyone else had a similar experience and is it best to replace it with another OEM part or should i go for another manufacturer?

thanks

 

[FinalImpact]

WOW!
08 w/23,000mi on OEM cable. Lube it with engine oil about 3X per season. No issues. Just as it gets crunchy, perhaps a little more reistance it gets oil and as I ride it frees up and its good to go for couple more months.


I would still buy OEM. Not sure what happened there.

 

[odachi13]

I had this happen to me, cable snapped and got a bit hairy.
DON'T buy from ebay, bought from 2 different companies both were too long.

Wemoto carry the OEM and this one which did work fine for me:
Yamaha FZ6-S Fazer Non ABS / Floating Calipers (5VX) 04-05 Clutch Cable - Slinky Glide (Alternative) Parts at Wemoto - The UK's No.1 On-Line Motorcycle Parts Retailer

Also worth checking the cable return spring down the clutch on the right hand side make sure its not stretched or loose

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I've never heard of a complete clutch cable failure(on the FZ), stretch from wear, stiff from no lube, but nothing like you have.. What are you using for lube?

No doubt, I'd stick with an OEM cable.

I'm on the original cable with 20,000 miles, mid adjuster adjusted out maybe 2/3's. There's easily another 10,000 miles on it.

**As a side note, its hard to get to BUT much easier to swap out IF you cut out the plastic frame to cable retainer on the inside of the left frame. The cable won't go anywhere and you can swap cables without pulling the tank, air box, etc. I cut that retainer out probably 4 years ago (again, there's really no place for the cable to go)

 

[VEGASRIDER]

I'm surprised about the OEM failure as well, mine was swapped out after 70k miles, only because I wanted to, not because I had to. As previously mentioned,along with others who have replaced their OEM cables with some other brand or after market that they did have issues with the length. So I strongly suggest you stick with the OEM. And it is a big PIA to swap out the cable unless you try Scott's method.

 

[TheRustySpork]

Hi everyone thank you all for your input its interesting as this is now the 3rd cable the bike had had to my knowlange (All OEM)

I have been lubing the cable almost every month with Yamalube 10w-40 with a hydraulic oilier. it never seems to be free moving for more than a few days, i think this was due to the cable sawing its way through.

I have just picked up a brand new OEM cable from the dealers, and will fit it tonight. i will take a photo of the old one so that everyone knows what im talking about.

im not going to lube the cable before intall or anything like that, is this the correct way to do it. or should i run some lube down it before use? ive heard conflicting advice on this matter before.

Thanks everyone

 

[raja777m]

I've never heard of a complete clutch cable failure(on the FZ), stretch from wear, stiff from no lube, but nothing like you have.. What are you using for lube?

No doubt, I'd stick with an OEM cable.

I'm on the original cable with 20,000 miles, mid adjuster adjusted out maybe 2/3's. There's easily another 10,000 miles on it.

**As a side note, its hard to get to BUT much easier to swap out IF you cut out the plastic frame to cable retainer on the inside of the left frame. The cable won't go anywhere and you can swap cables without pulling the tank, air box, etc. I cut that retainer out probably 4 years ago (again, there's really no place for the cable to go)

not exactly off the topic, is this needle tip good for lubing with the help of a syringe?
14 guage needle tip or we need less than that?
Blunt End Dispensing Needles Syringe Needle Tips 4" inch 20 Pcs 14 Gauge | eBay
or
Blunt End PP Flexible Dispensing Syringe Needle Tips 1 5" 20 Pcs 14ga to 25GA | eBay
If so, I would like to order, I have some engine oil left at home.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

With that mid section adjuster, I'd lube it before you install it so you don't have oil seeping out of there all over the back of the engine....

With as many cables as you've gone thru, you may want to check the routing of the cable. Something doesn't sound right..

If you want to post some pic's where the bad cable is currently run might help...

 

[TheRustySpork]

Right, all done. im pretty sure it was installed incorrectly last time as the lower part of the cable was laying on its side under all the wiring, maybe this caused undo stress? not sure.

anyway ive installed it how i think its suppose to go, ie the long silver metallic part now runs under the fuel injectors, in a sort of smile face shape. (Rubbish analogy i know)

i wound the lever adjuster all the way in and took up the slack using the mid adjuster. so there is 10-15mm play at the lever. God it feel so much better already !

Now the only other thing is that when the bars are turned all the way left, there is less free play? is this right? there is still some free play but not as much when compared to when the bars are all the way right or straight ahead.

i attached a picture of how i routed the new cable. its a bit hard to see whats going on.

 

[FinalImpact]

I use a syringe with very small OD teflon tube attached. With the cable free of the lever to reduce tension on the actual cable to sheath, I can slide the tube completely past the 90° elbow at the clutch lever. So I know all the oil is making inside and going down. Plus it slowly makes damp spot on the case where it drips out over time.

Point: If you can't get the lube deep in there, be sure to ALWAYS remove the cable, point it to the stars and let gravity do the work. This will take longer...

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

That's how my cable runs exactly... You should be good now.

Is that where it was worn thru or up towards the upper end?


BTW, I folded up one paper towel down to about 3" x 6".
I then stuffed it underneath the lowest part of that clutch cable (you have pictured).

When lubing, excess oil/lube tends to collect there.

I chased an oil leak before that but it was just excess cable lube.


Re the play in the cable in the lever when turning. How much difference is there?

I don't believe mines does that however, its not like its a critical, throttle cable.

If you want to snap a pic at the top end, where it enters the frame, etc, might help.

 

[TheRustySpork]

Oh brilliant no it was worn through the upper end near the lever ill as a picture of that tomorrow when i get it cleaned up.

i may start doing the paper trick also as when installing it today i noticed that the casing as a small hole in the silver bend. that is present on both the new and old cable. maybe this is to let water out or something?

ah im not to worried then, ill put a picture up tomorrow of the upper part of the routing and the old cable.

thanks

 

[odachi13]

Mine went from at the lever too, I wouldn't be suprised if it was due to the fact I had renthal bars so thats obviously changed the dynamic and how the cable is pulled when the clutch is engaged.

Kinda makes me happy my new ride has a hydraulic clutch!

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

i may start doing the paper trick also as when installing it today i noticed that the casing as a small hole in the silver bend. that is present on both the new and old cable. maybe this is to let water out or something?

thanks

I never noticed a hole down there but yes, it would let excess lube, water drain drain out of there...