Coolant!

Gary in NJ

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The system could be air locked. If you believe that the thermostat is not opening, remove the thermostat from the bike and place it in a small pot of water with a thermometer. Watch the thermometer to ensure that the thermostat opens at the set temperature (180/195...I don't know which you bought).

Once reinstalled, be sure to "burp" to cooling system to expel any trapped air.

If there isn't any coolant in your oil (or oil in your coolant) your head gasket is probably OK. It's a new head gasket, it takes a lot to blow a new one. It's the old brittle ones that let loose.
 

Cocoloco

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The system could be air locked. If you believe that the thermostat is not opening, remove the thermostat from the bike and place it in a small pot of water with a thermometer. Watch the thermometer to ensure that the thermostat opens at the set temperature (180/195...I don't know which you bought).

Once reinstalled, be sure to "burp" to cooling system to expel any trapped air.

If there isn't any coolant in your oil (or oil in your coolant) your head gasket is probably OK. It's a new head gasket, it takes a lot to blow a new one. It's the old brittle ones that let loose.
Before the rebuild i noticed my coolant has oil in it, the same thing with my engine oil looking like a chocolate milkshake

Now theres non in the coolant and also the engine oil is clear unlike before.
I purchased genuine yamaha thermostat
5sl-12410 71°c

I keep doing heat cycle when burping let it rest and top off the coolant

Replaced the old water pump with new impeller
Im still hunting for whats the reason behind all this

Ill do the hot pot to test the thermostat
 

Gary in NJ

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Have you done a flow test of the radiator itself? A radiator shop and do a volume/pressure test, but you can test it yourself to get an idea if it is clogged. Basically run a hose into the input of the radiator. After about 30-60 seconds, the flow coming out of the radiator should look the same as the flow going in. If you are getting significant back flow, the radiator is clogged.
 

Motogiro

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Heres my problem
My temp gauge went max bars
With fan running
I shut the bike off right after i parked and grabbed my phone to take a video
I dont see movement in the reservoir tank and its not getting hot
Im having doubts with the thermostat not fully opening even though its brand new


Im slowly losing interest with this bike

Im starting to think thst i blew my head gasket off again after rebuild

I really believe you need to establish whether the bike is actually overheating. If the engine block is actually overheating. There may be so much scale on the internal water jackets that there is little transfer of the heat in the the engine to the coolant.
 

Cocoloco

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Have you done a flow test of the radiator itself? A radiator shop and do a volume/pressure test, but you can test it yourself to get an idea if it is clogged. Basically run a hose into the input of the radiator. After about 30-60 seconds, the flow coming out of the radiator should look the same as the flow going in. If you are getting significant back flow, the radiator is clogged.
i dont know if there is someone doing that here. But the radiator is brand new
I really believe you need to establish whether the bike is actually overheating. If the engine block is actually overheating. There may be so much scale on the internal water jackets that there is little transfer of the heat in the the engine to the coolant.
I will try the citric acid flush next ,but i have to remove the thermostat first before flushing.
When im cruising its not overheating however when i am at slow moving traffic temperature starts to rise on the verge of overheating.
 

Motogiro

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i dont know if there is someone doing that here. But the radiator is brand new
I will try the citric acid flush next ,but i have to remove the thermostat first before flushing.
When im cruising its not overheating however when i am at slow moving traffic temperature starts to rise on the verge of overheating.
Maybe in the course of other repairs debris has gotten into the cooling pathways in the radiator. From the looks of the past repairs you may have scale buildup.
After your citric acid flush you might pull the radiator and flush it in both directions. The FZ6 is known to have very efficient cooling.
I just bought a 5 pound bag of citric acid for cleaning etc. I also have 30% vinegar (acetic acid)
 

Cocoloco

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I
Maybe in the course of other repairs debris has gotten into the cooling pathways in the radiator. From the looks of the past repairs you may have scale buildup.
After your citric acid flush you might pull the radiator and flush it in both directions. The FZ6 is known to have very efficient cooling.
I just bought a 5 pound bag of citric acid for cleaning etc. I also have 30% vinegar (acetic acid)
I was told to stay away from vinegar.
citric acid is a much better cleaner says guys from different forums.
I will use dishwashing fluid flush first then flush with citric acid after that flush several times with water.
I will remove the radiator and do what you've said flushing it both directions

I just hope no pinholes appear after flushing
I felt throttle jerking when its temp is way too hot.
If all else fails, i will buy a used genuine yamaha radiator, that chinese aluminum radiator must be badly designed
 

Cocoloco

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I did the citric acid flushing it worked for surface rust and light scaling
How ever it shocked me, theres a shit ton of scale left inside.
Is there any way to soften the scaling without dis assembly
I will isolate the block ang head for cleaning
The problem is i dont know what solution to use to soften those heavy scales
 

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Cocoloco

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There is a product sold in the US called CLR that softens calcium, lime and rust. In the future, don’t use tap water in your cooling system, only use distilled water.
Im looking for it here locally and i cant find it.
This hopefully will solve my problem,
Im planning on making a rig with external waterpump so i can pump my citric acid mix for continues flow without running the engine.
I plan on leaving it pumping overnight
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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Highly regarded in the marine world:

 

Motogiro

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There is a product sold in the US called CLR that softens calcium, lime and rust. In the future, don’t use tap water in your cooling system, only use distilled water.
We have hard water here so we have lots of calcium deposit that builds up on anything the do with our tap water,. CLR stands for Calcium,Lime,Rust.
I get a product made by ZEP called Calcium, Lime and Rust. I get it from Home Depot for $9 plus a gallon! It's the same chemical. Lime Away is the same basic chemistry but smells limey and also does a great job cleaning your wallet.

Any of this stuff is caustic so wear eye protection. The vapors can harm your lungs! Stay safe make sure you can do an eye flush even if it's just a bucket of water.
 

Cocoloco

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Highly regarded in the marine world:

If only this is available here in my country
Sadly its not
 

Cocoloco

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We have hard water here so we have lots of calcium deposit that builds up on anything the do with our tap water,. CLR stands for Calcium,Lime,Rust.
I get a product made by ZEP called Calcium, Lime and Rust. I get it from Home Depot for $9 plus a gallon! It's the same chemical. Lime Away is the same basic chemistry but smells limey and also does a great job cleaning your wallet.

Any of this stuff is caustic so wear eye protection. The vapors can harm your lungs! Stay safe make sure you can do an eye flush even if it's just a bucket of water.
Im looking for an alternative descaler
My question now is how do i use it effectively,
Im planning using external water pump and pump de-scaling solution just in block and head and just run the engine to warm up the solution.
 

Motogiro

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You look like your on the right track with the citric acid. Your recirculation pump idea sounds good!
 

Cocoloco

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6hrs of flushing made a lot of difference
Although its not clean as i expected but wow it does remove alot of scaling but not the rust
 

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Cocoloco

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I managed to borrow a high flow submersible water pump and repeated the process with a new mix of citric acid and hot distilled water for 30minutes each reverse and forward flow.
Unfortunately i forgot to take a picture when i finished flushing.
The insides looked cleaner unlike the first flush.
I wouldn't say this is a success because i haven't testride the bike due to weather conditions .

One thing i noticed is the aluminum inside started etching so if anyone here wanted to do this please be mindful and always neutralize it with baking soda

Heres the video of the new pump more flow and more pressure
 

Cocoloco

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Did a test on temperature while idling after burping the system with new coolant it showed good result and i see movement in my reservoir tank .
Im really happy about the result , test ride tomorrow as i need to register my bike
Heres the video:
Refilled with new coolant motorex M5.0
Rised temperature 4bars and fan turned on
Temperature dropped to 3 bars
 
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